Just came back. Interesting food scene for a city the size of Staten Island. A lot of farm to table type so some of the same ingredients follow you from place to place. Seems as expensive as Manhattan and more expensive than Montreal. Maybe the tourist/local ratio has something to do with it. Tipping less than 20% felt awkward. Gone are the days of 10-15% tipping in Canada, or I’m just getting old and forgetful. I’m only in my late 40’s (54 to be exact)
Food sort more or less from good to bad.
Melba - Top meal without question. The apps are snack size so I would go for at least 3 snacks for two. Best and most unique snack was the “Bikini” sandwiches. Like a grilled cheese sandwich on crack. Superb lobster poached Halibut and an even better Guineafowl with potatoes, chard and a killer combination of sauces. Bread is another must.
Buvette Scott – Second best meal. Intimate environment, with the kind of service that feels like hanging out with old friends. A nice special of lightly fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with mascarpone and smoked trout. The signature duck ham was like eating duck butter. Mezzelune pasta stuffed with ricotta and topped with lobster was fine. Morels stuffed with chicken wing meat with aromatic veal and wine broth, and last asparagus of the season was most unique and delicious.
Chez Boulay-bistro boréal – A classic in the old town. Lunch specials come with soup (excellent leek and potato) or salad. Cavatelli with broccoli and local cheese was light and refreshing. Lean, flaky beef cheeks with a complimentary ratatouille is a signature here and I can see why. After the meal, exit through the other end via the hotel (that’s also where the bathrooms are) and check out the Bouley sweets store. Eye popping stuff.
Chez Mag on Île d’Orléans - decent lobster rolls and smoked meat poutine. Nice picnic area.
Driving around the island was a highlight with eating strawberries from a stand being thee highlight.
Le Clocher Penché – Choosing between an uncomfortably warm room and a room with no ambiance was not a good start. The appetizers made up for it more than the mains. Scallops with morels, easily top dish. The sauce is the reason to order the terrific bread. Shell pasta with oyster mushrooms and Pork chop were serviceable.
Au Petit Coin Breton – Uninspiring pricy crepes with egg, ham and cheese. Nothing like a classic Breton Galette. The crepes at Baguette & Chocolat looked more like it.
Other eats
Chez Temporel - Fine Brunch, Croque Monsieur tastes better than it looks
Boulangerie artisanale Epi’Fanny - Excellent pistachio croissants and Jambon sandwiches
Épicerie J.A. Moisan - very cool international store. Sampled some cheese and ended up with a creamy La Bete a Seguin to enjoy with a baguette
as also the scallops with morels.
One of the best meals I’ve had anywhere.
