This Korean Tasting Menu Is Silicon Valley’s Answer to Lazy Bear
Josh Sens | Photo: Nader Khouri | October 11, 2018
Soondubu and galbi lettuce wraps get a fine-dining spin at Maum in Palo Alto.
some of the best lines I’ve seen in a while:
It being Palo Alto, I’d been bracing for an evening of tech-world peacocking, but there wasn’t much of that to mock. Someone mentioned the company he’d sold. Someone else let slip that she’d gone to Harvard. But it was the most benign of humblebragging.
The meal itself, meanwhile, struck me as invitingly un–Palo Alto, bleeding-edge cuisine in a leafy suburb that, for all its pioneering in the new economy, has long lagged well behind the culinary curve. Maum is a disruption in the local dining scene. Out came a dish called duck dduk-galbi, a play on a grilled meat patty traditionally made with short ribs. In this case, ground duck spiked with ginger and serrano chilies was pressed into a cylinder and grilled around a duck bone, the ends of which protruded. It looked like headwear for Wilma Flintstone, but it was very real and very delicious.
The Ticket: A recommended dinner for two at Maum
Prix fixe per person. . . . . . . $165
Oyster with kimchi ice; squash leaf; corn tartlet; soondae with salted shrimp; umhook with hot mustard; caviar, potato, and biscuit; tomato, cucumber, and kelp; soondubu with alliums and soy; sablefish haemultang; duck dduk-galbi; galbi, ssam, pickle, and jang; oxtail, rice, and broth; strawberry and buttermilk; barley-and-buckwheat ice cream; mignardises
Split beverage pairing. . . . . $140
Total for two. . . . . . $470
322 University Ave. (near Bryant St.), Palo Alto, 650-656-8616