thats a great neighborhood! dark streets at night as I recall. I was there alone for a couple of days on my first visit and it felt safe though. Vomero is more recently built and middle class, not a whole lot of interest up there other than a great museum, views and some restos - but there are plenty of all of those down below, too… the following is what I sent to daughter Sue
we are happy that some of the simple places we liked are still favored Cantina di Via Sapienza just downhill from the archeological museum, hostaria toledo in the spanish quarter, and alla chitarra, a very simple place I went to alone on the first trip there and had grilled provola (they offer it at cantina di via sapienza too, which has a more extensive menu with lots of delicious vegetable dishes - dont think they take reservations at cantina via sapienza, it fills up pretty fast with people from the medical faculty at lunchttime. I liked the pizza at Sorbillo on Via Tribunali a lot, but there are plenty of other recommended places, no reason to stand in line.
there is a lot to see in Naples, including the historic center, the archeological museum (after pompeii may be best), pompeii, herculaneum (very different from pompeii and equally worth visiting). the station area is not so appealing. The Capodimonte museum is wonderful and not croweded BUT I think a lot of their best stuff is up in Paris at the Louvre now so check to avoid disappointment,
the Slowfood resto Viva Lo Re in Ercolano is very good if you visit Herculaneum.
I looked up about the Capodimonte situation - it was not conclusive. The paris exhibition is over but Im not sure all the great stuff that went there is back on display from recent reports. If the paintings are there, its one of the great (and uncrowded) museum experiences in Europe. If not…
Now in Naples. Had a great but exhausting time getting a taste of the city. Will write some stuff up in the morning, but wanted to toss in a few more Ischia pictures. I really loved the breakfast- such nice fruit and baked goods. I chose the plum loaf today - looked very plain but was tender and delicious, along with a perfect pear and a tangerine.
I love the fruit selection! I’ve always wanted to try Sicilian lemons and make limoncello at home. And I just made peperonata without eggplant with a huge haul of peppers from the farmers market.
They’re everywhere here! But I am now a bit nervous about eating them. Will buy when I can read the label in English. But I had no idea they were this big a deal.
Yesterday wasn’t an exciting day foodwise. Got to Naples mid afternoon, and just wanted to check things out in a lazy way. Meandered around the very touristy historic center, had a beer (with free snacks! Little spinach and cheese puffs). Decided to have an early evening, and wanted pizza (linguafood’s suggestion really stuck with me). I had forgotten that places close or don’t serve food all day. Oops. But I found a spot at Piazza Dante that was open and serving, and there was good people watching. Was it a great pizza? No, but it was better than it looks (damning with faint praise here), and I was happy to have an early evening. My husband tells me there is a soccer/football match happening in town today, and to expect things to be crazy. I have a dinner reservation at a place recommended by a friend - Osteria da Carmela, and I am going to look at Jen’s suggestions. For later in the week.
Cantina via Sapienza looks wonderful, but seems to only be open at lunch? The website is glitching a bit so I’m not positive. But I’m finding lots of fun looking places.
google maps says its open 12:30-closed a couple of weekdays - best to walk by and see its closing times.
If you go Id get there early tho it does have some turnover so late would also work
We went to Il Stanzo del Gusto, then a resto in that location on our first visit to Naples I think its now called the Drugstore? - it is or was run by Mario Avallone, a well known chef and expert in the foods of the region. He offered delicious and unusual stuff and it would probably be a fine place to get some top flight things to bring home as well as any food or drink he is offering these days. I have fond recolllections of our visits there, and the friendliness of the people.
Cafe Mexico on Piazza Dante has great coffee.
When I talked about dark streets, I was remembering particularly the passage from Piazza Dante over to Via Tribunali around your hotel - it was very quiet. There is a major church right there that is impressive, it gets livelier as you head down Via Tribunali over toward the station with Sorbillio, Presidente and many ofther pizzerie and shops (I think a famous pastry shop too) and monumentlal churches.
2 Likes
ChristinaM
(Hungry in Asheville, NC (still plenty to offer tourists post Hurricane))
77
I have made them and saved this loose recipe:
1 3/4 c. flour (AP and cake flour in a 4:1 ratio)
1/3 c. good olive oil
1/3 c. Italian white wine (Kris pinot grigio)
1 tsp. sea salt
about 3/4 tsp. whole fennel, crushed in bullet blender
Preheat oven to 400F. Mix liquids, salt, and fennel and gradually stir in flour to form a soft dough. Roll by the teaspoonful into thin ropes that cross over themselves. Drop into boiling water in batches of about a dozen. When they float, remove with a slotted spoon and set on a rack to dry (ideally on the stovetop while the oven heats up). Bake on a cookie sheet covered with parchment/silpat until golden (~18-20 min.)
Maybe Leopoldo is the famous pastry shop? A good friend was here earlier this year and had very good things to say about it. I walked by one catty corner to the archeological museum yesterday (and one on Spacconapoli).
I will definitely look into the places mentioned here and very much appreciate the help.
Herculaneum this morning. Amazing. Now a well earned beer (it’s warm here, I’m finding I really want beer!).
