SALMON IN LUXURIOUS GREEN SESAME PIPIAN - Mexican Everyday pp. 235-237
Salmón en pipián verde de ajonjolí
I had made Bayless’s Roasted Tomatillo Salsa a few days ago, so I used some of it to make this dish tonight, as it starts with a tomatillo salsa (bought or prepared) as the base. You are to puree the salsa (mine was already there) and then fry it to reduce to a paste like consistency. Then add chicken broth (I used BTB lobster base and water) and tahini. Let reduce, balance with salt and sugar, and then poach salmon fillets for about 5-6 minutes. There are some peas that are supposed to be added at some point. I skipped that.
I agree that the dish does need some sugar. He says it is for the tartness of the tomatillos, but for me it was to counter the bitterness of the tahini. Using the BTB, I found I didn’t really need to add any salt. That being said, despite being described as a “lively quartet” (versus mole’s “exuberant symphony orchestra”), I thought the sauce needed more complexity upon tasting (see, for example, his pipian rojo). To that end, I added some pepper, cayenne (the chiles in my salsa were mild, mild poblanos), allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. I let that simmer for a bit before adding the salmon. My fillets were about an inch thick, so they took about 8 minutes altogether.
We had this with corn tortillas and some garnishes - tomato, jalapenos, scallions, radish, cilantro, and limes. With the additional spicing it was very good, but the salmon overwhelmed it a bit. I think it needs a milder companion, maybe halibut, or grilled eggplant/zucchini/fresh cheese. Something that doesn’t distract from the delicate flavors in the sauce. Do have it with good tortillas and build your bites favoring the sauce over other items (which I remembered a little too late).
Verdict - good, but needs some doctoring (for my tastes).
