Cape Cod 2020

Ooh, that looks good. Thanks for the review!

Was the bluefish smoked?? That’s how we make ours.

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How fantastic he waited on that line!!! We tried one morning en route to the beach and I abandoned that plan quickly!

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Yes, smoked. We don’t have easy access to bluefish, smoked or otherwise, where I live in Northern Mass. I have seen bluefish sold more on the Cape and Islands. Also up on Cape Ann.

Homemade pate is much better but first you need the bluefish. I’ll bet your version rocks!


It’s the only way we cook bluefish when we catch it. Smoke it. The pate is easy to make in a food processor. Shallots, cream cheese, smoked blue and lemon juice. We put a rub on the fish before putting it in the smoker. It vacuum seals and freezes quite well. We make fish cakes and chowder with it, too.


Time for a taste of lobster. Curbside pickup is how we’re “dining out” on our late summer vacation.

Last night we decided to pick up from Mac’s Chatham for a second time both because grilled lobster is on the menu and the restaurant is convenient to our rental.


Lobsters were cooked to perfection. Even though the menu says that lobster dinner includes corn and a choice of (boiled) red potatoes or side salad, the person taking our order offered the additional options of garlic fries or onion rings, so we ordered one dinner with the excellent fries and one with rings. Because vacation. Italian bubbles to sip, which we brought from home.

These were some big crustaceans! We’re as sure as we can be without weighing the lobsters that we received an upgrade. We saved enough shelled lobster for a second dinner. Thinking maybe a spicy pasta.

Would do a repeat of this on another trip, except I would try to convince my husband that sides should be garlic fries and green salad.

Onion rings were okay, in what seemed to be a seasoned batter? (Woodmans on Cape Ann is our gold standard for rings.) The corn we ate only because we needed a non-fried vegetable. Ha.

We also noticed that lobsters seem to taste sweeter here, similar to Martha’s Vineyard, as opposed to the more mineral flavor profile we’re used to up in Cape Ann and Maine.


I also could have been Jimmy’s Hideway, a wonderful little vintage-Provincetown place. I had an excellent cod with kale, chouriço and broth over rice last summer. and my husband had a simple but perfect plate of fried local haddock and chips. We sat at the bar and met some really fun people. We look forward to returning when we are traveling again. It might be a little too small for comfortable dining in, though.


Soft shell lobsters taste a bit sweeter than hard shells. Matter of preference . I don’t know why restaurants don’t serve very good onion rings when they’re so easy to make. Maybe they use frozen ones when a KISS route is all that’s required.
You won’t be leaving the Cape hungry, though.

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What stands out in memory was its rustic decor, sea dunes and sea views and also The Fireplace.

It was like a detached "rustic stone & wood chalet " …

Very amazingly extraordinary and the fireplace was just so wonderful as it was in early September and quite chilly that evening …

It may of been sold and name changed …


Thursday was warm and sunny, much less windy. Stayed in Wellfleet, Mayo beach for the morning. We considered Mac’s on the pier but the line was long so went to PJ’s on Rte 6.
Sat in the patio, very clean and good service. Split a clam roll and fish & chips. Both very good. The clams were crispy crisp with small bellies, SO was very happy. I like mine a little more juicy. Fish was perfect.
(I have to stop ordering ice tea when out, its seldom good.)
Kids arrived late afternoon…finished off the pesto, meats sauce, pasta and baguette. Its good to have a full house.
Rain came in over night, lazy morning with eggs, toast and yogurt. Once it stopped we were off to Coast Guard beach where the surf was amazing and right in front of us with the tide in.
After that we walked around Fort Hill in the National Seashore. A little warmer away from the ocean breeze. We ended up back at PJ’s for a late lunch. A couple of spicy stuffed (big) clams, chowders, calamari plate, lobster roll and a fish sandwich.
All were very good, I did not try the stuffed clam but they were much enjoyed. My crab cakes were very good and I’ll have the second one for dinner tonight with salad.
Sorry…no pictures.
Kids are off to P-Town, I am hopefully for a treat from Cabot’s.


I’m loving your regular updates. Please continue to post. My three year old has talked about our cape trip daily.

Any surfers out? That was the only thing missing for my husband on the last trip. It’s usually rare to have good surf in the summer up there.

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The entire summer was unusually flat. Huge waves this week though. Lots of sharks as well :grimacing:


Thanks, we are having a good week. And lots of surfers, at least we think lots. Not many today cause it
was very rough. Tomorrow is an “astronomically high tide” so we will see what that looks like.
Here are a couple of shots from earlier this week.

And Coast Guard beach waves were twice the size today!


Race point Labor Day Sunday. (Not taken by me, but I was at herring cove that day.


It was cold today!! But quiet. Glad you’re having a good week. We ate for the first time at La Bella Vita in Orleans on Monday night. They have a nice outdoor space. We recognized our waitress from the Beacon Room. Husband ordered lobster piccata on housemade linguini - so many claws I couldn’t count them but I’m lobstered out and ordered another of their specials - pan grilled halibut with a fresh Roma tomato, whole green and black olive herby compote on lemon risotto and a side of asparagus. Their Tiramisu dessert martini was killer. It wasn’t an exactly wallet-friendly meal but the season is short and we won’t risk indoor dining. Could be the last meal out.


I’m sure it made a dent in the wallet but that’s the kind of meal that’s worth it. Lobster piccata is a new one on me. Lemon, capers, butter. How could it not be good! Atlantic halibut is an extravagant treat. Tiramisu may sound passé these days but I’d order it in a heartbeat. In for a penny, in for a pound. Cape Cod is a special place in September. We’re native New Englanders who love the Cape in the off seasons. Even in winter, the Cape has a special beauty.


30 feet from the beach!


… and if he/she wants you they will get you. The best thing to do if you’re in the water is, and it sounds difficult, is to remain calm and retreat slowly to shore as a panicked rush can trigger an attack.

A couple of years ago I was wade fishing off Galveston at 6am about one hundred yards out with the only other guy about the same distance away. I see a wake and think school of redfish but it’s a six foot bull shark. There was a bit of a pucker factor so I slowly put my my net in front of me and remained calm.

With a couple of movements and it’s 30 feet one way and a couple more more 30 feet another. They are so fast it’s a good thing they are after fish.

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That sounds great, the lobster sounds wonderful and what is “lobstered out”?
I haven’t been to La Bell Vita but did enjoy the Binnacle in its day, eclectic menu
with a comfy decor. Is LBV in the former Atlantic Grill?
With you on the outside/inside dining. I hope we have a long and warm fall.
We did not get to the Knack by the rotary in Orleans which my husband swears has the best chocolate shakes.
Maybe we’ll need a Columbus Day visit!


Yes, LBV is in the former Atlantic Grill. I vaguely remember the Binnacle but we weren’t living out here then. It is getting colder and we will not risk eating indoors, so our bit of luxury is about over…

“Food is a pretty good prism through which to view humanity.”

― Jonathan Gold