Finally dined in the new restaurant Vaisseau of Adrien Cachot. Opened in December 2023 after 3 years of preparation. I’m lucky to get a reservation in end of February for a lunch last Friday, so the wait was relatively short. My last meal in a Cachot restaurant was Détour back in 2019, his first restaurant in the 9th district.
The vibe of restaurant is minimalist, dark grey walls with white tables. An open kitchen at the end facing immediate a large table for accompanying big group and some small tables for 2 around the baie vitrée near the street. An obvious upgrade from his tiny 1-man kitchen restaurant that was closed in 2020. Despite the minimal setting, the crowd was young and informal, I don’t think I saw any tourist that day.
We took the 60€ lunch Quoi and choose accord vin mets to go with the meal. The food arrived swiftly but without much description of what they were, we would be given the order of degustation. We had to guess the ingredients in each preparation. I remember it was something they have done in Détour, glad that they didn’t change the format, this keeps conversation lively between servers and clients.
Vinaigrette broth with quail egg
A collection of 4 amuses bouches:
Horserasdish tart
Parloude with mushroom (remind us of the sauce of bouchée la reine)
Pepper meringue
Red cabbage juice
Entrées with 6 small plates, paired with La Trochoir 2021 and sobacha
Butternut in red wine sauce
Rice gnoochis with classic Italian sauce
Jerusalem artichoke with coffee
Lentils with spider crab and coffee
Citrus salade with seasame purée / Mackerel sashimi, citrus and rice vinegar
Brioche sprinkled with fleur de sel was very good, would like to have more.
Main is given the choice of fish or meat, I had meat, partner fish but we shared and tasted everything.
Cod with its a thick white mussel sauce, a touch of citrus with small tapioca pearls for texture. One of my favorite dish.
Pressé de porc serve with a meat juice, black garlic, Brussel sprouts
Paired with Manzanilla Micaela for the white, Pascal Chalon La Grande Ourse URSA Major 2019 for the red wine.
Dessert has 2 choices as well, as usual, we tried all.
Apple with cripsy lettuce leaf and parsley ice cream, very vegetal, surprisingly good
Fondant au chocolat and yuzu pepper ice cream - good but more classic
I have to say lately, few restaurants surprise me anymore but I find a few good ones here. Cachot is mixing different cuisines and influences plus his touch in each plate, you can find Italian and Japanese, or acidity, heat, spicy, hot and cold… Also impressed with the meticulous work and preparation, we have a meal the level of 1-star restaurant. Wine list is more on the expensive side and I don’t see wine by glasses, but there are a few less than 100€ bottles, a few beers and non alcoholic drink. Service was good with the friendly team. One of the regret is lunch menu doesn’t have offal dishes, but only in the long menu and available before 12:30 pm or at night. The reservation is opened once every 2 months, and you have to be on time to grab a slot, as everything will be gone in less than 10 minutes. I recommend hearty the place and will return to have a dinner.
