Hi all.
I have a skeppshult cast iron pan with a walnut wood handle. It feels a bit dry, and I wondering if you guys oil wood handles on pans, pots and other cookware with wood handles.
If so, what oil do you use?
Thanks
Søren
Hi all.
I have a skeppshult cast iron pan with a walnut wood handle. It feels a bit dry, and I wondering if you guys oil wood handles on pans, pots and other cookware with wood handles.
If so, what oil do you use?
Thanks
Søren
Love the wax/oil combo. Use it on my maple island, cutting boards, utensils, and virtually everything raw wood in the kitchen.
I tend to use drying oil like tung oil. The good things about tung oil is that it will dry over time, and it wonât go rancid. Once it is dried, it forms a layer that is semi-water proof.
I use either the Boos creme or mineral oil.
The old wayâif thereâs no food contactâis 1:1 of turpentine and boiled linseed.
Yes, all.
Yes. Generally mineral oil
Agree with the Pack.
White Mineral Oil is what is typically used for Food Safe Surfaces, Appliances and Stones.
I also oil my Wooden Utensils I have been using Coconut Oil on them to pretty good effect.
Have not had any problems with it going rancid and it is absorbed by the Wood easily.
Hi all.
Thanks for you replys.
I went with an oil called âboard oilâ itâs made for cutting boards and kitchen counters. Itâs safe for food contact. Itâs made on a linseed oil base.
I have used it in my cutting boards for years, and itâs great because itâs semi hardening and last long.
The result was good.
Have a nice weekend
Yeah. I was just about to say linseed is a drying oil. Glad it is working out.
Mineral oil works well and is cheap if you buy it at a drugstore (Walgreens sells it for $6 a pint). Iâve seen âfood gradeâ mineral oil on Amazon bottles labeled Butcher Block Oil, $5 for 2 oz! The Walgreens stuff is âfood -gradeââitâs sold as (among other uses) a laxative) and is perfectly safe. A lot of products are really mineral oil with a fancy name . ('Knife oil comes to mind; Iâve seen some from knife stores for $5 an ounce.) Baby Oil is the same thing with scent added, and at a much high cost per ounce. I wouldnât bother to wax after oiling. It might add shine but why put wax near high heat? All in all, anything beyond plain mineral oil is something of a rip-off.
Totally agree. Mineral oil does the job, and anything more is a waste. I got board cream. It just makes the boards stay sticky longer.
Curse you for rekindling my interest in the Pot Shop of Boston omelette pan. It has a wooden handle and is a gorgeous heavy aluminum pan. I love omelettes; so it makes total sense, right?
No doubt that white mineral oil is great for a lot of stuff.
To say anything else but mineral oil is a rip off⌠I have to disagree.
my experience is that mineral oil is really easy and fast to use with good results. But especially on cutting boards it gets washed out way too fast.
Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish - Lee Valley Tools
I use this, itâs mixed with food grade mineral oil for my wooden knife handles.
I use Boos something or other on my wooden handles ⌠when I remember.
I think there are two Boos products, Mystery Oil and Board Cream. I imagine the oil is predominantly mineral oil. The cream probably has a fair amount of beeswax. On boards or other wooden items that have very smooth, hard surfaces, the Board Cream can sit there without soaking in and therefore requires a good bit of rubbing. I have tried and like both. The oil does, as noted above, tend to wash off rather quickly, at least until the wood becomes well impregnated. Those two products did an impressive job of rejuvenating a board with a pretty good crack that is now nearly indiscernible.
I probably used some other brand of oil - that I originally got in Williams-Sonoma. I use the Boos cream on my cutting boards.
The reason 1:1 linseed/turpentine is a standard is that it almost completely permeates a handle, hardening and waterproofing the wood. The old saying goes:
Once a day for a week
Once a week for a month
Once a month for a year
Every year
Now put it in your Outlook