Really miss CH boards! Looking for 4 dinners in Venice (Spring 2023). Previous favorites inlcuded il Ridotto, Osteria Santa Marina, Osteria Anice Stellato. No specific requirements except that must be able to make a reservation (and good food).
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Have not been in venice in years. La Frasca was out of the way and wonderful. Bancogiro in the fish/veg market was a cicchetti bar turning into a restaurant. And I always love Do Mori for cicchetti e l’ombre.
I agree on Anice Stellato. Great place.
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We also haven’t been there for years, but two of our favorites were Al Covo and Da Fiore.
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I was in Venice in September and had my favorite meals that trip at Al Covo (just getting better in my opinion) and Alle Testiere. I arrived starving at Al Covo after spending all day on a train, nothing to eat, so I ate my way through the menu. Stuffed and fried squash blossoms, pasta vongole and grilled langoustine, the latter an especial treat for me, as I don’t get them in the U.S. I couldn’t eat another bite but my waitress said I could order a half order of any dessert I wanted and they had a homemade vanilla ice cream with licorice sauce (I happen to love licorice, and again this is something I don’t find in New York).
I was with my godson for the rest of my stay, so though I enjoyed my meals, I was somewhat distracted. I did have wonderful clams at Alle Testiere, and I think we had grilled fish for two, anyway that kitchen is amazing, totally confident, and the room buzzes.
I can also recommend highly Antiche Carampane from that trip, and if you are into seriously quirky, especially in the service department, CoVino is fun and food playful and tasty. My godson particularly enjoyed the later, methinks. We dined al fresco at Antiche Carampane and ate v. well, can’t recall the what, sorry!
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Thank you, we dined at Al Covo about 10 years ago, it was pretty good. At that time, I was turned off by the fact that the entire dining room was English speaking patrons, but I suppose it is hard to shake off the touristy vibes in Venice. Will probably give it another shot. Also dined at Alle Testiere, and enjoyed the seafood very much.
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Well, given that of the husband/wife owners of Al Covo, he, the chef, is Italian and she, the front of house manager, is a native Texan, it is understandable that the serious welcome given to English speakers, particularly Americans, is a big draw. I do not think, however, that this especial welcome takes away from the enjoyment of the serious cooking coming out of the kitchen. It is in no way a “tourist trap,” and rather that rare bird managing to be a favorite of locals (listen carefully, especially at a later seating, and you will hear lots of Italian spoken) and visitors alike. I will be curious, if you return, to know if it appeals any differently to you this time. Diane, the Texan host, will certainly be knocking herself out to make sure you enjoy your meal as she attends to any question or desire you may have that she can fulfill.
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i quite agree!
The first time we ate there, years ago, Diane came shortly after we had sat down, and started explaining the menu in Italian. So I started translating into English for our daughter. Then she immediately switched to English. We were there in the evening, and she told us that the restaurant was never full at lunchtime. So a few days later we went for lunch. Well, it was full that day, so we went to a place around the corner, which was, I think, in the same location as CoVino is. I had some wonderful fried langoustines, “scampi” in Italian. The portion was so big that I couldn’t finish itl
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Mine were grilled, not fried, so maybe that’s why I did absolutely finish them. Or maybe I’m just a serious glutton!
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Most recent reports on anice stellato on CH pre covid and site demise were that it had changed ownership and gone downhill. It had been one of my favorites too.
Wish CH archives were around! Thank you for remembering.
When we ate there, I could only detect from the voices two tables that were occupied by Europeans. One occupied by Italians and us. Everyone else was North American which just felt a bit weird. Good food though.
Tagging this topic because we have decided to spend a few days of our spring break in Venice. Renting n Cannareggio so that corner of the city is of particular interest. I think I will book Al Covo for the first time based on Ninkat and others reccs here. Any other particular recommendations? In the past we have liked Alla Frasca, Corte Sconta, and La Zucca particularly of still surviving places. Any thoughts about Vini da Gigio? Dalla Marisa? Alla Maddalena or any other spots in the lagoon islands? In general we prefer traditional sitdown places to bacari.
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Hi Jen and other CH refugees.
I had heard the same thing about Anice Stellato–that it had changed owners and gone downhill.
Vini da Gigio remains my favorite–so fresh, local and seasonal. We were last there in Spring '22 and it was excellent again. Here is a link to my blog from our last lunch there: https://keepyourfeetinthestreet.com/2022/04/one-great-lunch/
Alle Testiere: I have never had any less than a fabulous meal there but I’ve only been for lunch a handful of times.
I am very picky but I was disappointed in Alla Frasca. The menu, post-covid, was very limited the the food was underseasoned. It is a lovely spot to dine though.
Food at Ai Promessi Sposi has been consistently very good. I really love their frittura with great variety of fish. Pasta dishes are nice too but sometimes very rich.
I would also suggest Vino Vero for wine and creative cicchetti. They have a bunch of tables right on the canal, if you can snag one.
Where is your apartment, Jen?
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Hi Jen: I was a long time CH lurker and always enjoyed your posts. Another big thumbs up for Vini da Gigio. Our last trip to Venice (fifth or sixth since 2007) was in October 2021. Here is an excerpt from a trip report I posted on the Slow Europe forums (https://www.sloweurope.com/community/threads/venice-dining-october-2021.6124):
“Vini da Gigio. Memorable! We were in the front room, next to a table where the owner was sampling dishes with his brother-in-law and 2 buddies. Grilled seppie and calamari to start, linguini with butter and anchovies, spaghetti carbonara di pesce (as I’m typing this my wife mentions that I didn’t share enough of it), then a fish filet we shared. A nice bottle of white and one of the smoothest grappas we ever tasted to finish. 130€“
We’ve stayed in Cannaregio all but 1 of these trips. Our first meal is usually at Ai Promessi Sposi, another very reliable spot. Very nearby is Trattoria da Bepi antico 54, also worth a visit.
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Not a sauce, but the licorice gelato at Laboratorio del gelato is very good.
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Better and better. Grazie. Have bookmarked for slightly warmer weather.
Love scampi and that looks fantastic
Agreed! Haven’t been in some time, but Al Covo was a standout. The owner is from TX if I recall and married an Italian? Don’t quote me. Very warm and friendly service and outstanding food.
We really liked Alla Maddalena a few years back. Fantastic seafood, especially the appetizer mix (picture below). Brilliant gnocchi with crab, mussels, simply grilled monkfish. One of our favorite meals in Venice.
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