I will do my best to keep up with reporting on things while I’m here. In Ischia right now, and love it. Got in early yesterday. I don’t normally eat lunch, but the food on the plane was more abysmal than usual, so I decided to have something after walking around. Stopped at a little place in Ischia town called (I think) Cala Cala or Cava Cava. Only one person waiting tables/getting drinks, and only one person in the kitchen, so service was slooooooooow. I decided on a trio of bruschetta. They had 3 options (one noted as vegan). I got the one with tomato and mozzarella, ricotta, anchovy, and sun dried tomatoes, and one listed as broccoli that was definitely kale. The first 2 were delicious, but I’m not a big kale fan, and this was very bitter. I left happy.
The main reason I don’t eat lunch is that I’m never hungry for dinner, and I was a little worried. I had a 7:30 dinner reservation at Il Monastero. I made the early reservation knowing I would be tired after my flights (correct) but not thinking through the lunch thing. I’m staying at Il Monastero and it was easy. Turned out to be a wonderful, light tasting menu! It was made even more special by a huge thunderstorm happening during dinner. Being in a castle on a dark night with thunder and lightning felt like being in a horror movie, but in the best way. They have 4 separate set menus, but had no problem switching out the pasta in mine for the rabbit pasta in a different one. They suggested a local white wine and it was wonderful with everything. First came the amuse - a small ball of buffalo mozzarella with anchovy and black olive. Exactly what I wanted. First course was tuna tartare with fruit and crunchy vegetables. The vegetables come from their own garden. This was perfectly fine, and I was shocked at how well raspberries work with pickled onions, but it was the least successful course.
Next up was prawns and chickpeas. So good. The prawns were all but raw, and the chickpeas came as both a puree on the bottom and fried.
Next was citrus risotto with black squid and wild fennel. I wanted to lick the bowl, but behaved myself.
Next was pasta with rabbit sauce. Very good!
Cod with some sort of cream sauce, which sounds dull but was packed with flavor.
A trio of small desserts. One was panna cotta, which I really never like (it’s a texture thing). I tried a bite but nope. Another was something soft as wonderbread. Not a fan. But the third was a tiny chocolate tart with fig. Ho boy it was good. They then brought out a small donut with cream and a marinated cherry. Yippee!
So glad you are there! You know, we never have tasting menus in italy - but it is a good way of getting a lot of tastes! Did you regret not having second or third bites of anything? The bean/especially chickpea and seafood combo seems frequent in southern italy - its good isnt it? Your last dessert looks like a variation on the zeppole di San Giuseppe, traditionally made for St Josephs day. Yum!
vicariously looking forward to more!
I’m not normally a tasting menu person either, but that seems to be the only option. Given the whole lunch situation this meal was plenty, but yeah, in a perfect world I would have had more of some of it (the shrimp/chickpea and the risotto, and I think the rabbit). But on this occasion it really did the trick. Service was perfect too - attentive and thoughtful but not in your face. And they seated me, as a single diner, in a really nice spot with a full view of the room but in no way isolated. Exceeded my expectations.
What a fabulous meal!
Looks wonderful! Enjoy your trip, and thank you for bringing us along.
(ETA: scenery pics welcome too!)
Sitting, having a beer and enjoying a view of the castle. Thanks to @ZivBnd for explaining my snack, which I love.
A German beer glass for Peroni! A multinational snack, so to speak 
I kind of wondered about the glass/beer mismatch!
I missed that – what is it?
It’s named after its shape. I am enjoying the beer too much to remember exactly, but begins with ta (totally useless right now, but having fun). Maybe tarennelli??
Found it – Taralli.
I have eaten them, but didn’t know the name!
Kari, I dont know about your particular taralli but the taralli I most remember in naples are crumbly, made with made almonds, lard and lots of pepper and are absolutely delicious. Ive seen recipes made with olive oil as well but they are not so typical. https://www.italymagazine.com/recipe/taralli-sugna-e-pepe; https://www.sbs.com.au/food/recipe/taralli-napoletani/drtkfldw7; https://www.washingtonpost.com/recipes/taralli-napoletani-neapolitan-salty-ring-cookies/
ps in italian sugna or strutto mean lard or possibly suet.
Here is a pic the more austere but delicious fennel taralli we are eating in Brooklyn currently which I believe are boiled like bagels and you perhaps can see they are made with vegetable oil.
These aren’t crumbly, and I don’t taste the lard. If it’s in there I will know in a few hours. I’m pretty good at tasting any pork products because they take away about 24 hours from me. No fun.
If they are not crumbly Id imagine these are the “modern” version then. Just a heads up. I love the lard version but they are obviously not for everyone!
Hugely useful information for me. I will be more careful from now on. No one wants to lose a day of vacation. Thank you.
We did not run across these in restaurants in the region (normally dont get bar snacks because we are strictly wine with dinner when we travel) Id imagine that the most common version encountered, like my taralli here in NY do not have lard, because they would be more crumbly, perishable and expensive - as well as “heavy” in modern eyes. But I was really happy to find and eat them from shops/bakeries.
Not sure what’s on your itinerary, but if you’ve got the time, try Trattoria Il Focolare.
If you want to try their rabbit stew, you have to order in advance, but well worth the effort.
