Italy in May 2025: Emilia-Romagna, Bologna, and Venice

ok, first, Id have to say Ferrara did not rate super high for me in this region (one day visit, my 95 year old mom along, on Uniworld cruise.) I like Padova, Bologna, Ravenna, Mantova much better, certainly more significant artistiic achievements (Modena too). The special dishes of Ferrara did not thrill. It does seem like more of a peaceful backwater than the others though. I do have notes about Panificio Pasticceria Perdonati Ferrara, which you might want to look into - due to the limitations of our tour, I never made it there
Im assuming you must have a special target interest there…

One place I would definitely aim for in that general region (and the po delta area is fascinating anyway) is La Lanzara in Volano. https://www.ristorantelazanzara.com/
A famous Italy specialist on CH, Allende, used to be extremely enthusiastic about it, but I havent been able to get close on recent trips.

Bologna - a really interesting town, unique, with monuments to lawyers, amazing terra cotta pieta sculptures - I hope intense tourism hasnt ruined the center. If you feel like a bit of a hike, there is a pilgrimage church you can get to up a hill, following an arcade all the way, with wonderful views - we went on a Sunday in 2017 (last visit to the city) and enjoyed a very simple lunch on the way back down at Meloncello a simple old trattoria with the local basics well done. Our best meals on that trip were at Trattoria di Via Serra and All’Osteria Bottega - we went to the latter twice, second time a drop in at lunch. I liked the less typical dishes best there. I note that we chatted with guy over that lunch, and he had made the trip to Modena twice for Bottura - he liked the less formal spot better than Osteria Francescana, FWIW.

Venice, we were there in spring of 2023, earlier than you plan and not at all crowded. You can look at what I wrote on this thread. Restaurants in Venice - #14 by jangita which has a lot of other very good opinions on it too. We love Vini del Gigio and Alle Testiere - the latter elbow to elbow, not at all pretentious, sociable, and interesting good venetian food. Alla Zucca - food is very good but very rich, dont order more than one dish with cheese!!! The islands are great - Torcello is very beautiful, but I am not sure I would eat there or whether Locanda Cipriani, which I have been reading about for decades, is worth it - Id recommend going to Mazzorbo instead. The funeral island is interesting, Burano less so, and frankly I would not chase those places that everybody and his brother will try to go to - they will just be crazy busy.

Will be interested to hear what you decide and how it goes - that includes the other places you havent written about yet!

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