Paris 12e - two days without romance ?

Hello everyone
Have two nights in Paris in October - a Saturday and a Sunday. Staying in the 12th arr - Boulevard de Picpus - with a friend who is a decided anti foodie and likely to faint at anywhere expensive.

That said, i don’t want to eat rubbish all weekend So anywhere for breakfast ( even a decent boulangerie or patisserie where we can pick something up on the go ) or dinner in that area ?
Anglophile ( not likely to be easy in October, I accept ) without being chock full of Americans would be great. Even if it is a small pizza place recommendation, I would be grateful - especially if they are open on Sunday evening. Any streets with a bar or two we could wander into for a beer ? Any ‘craft’ beer places walking distance from that area ?

During the day time we will likely be Versailles, Jeu du Palme/Orsay, Pompidou. Any lunch places which are reasonably priced in these areas ?

Cuisines my friend would most like

  • simple French bistrot
  • pizza

Apologies this isn’t a typical Onion request but I still haven’t recovered my reputation after I took him to a nice restaurant in Berlin and he declared the menu too short (!) and that there was ‘nothing’ he could eat.
Thanks in advance and happy to provide greater clarity if need be :slight_smile:

I don’t know if it is too “too” for your friend, but a favorite of ours is Fulgurance on rue Alexandre Dumas, one stop north of Nation. They feature a visiting chef who changes several times a year, definitely too foody for your friend, BUT across the street they have a wine bar with good plates at decent prices. Excellent quality and welcome. You might check it out first…

Also, you shouldn’t miss the Aligre market, great on Sundays. (closed Mondays) Inside the covered market there are two super cheese shops, charcuterie, and prepared foods. Several decent bistrots beside the market. Very good bread on Faubourg St. Antroine just where the market ends. Like warm baguettes…

In the Jeu du Palme/Orsay area: When my sister and I stayed on Quai Voltaire we ate twice at La Fregate, good food, reasonably priced.

In the Pompidou area: Not to far away is Frenchie To Go where we had an excellent lunch. And also Rue Montorgueil, with the market, lots of food stalls and restaurants.

Le Frigate is indeed a good option. You can make a lunch out of starters if you don’t want a full meal. Their onion soup is quite good.
Montorguell is wonderful fun. There is a cheese shop with a cart outside the door that sells cheese plates, usually 4 kinds, for under 10€, almost free, and the quality is very good. Stohrer’s bakery for those with a sweet tooth, oh yes! Know in advance that the fruit seller is notoriously cranky. It’s him, not you!

I think if your friend is not a foodie, probably he wants choice, food street or market will be a good way, as you choose together a place!

You haven’t mentioned Korean or Japanese, rue Saint-Anne, near to Jeu du Palme is good option if you like these cuisines.

Around Pompidou, there is Breizh Café, I have never heard people disliked pancakes. The Chinese restaurant, Autour du Yangtse has a big menu, decent meal. Pirouette, closest to Pompidou, has a lunch menu of 26€ entry-plate-riz au lait.

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My friend said Enza & Familglia Pizze vino is a good pizza place in 1th near Pompidou.

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Oh, I wanted to try Fulgurances when I was in Paris last year but couldn’t get over that way as i was only in town for one night. What is going on there at the moment and when is the next change due ? :slight_smile:
A gentle introduction via the wine bar sounds like a plan !

We actually both enjoy Japanese and i think he would be open to Korean too - or I will kill him !
Any specific recs ?

We also both like Lebanese/ Greek/ south mediterranean food - does that open up any other options ?

Perfect !
On another note entirely …anywhere else like Cravan ( which you kindly recommended last year ) near to where I am staying ?
Or near any of the places we will be going ?

Also in 12e, check out Caves de Prague wine bar.

Do you mind sharing the name of that Berlin restaurant? :thinking:

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Of course
It was

I see that people on TA are still complaining about small menu :slight_smile:

Actually a place my friend loved in Berlin was

in case that helps with Paris recs !

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I see! Alpenstueck has no “meat”, many vegetables, some cheese and a fish, a veal and a chicken dish. I don’t think it would appeal to my hubby too. LOL.

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Some recommendations on Japanese and Chinese. Koreans I like are not close to your districts, unfortunately.

Japanese Izakaya

Ramen - very good if you like noodles with fish or seafood.


Boulangerie Bo - 85 bis Rue de Charenton, 12e is not to be missed. Famous for their dark levain bread and overcook croissant.

Hello naf

Just a quick thank you for your tips and advice. La Fregate was our lifeline in the Museums district - very reasonable and simple food done well. Also went to Izakaya Isse for lunch before we flew back. This was the first proper choice I had made for the weekend. Really liked the room ( my find said it was
a very me kind of place :slight_smile: ) but think I ordered badly. Went for a bento box and chose tempura. Not only was this more expensive you got less food that way ( rice inside the box whereas it wasn’t for cheaper boxes ) plus other boxes interluded tempura in one of the side compartments :frowning: . So, loved the place but disappointed overall with the food. Would return but order differently next time.
In other posts I see Cravan got an award in one of the lists you posted - was upset not be in that district and able to visit at night !
thanks again

Thanks for the update! As for Izakaya Isse, I think bento box is available only for lunch, I don’t know if you can order dishes like at dinner time.

You seem to be visiting Paris often, so maybe a next time very soon!