Zazzy, new Lebanese in Arlington

I had my fingers crossed that I would find a good Lebanese place in Arlington. Ever since the Lebanese Butcher’s restaurant closed (the butcher still exists), I have been perplexed at not finding a suitable replacement. With so many places to choose from and a sizable Lebanese population, you’d think it would be a snap.

Zazzy is a bit hipster. The menu says they do not fry anything, only bake and roast. Even the falafel? Oh yes, baked falafel. It’s either counter service or ordering from a QR code at the table. The menu has plenty of ‘bowls’ in it for those who get nervous when they stray from the Cava/Sweetgreen/ Mezzeh/Chipotle paradigm.

We ordered a fattoush halloumi salad. It’s expensive and comes in a big bowl probably enough for four. Though they still manage to skimp on the halloumi. This is the kind of salad that you tire of before you can finish it. The pomegranate molasses dressing is far too sweet and is composed of too much lettuce. The hit of salt from the halloumi is the only saving grace, but not enough to make a dent in the salad. The pita crisps are thin and tasteless. This salad gets a zero.

They also have a selection of flatbreads called Ousheh ,and we ordered the lahme biajine, very much a cousin to lahmajun. Menu proclaims it is “a recipe form my mama, Alia,” Except that this was very, very oily. Mama leans heavy on the oil! That bread was always going to come out far more soggy than crispy. I give this a three.

The corporate setting does not make you think of a proud mama in the kitchen. And neither does the cooking.

7 Likes

Sounds like one of the worse aspects of the Arlington food scene. I think the ethnic cafes in Arlington have held on pretty well but the hipster ones have not been as satisfying. Arlington Kabob, Lebanese Taverna and Bangkok 54’s grocery store “cafe” were still good but the Ballston area popular cafes were kind of tired.
Sad to hear that the Lebanese Butcher cafe has closed but to be honest, I have not been there in years. Falls Church proper (as opposed to 7 Corners) just fell off my radar.

Lebanese Butcher closed their restaurant years ago, so not a recent development. Still, I have very specific memories of their food that I find hard to duplicate in this area.

1 Like

My one memory of the Butcher Cafe was convincing my GF to go there with me and we were having a pretty good meal and then the bandsaw in the butcher shop kicked on and my GF looked like she was going to jump up and run out of the place.
Sadly, she chose the cafes we went to for the next couple months.
Did you know that Wednesday’s were toddler days at the Starbucks on Old Dominion?
LOL! It is funny now.

Is that a drop-off program? I could see that being popular… With the parents, not necessarily the other patrons.

Starbucks paid performers to come and do singalongs in the upstairs area so at least it was separate zone and there was no drop off, the parents had to stay.
But listening to toddler songs with our coffee was a pain.
And that was “our” coffee place.
But on the Lebanese subject, i have to say that i liked the Lebanese Taverna places in Arlington enough that i seldom went to Falls Church for Lebanese even though i had enjoyed the Lebanese Butcher in the past. Sometimes proximity to work is crucial.

Thanks for taking one for the team!

2 Likes

Steve, I’m curious about whether you’ve tried Haifa Grill, which is just over the border into Falls Church on Carlin Springs Road. It’s Palestinian, not Lebanese, but that’s an awfully fine distinction.

It’s mostly takeout (you can also eat amidst the hookah smoke upstairs) and the menu is pretty limited, but the beef shawarma on shrak bread is absolutely sublime. It’s best to order in person, not in advance, so you can give instructions to the guy assembling the sandwich to ladle on extra tahini and toum, but even the standard version is, to me, spectacular.

If I were assembling a meal of the best of American fast food right now from the restaurants within 20 minutes drive of my house, Haifa Grill would undoubtedly be on that list – along with La Tingeria, El Charrito Caminante, El Pike, Banh Mi DC Sandwich, Weenie Beenie, (forgive me) Rockland Barbecue, and (even more forgiveness) Shake Shack.

3 Likes

I went to Haifa Grill once a long time ago. So limited experience. I am certainly willing to go back based on your rec. Same for La Tingeria. Haven’t been to El Pike in years.

It’s hard for me to think of banh mi without going to Bep Viet. Got one from Captain Saigon in Eden Center recently. Very good, but on an unusual roll that was not as satisfying.

TECC and Rocklands chopped pork is in my regular rotation.

2 Likes

People’s tastes differ, of course. Toni, John Tanner, and I did a head-to-head taste test of banh mi from Bep Viet, Banh Mi DC, and Ba Le.

To Toni and me, Banh Mi DC was the clear winner. I don’t think John review declared a preference between the two, though he liked both. We all agreed that Ba Le was not as good.

In my dreams a baked falafel would taste great, but I have a very hard time believing this could be a reality.

3 Likes

I enjoyed the Special at DC banh Mi, but was disappointed in their pate and mayonnaise - not enough pate, way too much mayonnaise.

I also enjoyed the grilled pork banh mi at Mi La Cay in Wheaton

1 Like

I had forgotten about this review when my wife, son, and I ate at Zazzy this past Sunday.

We ordered different dishes than Steve did, mostly, and enjoyed the meal quite a bit, enough that we’ve talked about making it a regular stop for a quick lunch.

There was a four-dip sampler. My wife loved the labneh (which lactose-intolerent me didn’t try) and the foul (labeled “fava dip” on the menu), was a good rendition. The muhammara (walnut-pomegranate dip) was a real highlight. I love muhammara - my wife makes it often and I order it whenever I see it on restaurant menus. Zazzy’s version is top notch, very heavy on the pomegranate. But the baba ghanoush was a miss, with little or no smokiness; we left most of it.

My wife had a combo of zaatar and cheese flatbreads and loved them both; I had a bite of the zaatar and can confirm that it was an excellent version (though not at the heights of the wonderful Palestinian flatbreads at Z&Z Manouche in Rockville).

My son got the boringly named “spiced eggs and beef,” which the menu says is a new addition. This was anything but boring, with ground beef, potatoes, scrambled eggs, and onions assertively spiced with cinnamon and allspice, and surrounded with crisp toast slices. Perfect for a cold drizzly winter afternoon.

I got the same flatbread that Steve got, the ground beef and tomato, here called lahme biajine, but essentially the same as the Turkish dish better known as lahmacun. Steve gave it a 3/5, noting the limpness of the crust due to the amount of oil. I liked it quite a bit more (and the crust was fine); call it maybe a 4.25 out of 5; I suspect they have reduced the oil. I would have liked it even better if the ground meat were lamb, but that’s a quibble. Dressing it up with the side dish of tomatoes, mint, and cucumber (plus dashes of Tabasco) took it up to a solid 4.5/5.


We also shared a flatbread topped with spinach, drizzled with pomegranate molasses. This was a hit, a sweet and veggie balance to the meatiness of our other dishes. The dish is very moist, so the crust wasn’t quite as crisp as the other flatbreads, but this made for an interesting variation in textures.

There was one miss (the baba ghanoush), but all in all this was a very flavorful meal. Toni noticed that one review of Zazzy’s noted that the owner also runs restaurants in Lebanon. Toni said, “It shows.”

I do worry about the longevity of Zazzy’s. We were there for a leisurely hour and a half and there was not a single other customer the whole time (but it was mid-afternoon on a cold rainy Sunday).

7 Likes

You mention that Lebanese Butcher still exists as a butcher. It does, but it has fallen way way off from its past glory days, when their selection and customer service were superb. One Thanksgiving, they deboned a chicken and duck, and partially deboned a turkey, for free. It made the one and only turducken I’ve ever made a whole lot easier. But lately they’ve had limited selections and a sad pattern of repeated overcharging.

For our Thanksgiving Eve neighborhood potluck this year, we needed some goat and tried a different halal butcher, Safa Halal Mart on Hillsdale Avenue in Falls Church. We hadn’t been there since right after it opened, which was years ago, when they didn’t have that much yet.

Now, the butcher case is really interesting – on the bottom row alone they had cow feet, lamb feet (white), lamb feet (smoked), goat feet (smoked), goat stomach, lamb stomach, beef stomach, beef soup bones, sheep testicles (not labeled for some reason but they’re the big round white things), paya soup bones (bones from a cow’s foot), and lamb shanks.

On the top shelf, they had these really scary heads (zoom in to see) – maybe goat heads for goat head soup? – plus beef and chicken kofta and ground goat.

I need to do some research on recipes for some the more fascinating of these ingredients, but then we will be back.


3 Likes

That all looks good. I’ll go back for the spiced egg and beef.

I did not give the lahme biajine ousheh a 3/5, i simply said a 3. I was thinking 3/10… good to know about the muhammara. I make a great version home occasionally. I use a mortar and pestle, so it comes out chunkier than a food processor.

And Armenians might not be happy that you call lahmajune Turkish. Though the Lebanese and many others can stake their own claim.

2 Likes

I once mentioned to my Greek waitress on Syros that their Greek coffee reminded me a lot of Turkish coffee. The millisecond the words left my mouth I knew I had screwed up.
Needless to say, she was not happy with me.

1 Like

Wow, 3/10. We had very different experiences.

I googled it and the Armenian name would be lahmajo, so I hope no Armenians are made unhappy by my referring to Turkish lahmacun.

I’m impressed you knew there is friction over lahmacun/lahmajo. This is from Wikipedia (links removed):

“Due to the hostile nature of the relations between Armenia and Turkey, the opening of Armenian restaurants serving the food in Russia] was met by some protests. In March 2020, Kim Kardashian, an American socialite and media personality of Armenian heritage, posted a video on her Instagram saying ‘Who knows about lahmacun? This is our Armenian pizza. My dad would always put string cheese on it and then put it in the oven and get it really crispy.’ This sparked outrage among Turkish social media users, who lashed out at her for describing lahmacun as Armenian pizza.”

How silly to fight about the origins of food. All foods belong to everyone.

The head chef at Rus-Uz in Arlington (a Russian-Uzbek place) is a 22-year-old Salvadoran woman. That is as it should be.

2 Likes

I think Toni uses a mortar and pestle too. We should compare versions sometime.

ZivBnd, The phrase “but this is so much better” comes in handy in so many situations.

4 Likes

Made even more complicated that a good deal of Armenia was usurped by Turkey through a genocide, so even if it was ‘Turkish’ it might still have been Armenian…

However, it is present throughout the Levant, so I am not sure any one place can lay claim to it.

And several transliterations are used in Armenia, which as you know has its own alphabet.

1 Like