So, a few days ago, some fool on eGullet was prattling on about how few–if any–fine restaurants actually cook in copper. The claim was made that clad is a better performing construction, and that no top chef would use it. A few other numbskulls chimed in, claiming never to have seen any in any fine restaurant. When I pointed out several (with photos), I was told that none of the “very best” restaurants use it any more, and that the places who do have it use it only for decor in their open kitchens, as umbrella stands, etc.
Those who know me know these’re fighting words–I will not let such buffoonery go unchallenged. The Chief Buffoon posted last year’s La Liste of the world’s top 10 (as decided by the French Tourism Ministry) and claimed only ONE used copperware. The 10 are:
Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville
El Celler de Can Roca
Auberge du Vieux Puits
Joël Robuchon (Japan)
Suspicious, I did a little Googling and Google Imaging, and guess what? SEVEN of these 10 temples of haute cuisine have photographs of their kitchens and prep areas featuring copper.
Per Se: http://nymag.com/nymetro/food/industry/features/n_10410/index1.html
Guy Savoy: http://www.nytimes.com/2015/12/12/dining/la-liste-france-worlds-50-best-restaurants.html
El Celler de Can Roca: Photo previously supplied
Kyubei: Can’t find a photo of their copper tamagoyaki, but I know they cook that prep in them.
Maison Troisgros: http://marcdelage.unblog.fr/2012/09/28/pierre-jean-et-michel-troisgros-maison-troisgros-a-roanne-france/
Joël Robuchon (Japan): http://www.robuchon.jp/joelrobuchon-en
So… for the sleuths out there… Someone can earn my eternal gratitude if they can substantiate that the remaining 3 actually use copper? They are:
Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville;
Kyo Aji: and
Oh, and I think it’d also be nice to use this thread to compile a running list, to dispel the widespread ignorance about copper’s place in the world’s best kitchens. So I’ll add another here.