We can agree to disagree, but there are some things that do not need – nor should they ever (IMHO) – be reproduced!
Every time I grill a steak, it never tastes exactly the same way twice . . . same with a burger, same with a pasta sauce, etc., etc., etc. I, for one, enjoy those differences.*
EVERY vintage of wine is different from every other, and while (e.g.) 2000, 2009, and 2010 in Pauillac are each considered to be extraordinary vintages , the three years each produced different wines from each other, even from the same château. And those differences magnify over time as the bottled wine ages, and ages differently depending upon shipping, storage, etc., etc.
These differences from one vintage to the next, combined with these changes as the finished wine matures in the bottle, are part of what makes wine exciting for – dare I say? – a vast majority of the people who are “seriously into” wine (whatever that means).
And which “1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay” did they reproduce? It’s doubtful they reproduced the beverage the way it tasted in 1976, when it starred in the Paris tasting. Were they able to somehow magically transport themselves back to 1976 in order to run a sample through the replicator so Jean-Luc Picard could say, “Chardonnay, 1973 Montelena, Cooled”? Doubtful.
So, did they reproduce the way the wine tastes now, in 2016? Now, I haven’t had the wine in years, but I’ll willing to bet the wine is OTH and tastes like $#|+ today.
No. This is, for me, pretty close to the definition of an abomination, and most people I’ve spoken ITB with agree. YMMV.
* This doesn’t mean that I do not understand, nor appreciate, the need for consistency in a restaurant situation.