I thought they might have been! 
I hope they satisfied.
I did a very similar trip to you about 20 years ago – starting in (oops, Florence, then on to) Ischia and ending in Naples, where my favorite things were summer strawberries sold by street vendors. So sweet! Glad you’re having a nice time.
Those/these trips really stick with you and add so much to your life.
I’m going to go out on a limb and reassure you that what you’re being served at bars is commercially procured and made with oil not lard.
The original homemade recipe might be lard, but I doubt commercial production is still using it. The Italian-origin ones at Zabar’s and Whole Foods I saw used a mix of oils.
well the type I am referencing - often with almonds and LARGE (not something you would eat at one sitting) and smaller using the same ingredient mix - are sold commercially in Naples - I dont know about elsewhere - at artisana shops in the market districts, on Via Toledo (the main shopping street) etc. Look and you shall find, avoiding should be easier if packaged products with ingredient labels are bought. I think at this point the use of strutto/sugna is probably proudly advertised in the shops that use it.
Re the PastryShop, I was talking about Attanasio, which is toward the Railroad Station and is famous for its sfogliatelli particularly the frolla type. Here’s an article about thetypes with some recommendations, I can also attest to the quality at Scaturchio and Pintauro. https://devourtours.com/blog/best-sfogliatelle-in-naples/ Other sources recommend Mary and Gambrinus, I was thumbs down on those when tried. Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle (havent tried) is in your general area too and might also fill a pastry yen.
I was really looking forward to trying sfoglietelle, and they have them at the breakfast bar at the hotel. But I took one bite and the lard flavor was overwhelming. But my strong guess is that I will be able to tell by the smell of a place that specializes in them whether I can eat them or not. So maybe I will give one of these a try.
Speaking of which, I agree with you that most of the commercial taralli are lard free.
Drugstore looks amazing and is only a minute walk from my hotel!! My problem will be not overweighing down my suitcase! Thank you, will definitely go.
Dinner last night at Osteria da Carmela, which is very close to Dante and the Archeological Museum (and my hotel). Had a 7:45 reservation but the place was hopping and I had to wait 30 minutes. Many people were turned away.
It’s a small place, only 9 or 10 tables, and only one very kind and overworked waiter. He still managed to make me feel very welcome. I started with fried zucchini blossoms, one of my favorite things. These were fine, but too heavy on the breading (I am going to say some cornmeal was involved) for me to totally love them.
Then got the spaghetti con vongole. Maybe an unadventurous choice, but one of my very favorites. And it was perfect.
I honestly just wanted another order of the pasta, but held back. Instead of a secondi I went straight to dessert. He offered 3: panna cotta, cassata, and something else. I picked the cassata and a glass of cognac. I’ve only ever had a strawberry version of this that a local friend (met via chowhound) makes, and it is incredible. Whatever I got was incredible too (beyond fantastic), but I’m wondering if somehow it was tiramisu? Every description I have read (I was obsessed with it) says these cakes have candied fruit, and that was no where to be seen. But he did describe it as cake, cream, and chocolate, and that was what it was. Kind of hard to tell from the picture, but if you have any input I would love to hear it.
Anyway, aside from the just ok zucchini blossoms, I would highly recommend this spot. But reserve! https://www.osteriadacarmela.it/en/page/47/
when you get home you can read up on the complicated history of cassata. Who knew? but here is one “explanation” of neapolitan cassata. https://grancaffegambrinus.com/en/sicilian-cassata-vs-neapolitan-cassata-the-challenge-of-christmas
I did not realize that the sfogliatelle ricca is necessarily made with lard. That must have been very upsetting for you. The frolla (ordinary pastry) version may or may not be - a lot of the recipes online use butter. I suppose it would be possible to ask in a pastry shop for recommendations without lard. Or stick with stuff like baba (very good in naples) that does not raise this issue.
Fascinating. I am definitely pro the Neapolitan version.
Not upsetting but a little bit of a bummer. I was also unaware that lard was a possibility, but taking a bite I could tell something was going on. Oh well, I’m having a wonderful time!
Seen this morning on my walk to the Archeological Museum:
Bummer about the zuke blossoms, which are an absolute favorite antipasto of mines as well. Ideally the batter is as light and crisp as tempura. Pasta look great, tho.
Oh this is an idyllic report! Thank you!
I’ve eaten buckets of Taralli, mostly in Puglia, Basilicata, and Sicily. Never seen any with lard. Live and learn??
I was hesitant once about eating foods with my hands but now, even if I am the lone diner chopming on hand held carabineri, razor clams, snails, lobster parts, and yes, rabbit, I usually forgo the utensils and just dive in. I always carry a cloth napkin in my purse. Just in case!
Exactly! Like tempura, otherwise why not use some less delicate vegetable.
Love the idea of carrying a cloth napkin! I carry hand cleansers, but you really still need something to dry it off with.
I had a great day yesterday, although not much to report foodwise. I had a ticket to see Carmen at the Opera House at 5. I knew my stomach would be grumbling by the end (it was over 3 hours long, and I usually skip lunch), so instead of dinner I ate a late lunch. Spent the morning at the Archeological Museum (sorry if I’m repeating myself), and then wandered through the Spanish Quarter. Being Sunday, it was packed. I kept going until I found a somewhat calmer spot where diners looked happy. I lucked out. A small menu, and another unadventurous but delicious meal: bruschetta and then pasta with clams (I couldn’t help myself: I promise not to order it again today). I see this place is getting slammed on TA, but my meal was really good, and my server was understanding and helpful.
Then strolled to the opera house, and saw lots of fun things and people, and found that Italians are happy to let you take their picture. Gelato for dinner as I walked back to the hotel. Happy happy.
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That dog has award winning balance!
Taralli! My mother used to love them.
Sfogliatella is my favorite Italian pastry! I hope you find one that’s not too lard-y!
As my son would say, that dog has excellent parkour skills!
