Feedback on stainless sinks and other kitchen remodel choices

I covered my dining table with multiple layers of towels and then a fireproof mat (small). I had a two burner 'hot plate, MW, fridge, etc. For me far and away the biggest PITA was washing dishes in the bathtub. So I’d recommend as much disposable as possible and as little ‘real’ cooking.

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No helpful hints, but just a wish of good luck!


I know you are looking for tips, Stonesoup, but please keep your posts coming! Very helpful to me as I have never (wanted) to live thru a remodeling but the time for avoiding it was well past. Like you we have the grill (with a side burner) but think now I need an induction burner inside - as long as the electrics will allow it.

Perhaps OP can start another thread upon the ins and outs, do’s and don’t’s of the remodel?

I’m glad to pave the way for you, ElsieB, with other commenters. I don’t have a side burner on my Weber; I never used the one on my old grill and I like having two side tables on the grill, instead. But I will have a single burner induction cooktop inside, along with a microwave and my InstantPot, too.

We just got home from buying thick plastic for taped on doorways and zippers for them to keep from having to roll up every rug and cover ever piece of furniture on the first floor. Will put those up the day before demo.

I’m having a house guest show up for Easter weekend the day demo starts! He lived here for 6 mos last year, until elections were over. He will have a half bath downstairs to use at night, and our master bath, for showers since we’re gutting the hall bath, I’m looking forward to it; he’s 24 and is very bright, lots of fun and we can use the distraction.

My best advice to anyone who dreads remodels the way I do is to specify tightly applied and maintaind thick plastic barriers with zippers and to seal up everything that might be subject to dust (there’s always dust!) with plastic sheeting and tape. We have 12 built in drawers in our bedroom eaves and I took what we needed and tightly sealed up the drawer fronts with plastic and painter’s tape. Did the same with a long storage closet in our eaves upstairs, along with a wall of bookshelves up there. Saves so much dust and clean up and respiratory gunk later. I’m sealing up my basement entrance this time, too. So much dust settled there last time, but we were doing work down there so didn’t seal it. It took a long time to clean up so many things stored on shelving down there. Better to prevent all you can.

I feel your (anticipated) pain, StoneSoup. I lived through a major kitchen/dining room/ family room reno two winters ago that had my entire first floor, except the living room and laundry room, unusable. There was only one small, accessible space in the living room, and that’s where the fridge was. That was the winter of endless snowstorms and power outages, and, to make things worse, my husband was laid off from his job three days before construction began, so we were forced to share cramped spaces 24/7. We coped by doing the following: We set up a “breakfast area/living area” in a guest bedroom. We had a folding table with a coffee maker and an induction burner, and borrowed a small, dorm-size fridge that fit under the table. I stocked up on paper plates and disposable utensils, and kept a laundry basket nearby for toting dishes, pots, etc. downstairs for washing in the laundry room sink. We had a similar set-up in our partially-finished basement. That became our dinner space because there was more room for prep and clutter there. The biggest obstacle was not having running water down there. But we set up the microwave as well as another single burner. Oh, I found the bags of microwaveable veggies really helpful – the ones they sell in the produce department, fresh, not frozen, where you pop the whole bag in the microwave.

I don’t envy you, but rest assured, the end result will be worth it.

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Okay, so back to the other choices. I got a very good deal on white delicatus granite, but they will polish, but not seal. I’ve used Porous Plus on my bathroom marble and unglazed porcelain, but am torn between what seem to be two choices right now for the kitchen: StoneTech BulletProof and Dry Treat Stainproof or Stainproof Plus.

In either case, I’d apply myself with protection from fumes. Leaning toward Dry Treat, though the warranty is void if you don’t use a professional applicator person.

Experiences with granite sealers, especially Dry Treat?

I just saw this thread and it reminded me of all my experiences doing my kitchen remodel!

I used StoneTech BulletProof for my marble backsplash. It worked perfectly. When I asked around I got pretty consistent feedback from installers that BulletProof is very high quality. If you use a water-based sealer like BulletProof, most of the issues with poor sealing have to do with the way you apply it (especially, make sure you don’t overapply and make sure you don’t leave residual sealer on the stone to let dry). And also, do a small test before applying it everywhere, just in case you have the 1-2 types of granite that might not work well with your particular sealer.

I don’t think there is a consensus opinion on whether water-based sealers (like BulletProof) or impregnating sealers (like StainProof Plus) are better.

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I’ve been using 511 Porous Plus on my bathroom marble, maybe should switch to one of those? Dry Treat does seem to penetrate better, and maybe need repeat applications less often. I’m just shy of ordering it… planning to apply it as DIY.

I agree with catholiver. Washing dishes is a problem, so we used disposable too.

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I think I mentioned earlier (maybe in another thread?) I loaded up on disposable dishes at Tuesday Morning, and paper napkins (we only use cloth ones). Definitely do not want to try to wash dishes in my small powder room sink downstairs! I can’t stand plastic ware for eating, but that’s easy to handle, I think. We also have an outdoor shower that’s turned off due to freezing temps, but may be able to use that to rinse out something large, like the InstantPot liner or a lasagna pan.

I don’t normally mind eating out, but keeping food histamine levels predictable and under control is still something of a concern for me, the only reason I’m so focused on prepping and deep freezing and cooking what I can from very fresh ingredients and non red tomato sauce, frex, for lasagna.

We’ll lay in a big supply of macadamia nuts from Costco, the Official House Snack here, and Armenian string cheeses, and very fresh mozzarella, etc.

Okay, do we know which granites are a problem? I have samples here, multiples, of the granite I’m using that I can test on, though not polished yet.

It’s probably easiest to just test. I think you can look up the water absorption rate of your granite, which should give some kind of clue. If it is comparatively high that may make it harder to seal.

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Thanks, I checked. Seems like white delicatus is pretty impervious, as granites go. Maybe I’ll see what sealer the stone place uses, or use BulletProof, since one can add Dry Treat to it, but not BulletProof over Dry Treat.

Turns out they do seal. Don’t offer Dry Treat. I can do it later, I’m used to sealing my bathroom marble every six months. Maybe will consider Dry Treat there next time.

Stuff’s getting real; my kitchen is empty except for coffee pot, we removed the cabinet doors and shelves, sealing up for dust prevention and masonite going down on the floors tommorrow, demolition to be done on Saturday, plumber arrives Monday a.m. I visited my cabinets and they’re even better than i’d hoped, especially the lowers, where I was worried a bit about stain shading.

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Kitchen lighting, anyone? We have hanging from the rafters, 6 6" recessed cans retrofitted with LEDs from Feit, warm white, that we love the brightness and warmth of. 4" cans are more attractive, but don’t throw as broad an area of light. I’m in an 8.5’ wide kitchen, so that wouldn’t be much of an issue, but the new recessed lighting in the living room is 4" LED cans and the light is pretty specific to a narrow area, more so, maybe, due to sitting so high up inside the can.

If I choose 4", would lowering the bulbs and using 8 instead of 6 give me the brightness and area of lighting I want? The length of the room is 12’ and it would be 4 per side, just a few feet between the two rows?

Anyone dealt with this issue successfully already?

I"m a big fan of lamps on counter tops. (By lamps I mean the kind with a base and a shade). Before you say that’s just weird or worse, give it a try with a couple of cheap small lamps. The glow from lamps is beautiful and lamps provide plenty of task lighting. I’m talking about lamps as a layer of lighting with your overhead/ambient. Yes the shades get grungy and have to be replaced but so what? That’s part of the fun. I have four lamps in a kitchen that’s 15x12. It’s pretty! The vent-a-hood task lights illuminate the stove top and a pendant gives a boost over the sink. I think the lighting people call this ‘layering’ the light. They usually counsel against relying totally on overhead light, which can be slightly depressing to some people (and I’m one of them). Think of lamps as a replacement for strings of LEDs under your cabinets (or those CFL bar lights of yesteryear).


Thanks for your reply, I love the warmth of layered lighting everywhere, and I’m including it in the kitchen with undercounter puck lights and warm LED tape inside two glass front display cabinets. I have such a small kitchen and have managed to squeeze about 13’ total of counterspace into it, the largest two areas just over 5’ each. I want everything uncluttered when it comes to countertops, and designed my storage so even cooking utensils in a crock will not be on display. Only a toaster oven and some fruit and veg and a small TV will be on display, mostly, in addition to colored glass art or drinking glasses in the two display cabinets.

I’m really torn between the sizing of 4" vs. wider area lighting from 6" cans… 4" are prettier, wondering if I bump it up from 6 total to two rows of 4 4" ones with an 8’ ceiling, that will do, mostly.

here’s a thought…

have many rows of fixtures installed on separate circuits so you can make it as bright or less bright as you want. there’s no reason it has to be one-switch-all-or-nothing.

you could even mix warm and icy white bulbs circuits . . .

a pricey but ultra-flex option would be low voltage switching - that would allow you to modify/change which bulb/fixture/placement comes on/off with multiple circuits. you won’t need a lighting engineer to ‘predict’ how it works out - put in in, change as needed.

My neighbor, who is doing demolition, sheetrocking/construction for me is actually a licensed electrician on big commercial and residential NYC jobs. I’m just not sure my 8.5’ x 12’ galley requires more than three types of lighting. I loved the warm white LEDs we had and everything in my house is on dimmers, except for a CFL shower light. The pucks on each side have their own switches, the LED tape lights inside cabinets will have their own, and the ceiling lights will all be on one switch.

I do wonder if having 4 4" on each side would mitigate the spread issues and/or if I should get them with adjustable trim?

“Food is a pretty good prism through which to view humanity.”

― Jonathan Gold