I agree about Urola’s torrija (pain perdu) with ice cream, if still on the menu.
The downstairs pintxos menu changes according to season, so I would go early for pre-lunch pintxos at the bar (it very firmly closes at 3:15–found that out very recently) and order whatever special, seasonal pintxos are on the chalkboard menu. Every season the specials are different.
Downstairs there are a few tables but they get taken very quickly, so again, go early. Urola opens at 12 pm for lunch, closes strictly at 3:15 then reopens at 7 and closes at 11:15 pm. It’s one of the bars in the Old Quarter that does still take an afternoon break, thankfully.
Urola is now closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Bar Néstor, yes, is renowned for its Basque rib steak but there was originally only one “official” table for sit-down dining inside, the mythic table 19 (it has a plaque above it) at the end, but they added a few small high tables to deal with the crowd. Over the years it’s developed somewhat of a cult status.
It’s known for 3 items:
txuleta or Basque rib steak, its tomato salad (the finest tomatoes, Jaén olive oil, a touch of vinegar and Maldon salt) and its tortilla. Also one can enjoy the fried green Gernika peppers, a cheese platter or a platter of Iberian charcuterie (ibéricos).
A slice of that famous tortilla is also becoming far more difficult to obtain if one doesn’t stand in line with dozens of others in front of the bar long before it opens to get yourselves on the list.
In the summer people are now standing in line at 11 am.
The large tortilla is divided into 16 or so slices (as was the case with ours) and everyone wants one!. And even if you get there early before opening, the tortilla may be “sold out” that day. So if that happens, try the next day.
And remember that they make only two tortillas a day, one coming out at 1 and the other at 8 pm.
But the original Antonio Bar is also known for its superb tortilla, using 28 eggs and 3 kilos of potatoes. They make 3 in the morning and 2 in the afternoon.
I didn’t mention the obvious avant-garde La Cuchara de San Telmo or Borda Berri in the Old Quarter because they have lately become so very tourist soaked, with at the former, standing room only, spilling outside the bar, which might be uncomfortable for your parents. But certainly, they’re worth a visit.
But the bars of the Old Quarter, increasingly filled with visitors and fewer locals, aren´t the only ones worthy of a visit.
In the Gros quarter:
Bodega Donostiarra on both sides of Peña y Goñi (the newer annex is more relaxed and attracts more locals–order the Indurain or the Completo), Bergara Bar (order the txalupa) and the new Bar Manojo
In the center: the bar at Narru (1 Repsol sun) in the Hotel Arbaso and the traditional La Espiga
In the Antiguo quarter: Bistrot Ondarreta (just terrific and well priced with a strong French influence and where chefs meet up on their nights off) and Kapela
About Ganbara, if you want to visit comfortably, make a reservation for the dining room. To do pintxos at the bar, you’ll need to be at the door at 12:15 at least for its 12;30 opening or at 6:45 for its 7 pm opening. Once the bar area is filled, would be diners are turned away until there is an opening at the bar. Its signature pintxo: tartaleta de txangurro (spider crab).
Closed Sun-Mon.
Pintxos bars are opening earlier in San Sebastián to accommodate the hugely growing international crowd.
By the way the bars that receive the highest honor, the banderilla de oro, from the Instituto del Pintxo: Antonio Bar, Bergara, Borda Berri, Ganbara, Urola
Two invaluable online pintxos bar guides:
Download the app.
For a sweet treat, there’s the now legendary cheese cake at La Viña in the Old Quarter and for a pantxineta, a typical Basque pastry, try it at the Otaegui pastry shop ,the oldest in Donostia, from 1886, and where pantxineta was invented.
While the La Bretxa indoor market is under renovation, head to the Mercado de San Martin in the center, both floors, for a walk around to see the wonderful displays of Basque produce, meats, fish, a real visual treat.
Madrid:
I also like Taberna Laredo in the Retiro district, the city’s best neighborhood now for casual dining, but there are so many more: La Catapa, La Castela, Castelados, La Montería, La Monte, Salino, La Raquetista, Taberna y Media, Marcano. This is the ´hood where. dedicated, ín the know, madrileño food lovers go to dine. That said, all of these neo tabernas or neo tascas or gastrobars get extremely crowded on Thursdays (the new Friday or “juernes”), Fridays and Saturdays and many are closed on Sundays.
