Taste of Sha Xian — Fujian food in San Mateo

Taste of Sha Xian, apparently part of the Fujian-based Shaxian Snacks/Delicacies chain with tens of thousands of locations worldwide, just opened its first SFBA location in San Mateo.

Fuzhounese immigrants to the US have primarily settled in the northeast and this has left a conspicuous absence of Fuzhounese food in the SFBA. Fujian-born chefs have been cooking here for years, but to my knowledge there’s been no specific venue for Fuzhounese food. Some exceptions would be specialties that became part of Taiwanese or Southeast Asia (i.e., Hokkien) cuisines, an occasional Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, or some scattered dishes on Cantonese menus.

Cruising through some NYC editions of the chain, Wikipedia, and one article, I understand that menus widely vary across locations. Anyone eaten there yet? Compared to non-Fujian-based renditions, are there notable differences in the wontons, peanut sauce noodles, broth or fish balls ingredients/texture?

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I’m disappointed they don’t have gluttonous rice dumplings (福建肉粽子).
When I lived in Hong Kong briefly I ate at a Fujian snack shop semi-frequently and loved those things. They had a different flavor and consistency then the standard Cantonese Lo Mai Gai.

According to a server, the chain Customizes each location to accommodate local tastes, which explains why the menu is mostly filled with the omnipresent Sichuan, xiao chi, etc. Until the demand for Fujian items changes, they’ve got only a few things unavailable elsewhere in the SFBA:

Shaxian Noodles W Peanut Sauce沙县花生酱拌面
Oyster Flakes Soup 海蛎锅边糊
Meat Rice Dumplings 鲜肉汤圆
Meat W/ Potato Rice dumplings 福清土豆肉丸子
Fuzhou Pork Wonton Soup福州燕丸汤
Oyster Pancake海蛎煎饼
Noodle W.pork Bone Soup Base猪骨清汤面
Maybe some of the (double boiled?) items in the “Soup” section

These are all listed on the online menu, but many are missing from the outdated printed menu.

They have two types of wonton soup, both with the same pork broth + dried shrimp + scallions. The Fuzhou Pork Wonton Soup福州燕丸汤 is the most distinct from locally available versions and the server indicated the wonton’s richness makes it divisive. Pork, or some translucent derivative thereof, is mixed into the wonton skin dough, giving it a smooth but less uniform texture than the regular wonton skin, and umami where you’d least expect it. The meatball is seasoned with soy sauce, sesame oil, and what tasted like star anise and cinnamon (perhaps five spice powder) and pork oil is added to the bowl to finish.

I found the Fuzhou wontons unique and enjoyable. For those looking for less of a flavor whallop, the Sha Xian Wonton Soup has small pork wontons (no shrimp) and adds seaweed to the broth.

The Shaxian Noodles W Peanut Sauce沙县花生酱拌面, wide flat noodles atop a secret sauce from headquarters. Good perhaps for balancing out a meal, but not a destination dish.

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