[Uzbekistan] Suggestions sought for 12 days in Tashkent, 2 in Bukhara, and 1 in Samarkand

My wife and I are in Tashkent on our first day of a 15-day trip to Uzbekistan, which will primarily be in Tashkent. We would love to hear suggestions of where to eat. I am very interested in not only traditional Uzbek places, but also foreign cuisines that have evolved to fit Uzbek tastes (as Chinese places, for example, do all over the world).

I am also interested, but less so, in foreign cuisines that try to be “authentic” representations of their original countries – there seem to be quite a few Italian places here, for example, that try to be authentically Italian. I would be very interested in these places if I were a Tashkent resident or an expat on a long-term stay, but for a short-term visit I am more interested in food that you can’t easily get elsewhere.

Tonight, for our first meal, we didn’t have a lot of energy and opted for Abi Doner, which is a short walk from where we are staying. It was very good, with meat sliced from a giant skewer (and strikingly inexpensive), but it was notably much simpler – just meat, bread, and rice, with no sandwiches and few sauces – than the doner places we’ve eaten at in Istanbul, Antalya, and Germany.


I wonder if Tashkent restaurants featuring foreign cuisines tend to simplify and de-spice them to fit Uzbek tastes?

While I am far from an expert in central Asian food, I do have some experience with Central Asian cuisine in the US – a couple of Uzbek meals in Brooklyn, a fabulous “pan-Central Asian” meal at Laghman Express in Brooklyn, scores and scores of Afghan and Uyghur meals (the DC area, where I live, tends to get lots of restaurants from countries with refugees from war and oppression), and one memorably bland Mongolian meal (a huge bowl of beef liver soup seasoned with, as best I could tell, only salt and maybe a dash of pepper).

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God that looks good! Did you stick in those peppers and tomatoes?

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“God that looks good! Did you stick in those peppers and tomatoes?”

Yes, and the tomatoes and a tomato sauce (qizil sous) that we also ordered.

the food in Uzbekistan is not particularly spicy and I dont recall that hot sauces are typicallly offered on the table. We saw some use of mildly hot but very flavorful red chiles as part of an onion sauce served in our guest house, Antica, in Samarkand over manti and also over some delicate egg coated fried cauliflower


there seemed to be more chile heat in restaurants in Khorezm like this bean salad at the Art Restaurant in Khiva,

or is soup at a local chaikana there

but thse were the only instances I recall. Note, iranian and afghan food are also not particularly chile hot though many spices and herbs are of course used.

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Thank you, Jen. Those are really great photos. I hope you will contribute more photos from your Uzbekistan trip.

By the way, my impression is that Uzbek food tends to be light on spices in general, not just in spices that increase the heat level, like chilies. Was that not your impression?

yes its not a particularly spicy, cuisine overall. Plenty of onions garlic grease and often herbs, though.

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Sounds great, I’ll be reporting back.

Can you please post some Samsa pictures from the trip? My colleague is Uzbek and I would to show him!

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Will do. We had a great selection of takeout samsa for breakfast this morning, but they got consumed too quickly for any photos.

This is a long-shot, but … IIRC by the Advantour Tashkent office, there was this excellent local restaurant just a couple of blocks down the street (which direction? who knows)

In spite of that useless assistance, if you happen to walk by a restaurant with this exact kitchen in the window (again, not so uncommon):

Then try ordering their plov:

It was the best meal my then-gf and I had in the country.

And no, Uzbek food is not really spicy. Unctuous is more like it.


and I noticed that you were interested in trying a local version of “foreign” food?:

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Thank you. We have been thinking about doing a tour with Advantour, so this could be a very useful tip. However, from looking at Google Maps (by far the best way to plan eating in Tashkent since it links directly to Google reviews), I can’t figure out where you ate. The only Uzbek restaurant fairly close to Advantour that I can find is Anjir, and neither its kitchen nor its plates look similar to your photos.

I’ll pass on the local version of American hamburgers (as I suspect you did too). I haven’t had good luck with those in general.

Oh yeah, the hamburger photo was in jest! But I did notice a bunch of … amusing knock-offs throughout Tashkent, that one included.

As for restaurants near Advantour, in fairness that photo is from 2018. Nevertheless, I worked with Advantour to help secure my then-gf’s Uzbek visa (she was a Mexican passport holder), so thumbs up for them.

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Advantour gets very good reviews, so if we do any tours (we tend not to), they will be our leading contender. But the tour we’re most interested in is one to Shymkent, Kazakhstan, and they don’t seen to offer one of those.

I just clicked on your profile and then over to your food blog and I am majorly impressed (a phrasing that you as an etymologist might frown on). I will be looking at your writings in detail after we get back from Uzbekistan. I absolutely love your most recent post on the precarious position of Kurdish kebab truck proprietors in Japan, who don’t need visas but also can’t work above ground exactly legally.

I have taught English as a volunteer to immigrants and foreign visitors to the Washington DC area for more than 32 years now, so I am fascinated by the intricacies of how immigration laws and immigration realities intersect (and particularly when they intersect with food).

For example, I am astonished that so many people don’t realize how crucial Uber and Lyft (and food delivery services) have been to immigrants to the US who haven’t acquired a green card.

I saw one particularly interesting example last year when we stayed in a small hotel in the center of Tirana, run by an Albanian-American husband and his Mexican-Albanian wife. She is a neurosurgeon and listening to her talk about her challenges in getting Albanian hospitals to accept her credentials was very interesting.

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As for the knock-offs, surely you are not suggesting that the name of the Galmart Supermarket in Tashkent has anything to do with the American corporate giant Walmart, are you?

And I can’t imagine that you believe that the similarity of the name of the Uzbek women’s lingerie store Women’s Secret and the US women’s lingerie store Victoria’s Secret is anything more than a coincidence.

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Thank you for the kind words. Food is great, but I believe spontaneous conversations are the real gem of traveling.

Volunteering as an ESL teacher in DC sounds like a worthwhile endeavor; given that geographic location, have you pretty much taught the entire world?

Yes, obtaining accreditation in another country is a primrose path if there ever were one. Unfortunately, some countries play host to fake diploma mills, but now I’m getting very off-topic.

Back to Uzbekistan, I’d be curious to know how much the Samarkand and Bukhara culinary scene has evolved, even since 2018. Whereas our overall time in that country was excellent, the taste buds longed for variety after just the third day.

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the penetration of english (including used in nonsensical ways) into business and product names and advertising promotions all over the world is astonishing, Toronto Raptor Chicken in Turkmenistan on another thread being just one example

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Look forward to traveling vicariously through your reports.

What put Uzbekistan on your list?

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I see the auto-correct in my brain caused me to type the name “Women’Secret” as “Women’s Secret.”

I don’t think it’s a complete count, but I know i have taught English to people from at least 65 countries. I teach at the advanced level, so everyone in the class is already able to communicate at some decent level of English. As a result, I have learned an enormous amount about the world over my years of teaching.

As for accreditations, in my classes, the number of lawyers, doctors, dentists, etc. now working as Uber drivers, nannies, retail checkout clerks, etc. has been huge. Failures to transfer skills far outnumber the successes.

I don’t know how much insight I will have into the cuisine in Bukhara and Samarkand. We will be in Bukhara only 2 days and in Samarkand only 1 day.

We decided to focus on Tashkent. In Tashkent, whose population is now estimated at 3.3 million, I think Uzbek food is now its own specialized subcategory, much like “meat and three” blue plate diners and barbecue places in the USA. People definitely eat at such places and love them (the passion for plov is something to behold), but places with a strictly Uzbek menu are outnumbered by restaurants with pan-EuroAsian menus (which are called “European” restaurants), Turkish restaurants, Korean restaurants, Italian restaurants, Georgian restaurants, Japanese restaurants, American chain restaurants, etc.

I doubt the lack of variety will be a problem in Tashkent, even though we will prioritize Uzbek places in our choices of where to eat.

We’re only done three restaurant meals so, only one Uzbek, and I hope to get up more detailed posts about those meals soon.

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Yes, I thought that thread about the Toronto Raptor chicken in Turkmenistan was really funny and interesting. I’m not venturesome enough to even think about going to Turkmenistan.