We arrived Saturday AM not without a hitch, tight connection in Munich left us on the plane to FCO, but not our bags. Wait around for next flight, but have to go outside the terminal to speak with driver. In order to get back in to the terminal without a boarding pass, we basically went through the workers security with a special handwritten pass. Love Italy, this would never fly in NY/NJ We did have some nice fried Alici waiting for the next flight at Eataly in the terminal.
Campo dei Fiori for the tourist thing, since we are them…
Yes, that’s a Long Island Iced Tea, long story why I ordered it, but it was my Dad’s birthday and it was an issue with the teen years.
and then Cesare al Pellegrino for dinner.
Spaghetti with sweetbreads was the winner of the night. (not that there were any misses) Gnocchi with oxtail sauce, and spezzatino also. Cesanese to drink
Porta Portese flea market in the morning, Capuchin monk crypts, chestnuts at the top of the Spanish steps (bless my daughter for getting us to the top, and we only walked down), Ferrari store for a ridiculously priced ball cap for my son.
Ivo a Trastevere for pizza lunch
Then Tavernaccia a Bruno for dinner. As good as i remembered. The maiale was even better this time.
Trippa in a white sauce was out of this world. Bruschetta with lardo, pigs ears were very crunchy. Glad we ordered them, and glad i won’t again . Fettucine with a sheep ragu, and lasagne. Fettucine was great, lasagne was good.
Loving this!! I never got to T. Bruno but will put it on top of list for long overdue return to Rome. (Will skip the pig’s ears–I can never “stomach” those–maybe I’m hard of hearing (sorry!) ). Why are you doing this to me…I am in Sevilla and now craving Roman food??
Day 3, Monday (it’s becoming a blur I better catch up to real time)
Bar Glorioso for a caffe, my daughter’s spot when she studied here…Marco the proprietor of Bar Glorioso Bistrot is a doll. Basilica of S. Clemente, to check out the excavated ruins beneath. Fairly stunning, if iI say so. Basilica of S. Pietro in Vincoli for Michelangelo’s Moses. Roscioli for a lightish lunch, nap for old Dad. Pantheon later to say hello, Armando al Pantheon for dinner.
Pagan temple under the Basilica. shhhh, we don’t like to talk about it.
Another Cesanese, when in Rome…
Coratella panino with cicoria…coratella slider?
pajata
trippa alla romana
lamb abacchio
they mistakenly brought me amatriciana, no big deal. But after all was said and done they brought out a taste of the carbonara that I initially ordered. Very nice touch.
First time at Armando for me. As advertised, everything was exceptional. Will gladly do it again.
Day 4, Tuesday. Trip to Napoli and a food tour with Culinary Backstreets. Francesca , our guide, was lovely.
Insane amount of food, plus I slept like crap the night before and my gut was not great. It was a struggle, and I don’t like to throw the word hero around a lot, but you’ll see me in the old Encylopedia Brittanica next to St. Thomas.
Off the train and onto a warm sfogliatelle. It was great, but it is something we do fairly closely here in the good old USA
Escarole and cheese and mini lard breads.
All kinds of mixed fish, there was salmon, sword, calamari, anchovies and other stuff.
Baked pasta (al forno)
Pasta genovese (the original ragu, just onions and meat…predates the tomato in Italy)
Friarelli. Similar in taste to our broccoli rabe, much more delicate.
Pizza fritta. learned it came to be after the war. Bombed pizza places could not get their ovens back but were able to heat up a vat of oil.
(apologies for the familiarity and pedantic stuff above, this was a copy and paste from a fishing site I frequent that has a food thread…they are mostly knuckleheads there )
I knew him (Jr. Sirico) when I was a youngster, sneaking into my local Brooklyn pool hall (a block away from DiFara’s). I think he got into acting after he was put away and joined the prison theater group. Or, maybe that was just a rumor.
Ok, let’s try this again. I disappeared a post earlier today.
After Napoli we had plans to meet up with Michela and Andrea who we met on our last trip at her business Michela Home Restaurant. They are both great people and we caught up with her in nyc at one of her popups. Colline Emiliane (e. Minchilli pick) for a change of pace with the Emilia Romagna cuisine. First aperitivo and then in to the restaurant. Mostly Italians in there, which was a good sign.
Tortellini in brodo, zucca and cheese tortelloni, boy pictured tagliatelle bolognese. Again a great meal with great people. Excuse my large skull.
Day 5, Wednesday. Help me, the walking is killing me but that’s the saving grace with all the food. Testaccio market for Mordi e vai and Manco and Manco with a little porchetta piadina thrown in.
Caravaggio exhibit at palazzo Barberini, and dinner in Monti at Ristorante Il Tempio di Iside for seafood. Little pricey, but worth it.
We did have some nice fried Alici waiting for the next flight at Eataly in the terminal.
. Fettucine with a sheep ragu, and lasagne. Fettucine was great, lasagne was good.
