Paris, Nice, Mougins et environs…

Regional Dining Discussions France
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First post!

Been so impressed with people’s expertise, knowledge, and generosity. Recently traveled back to Paris in January and was blown away by a few meals (Soces, A.Léa). Feel confident in Paris (but would love feedback) but less so about our reservations in the South of France. Done a lot of research but would love your insight and perspective—especially on the Coast!

Meals planned/booked in Paris:

Enfants du Marché, Quebedon, Cafe des Ministeres, Cafe de L’Usine, Dandelion (waitlist), Dame,
Aldehyde (waitlist), A.Léa, Kubri, and one lunch in Giverny at Blossom Bistrot.

Mougins is our home base for the second part of the trip.

Meals planned/booked in the South:

Nice: Chez Davia, Le Bistrot de Jan considering MARMAR and Mallard based on a suggestion here!

Near/Around Mougins: La Place de Mougins, Bistrot des Anges, Les Délicatesses de Grasse, Les Dilettants.

Also planning on a lunch at The Grill at Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc and a dinner at La Colombe D’Or.

What am I missing? Any faves in Cannes?

Thank you!

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My thoughts, very personal, FWIW:

Les Enfants du Marché Rouge – I haven’t for a long time, but it’s never impressed me and service has always been poor when I was there.

Quedubon (I presume that is what you mean) - a bit of a hipster place, it was good and you won’t be disappointed, but it’s not exceptional for Paris.

Café des Ministères – Excellent and enjoyable. Very high quality, ultra-traditional food, and portions are more than copious. Wines generally are not prestige names, but are excellent nonetheless.

Le Café de l’Usine – By all means.

Dandelion – Very, very loud; food is good but not better than that. Nice space (although the limestone walls contribute to the nose). IRRC, winelist was highly natural with a fair amount of natty wines and markups were high. Entirely American clientèle – you’ll feel you’re back in NYC (i.e., why bother to come to Paris for this?). I won’t be back.

Dame – Very good food and wine, friendly staff.

Aldéhyde – Outstanding; contemporary French with a Tunisian twist, go at night. Understandably, prices have increased since the Michelin star.

A.Léa – Excellent; go at night or for Sunday lunch.

Kubri – Good, but I don’t understand the fuss; there are other good Lebanese places around Paris.

Sorry, no recent experience on Côte d’Azur.

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Thank you! This is great. Taking myself off the waitlist at Dandelion!

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When we were in Paris last May, we made it a point to go to Dandelion, which had just opened a month earlier. Our meal was a bit better than Onz stated & I’d say “good +”, but I have no idea how it has developed over the year’s time.
Basically, the only reason that I’m posting about it is to give some backstory on the NYC connection. Chef/owner Villard came to the Brooklyn location of Fulgurances (the place in the 11th that had rotating chefs) and had a very successful couple of months there. In fact, we liked his food so much that we went more than once. He worked on a bunch of things and was clearly excited about his impending return to Paris to open his own place. I’m guessing that we weren’t the only ones who made a note to go when we got back to Paris. While it sort of surprises me that Onz found the place full of New Yawkers, as we didn’t (it was maybe 25% English speaking when we were there), I cant say that I’m shocked. Word of mouth amongst NY/Paris folk is pretty common (we have big mouths and overshare a bit - shocking, I know). I, myself, have spoken about Dandelion to many friends traveling to Paris (including AndyG on HO) and it’s not like there aren’t beaucoup d’Americans in the 10th, 11th, etc. looking for word of mouth “hot places” to go.
Bottom line is that I’d definitely go again when we get back to Paris and would love to hear/see that Chef Villard’s fare has gotten even better. However, since we spend over a month when we’re there, I have no doubt that it wouldn’t be a problem to get in, but I’m not sure that I’d suffer a waiting list to do so.

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Got it, thank you for the insight!

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@onzieme - When you write of Les Enfants du Marché Rouge, are you thinking of the restaurant Les Enfants Rouges? I think the OP is referring to Les Enfants du Marché, the dining counter inside Le Marché des Enfants Rouges.

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A couple I haven’t been, but the only one I’ll differ from onzieme is Les Enfant du Marché.

I find the food very good usually, and occasionally great. My comments on my visit last year here. The mussels with Gorgonzola alone are almost worth the visit for me.
I plan to return for lunch next month, but as SteveR notes, we’re in Paris for several weeks this year. As long as you know you’re going to something that’s more covered outdoors counter than sit down restaurant, I’d encourage you to go if you’re interested. Though I agree it’s not a must go.

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Not sure when you’ll be in Paris, but I “volunteered” :grinning: to Steve to try it out next month.
It’s already pretty much booked for dinner all month, so we’ll be going for lunch in the middle of the month, and will report back.

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I’ll be in Paris from the 27-31st, but looking forward to your report! Have a great trip!

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Yes, exactly!

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Re Les Enfants du Marché inside the marche, been twice loved it. Great food, warm service though it’s not a pure sit down type of place. In Cannes we love Marche forville, while not as good as in the past *thank you eu bureaucrats) the fish vendors are still sublime. PS We never eat out in Cannes, sometimes we do in Nice but the marche and vendors are so good…we usually bring home to our place.

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Thank you! Great info. Anywhere you particularly love in Nice?

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Yes, you are right, my mistake and I should have checked my lists. I’ve never been to Les Enfants du Marché Rouge. I’ve edited to reflect that fact.

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Re Dandelion, my visit was in September 2024 and after the restaurant had been given a rave review by Paris by Mouth, probably explaining why everyone was American.

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A few opinions for you from the south… I assume you are looking from Nice and west, since you only mentioned Colombe d’Or.

I thought Chez Davia was well executed classic Nicois cuisine, and maybe the service was sluggish; if you are looking for modern decor, you might be disappointed by a place that looks very much like the family’s original decor (outside will make less of a difference). The chef is from the family, who returned back after time under the famous chefs and on his own. The tarte citron was excellent however, rustic/original and the barbajuans delicious. I’ve not yet tried the new-ish bistrot at Jan.

I don’t have much to add on Mougins, although with a car you can easily explore many other places nearby, with notable choices in le Rouret, Tourettes-su-Loup, around La Colle Sur Loup/St. Paul de Vence, Biot (similar to choosing places in Vallauris and le Cannet). Cannes itself surprisingly lacks a lot of choices or newer places that generate any type of word of mouth (maybe Pompon for small plates). Yes, there are some premium hotels and big brand cafes, but usually with just OK, mostly well-executed food.

I’ve not been to the Grill at Cap Eden Roc since they prioritize hotel guests in booking. I am guessing you are looking at the experience and location overall

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Yes, some in our party are for the experience, but I am definitely for the best food! If you have any recs, we are open! What are your pics in Le Rouret, Tourettes-su-Loup, around La Colle Sur Loup/St. Paul de Vence, Biot? Thank you!

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I have not been to Le Bistrot, but the cheese course experience at Jan proper was very memorable, A+. The rest of the dinner at Jan was B+.

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Maybe l alchimie, bar de oiseax, or cantine de meme? We had great meals there all last week.

Chez Davia seems like an old famous standard bearer that has poor service and inconsistent food at least based on what I read.

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Thank you both so much!

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Blockquote Yes, some in our party are for the experience, but I am definitely for the best food! If you have any recs, we are open! What are your pics in Le Rouret, Tourettes-su-Loup, around La Colle Sur Loup/St. Paul de Vence, Biot? Thank you!

I had noticed the choice in St. Paul de Vence, and just wanted to note there are also some good choices in the surrounding villages and towns. La Colombe d’Or is a historic place and the art from reknown artists on the walls (given as payment for bills, as legend goes). I just remember the food just being good, the service very good and classic, and the overall experience was good. If you are wanting to supplement the experience with other stops I encourage you to go to Tourettes-sur-Loup (Spelt, Cinq) and Gourdon (just a beautiful perched village/view, eat elsewhere).