VEGETARIAN KIMCHI - Maangchi’s Big Book of Korean Cooking, p. 118
I have never sought out vegan recipes for kimchi, because usually the only thing keeping a recipe from being vegan is fish sauce, and vegan fish sauce is a thing you can make or buy. My go-to recipe has been the one from Edward Lee in Smoke & Pickles. This recipe looks to be based of the bite-size kimchi recipe on p. 120. I always cut my cabbage smaller then the wedges some recipes recommend, because I ferment in quart jars and it packs better that way. So I was glad to see this recipe already geared for a finer cut.
The process was familiar. Cut up some cabbage and salt it, let stand for a couple hours. Meanwhile, make what Edward Lee calls the “guts”. Kind of a roux-like mixture of sweet rice flour, stock, and sugar, that is heated to thicken, then blended with a little more stock, sugar, and salt, plus garlic, ginger, and onion to make a paste. To this paste, you add the gochugaru and some garlic chives and matchsticks of daikon and carrot. The cabbage, which by this point has been drained and rinsed, is then mixed in. The kimchi is then packed into jars. The recipe says you can serve it right away (no, don’t) or let it ferment. She suggests 1-2 days at room temperature or 2 weeks in the fridge. Because I like my kimchi, shall we say, well-fermented, I went a tad heavy on the salt, and left it at room temp for 10 days, before moving it to the fridge.
When I finally dove in, the kimchi was nice and tangy. I used some to make the tomato and kimchi pasta salad in Hetty Lui McKinnon’s new book, Linger. It was great in that, and on its own. Comparing to the Edward Lee recipe that has been my favorite for several years now, this one had much less of the “guts” rice flour paste. The paste had similar amounts of onion, etc, but less rice flour. I think that is an improvement, and it was a less goopy kimchi. Going forward I will probably adapt this recipe to use a vegan fish sauce. I kind of missed that element, although the kimchi is delicious without it. All in all, a winner for my first recipe from this book.