Summer (Jul - Sept) 2024 COTM: Andrea Nguyen Quarter

This is the reporting thread for Andrea Nguyen quarter. This selection includes the following titles:

EVER-GREEN VIETNAMESE
VIETNAMESE FOOD ANY DAY
THE PHO COOKBOOK
THE BANH MI HANDBOOK
MAKING SOY MILK AND TOFU AT HOME
ASIAN TOFU
ASIAN DUMPLINGS
INTO THE VIETNAMESE KITCHEN

ever-green-vietnamese

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Andrea Nguyen’s website has a lot of recipes, tips, and ingredient information

Many of her book recipes are also published online: copy-paste the recipe title into a search engine along with her name, and a link often pops up.

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Found the xiu mai meatball recipe in The Banh Mi handbook and I’m pretty excited (though I’ll be skipping the tomato sauce — whaaaa?!)

https://www.sergetheconcierge.com/2014/08/mash-up-your-meatball-sandwich-with-xiu-mai-from-banh-mi-handbook-by-andrea-nguyen.html

(FYI @JenKalb @vinouspleasure)

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That looks good. How are you thinking to cook the meatballs if you want to avoid the tomato sauce? I agree that it sounds odd but then when I consider meatballs in tomato sauce, they usually are leaning italian. This sauce doesn’t seem to really make it into the sandwich itself.

Like patties or meatballs, stovetop probably.

I remember a different nem recipe too, but the ones I’m seeing on EYB aren’t ringing a bell.

I guess meatball banh mi is a fairly recent innovation:

“Lary from San Diego, CA, wrote asking about a meatball version called banh mi xiu mai. I was not familiar with such a thing and was befuddled by the xiu mai in the name, which suggests that the sandwich contains the popular Cantonese dumpling served at dim sum”

I’m thinking I’ll make it with the sauce. The chicken char sui banh mi looks a lot easier to tackle first, we have a good grill and access to a good Mexican bakery for bollilo rolls.

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Yes I saw this too, but the one I linked from the boom has more ingredients and seems a bit more complexly flavored.

There’s a good (and easy) chicken chat siu recipe in Vietnamese Food Any Day too.

The pickled carrot (and radish) usually delay my efforts.

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I made Tofu - Mushroom curry from EverGreen this evening. Pretty much as written although I used the suggested Marmite in lieu of MSG and I squeezed in some lime juice at the end as I had no lemongrass. All in all, very good.

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Ever-Green Vietnamese is currently on sale as an ebook for $6.99 on amazon. Just got myself a copy.

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HERBY GREEN EGG PANCAKES - Ever-Green Vietnamese

This looked like a good excuse to get some collard greens. The recipe calls for cooked greens. See the note at the end of the recipe for guidance on how much to buy. I didn’t see the note, but bought a massive bunch of collards (is there any other kind?) and cooked them all. In the note that I didn’t read, the author suggests microwaving the greens, which would be ideal for a smaller amount, but enough greens to make two cups after cooking is a lot when raw, so I opted for my 6 qt Instant Pot. Once you have your cooked greens, you chop them up (“coarsely into smallish pieces,” per the book, which means???). I chopped them how I wanted. You mix these greens with fresh herbs. She gives you options. I went with dill, shiso, and cilantro. Season with fish sauce and black pepper. I have not made the vegan fish sauce in the book yet, but I had Charity Morgan’s recipe already made and used that. Mix in salt if you think it needs it, and some cornstarch, then add eggs. The recipe calls for 6 large eggs. I used an entire carton of Just Egg, which is the equivalent of 10 small eggs. Close enough. Pan fry the pancakes, and serve with chile sauce for dipping. I didn’t make either of the recommended chile sauce recipes from the book, and just used a hot sauce I had on hand.

These were good. Not super exciting, so I’m not raring to make them again, but I would if I had a bunch of greens to use up.

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TOFU-MUSHROOM CURRY - Ever-Green Vietnamese

Made this mostly as written, with a couple tweaks. The recipe has you pan-fry the tofu, but I deep-fried it. I just feel it’s easier and gives a better result. For the sauce, the first step is sauté onion “for about 5 minutes, until richly browned”. WTF? We all know onion will not “richly brown” in 5 minutes. I did cook them longer, until they had quite a bit of color in them, as that is the source of a lot of the flavor of this curry. You then add ginger, lemongrass, curry powder, cayenne, and MSG. I did use the MSG here, it was a small amount. I used more curry powder than called for, and more cayenne. The recipe calls for 2 teaspoons of former and 1/8 teaspoon of the latter, which is just such a small amount, I couldn’t. You then add grated tomato, mushrooms, and salt. You are to cook covered for 5 minutes, during which time, the recipe says, the mixture will condense to half its original volume. While covered? I mean, the mushrooms shrink down, as mushrooms do, but the sauce is not reducing here. You then add 1 cup of your coconut milk, and put the lid back on the pot and continue to cook. Then the tofu and some water go in, and you simmer uncovered briefly. The rest of the coconut milk goes in as the curry comes off the heat. Adjust the seasoning. You are to add water if the flavors are too strong. I cannot fathom the flavors being too strong if you made this with the amount of seasoning called for, and they weren’t too strong with the upped amounts I used. Serve garnished with cilantro.

We liked this. It is a very mild, mellow sort of curry, even with increased curry powder and cayenne. But if you browned the onions (and maybe added the MSG) it has a certain richness to it. I feel this recipe was somewhat sloppily written, which I don’t think I have ever said about a Grace Young recipe before, and wouldn’t have expected to ever say. But the results were good.

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What curry powder did you use? I’m always surprised by the variance. (Not sure if she recommends one, my book isn’t near me atm)

I have the book right next to me in the office. She says Madras-style curry powder or a combo of ground coriander, garam masala, and ground turmeric. I used a hot curry blend instead that I get from a local market.

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I used Penzey’s majarajah curry powder, which is not the Madras curry powder called for, and is mild, heat-wise, though very aromatic. I upped the red chile to compensate.

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Who is grace young or did u mean Andrea Nguyen? I wonder if we can ask her questions about the recipes (like your onion observation)?

I meant Andrea Nguyen. Grace Young is a different author altogether, albeit also one where I have come to expect well-written recipes.

I have in the past over IG – she replied

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I have too, over twitter, and she was wonderful!

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TIBETAN BEEF AND SICHUAN PEPPERCORN DUMPLINGS(SHA MOMO). Asian Dumplings p. 57
SPICY ROASTED TOMATO SAUCE p. 218
BASIC DUMPLING DOUGH p. 22

This was a bit of a project, but a delicious one. Dough and filling came together quickly, and the only labour-intensive part was the rolling out and crimping. Both sauce and filling are simply spiced with garlic, ginger and Sichuan peppercorns. I used last summer’s frozen tomatoes and peppers, so instead of broiling, I just brought to a boil and put through a food mill as my mother can’t have seeds. Dumplings were very juicy—I used medium ground beef, and very flavourful. Would love to make again but I need to lie down. Ate too many! Would be much quicker with bought wrappers and I may do that another time.

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I’ve been wanting to make more from this book. I agree the dumpling dough comes together easily, and it’s reasonably easy to work with. That was the first time I’d used fresh, homemade dough rather than store-bought wrappers.

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