In “Season , ” he places charred cubes of roasted paneer in a bed of cauliflower, scallions and lentils. He breaks it up with his hands and folds it into a warm potato salad with cilantro, chives and a cured spicy sausage native to the Indian state of Goa; the paneer eases the jolt of the sausage. He bakes it into a frittata with garam masala, where the paneer retains its rubbery feel, the crumbles scrubbing against your tongue.
Mr. Sharma has attracted champions as high-profile as the British cookbook authors Nigella Lawson and Diana Henry. Ms. Henry, now a close friend, credits him with opening up a world of flavor combinations she didn’t realize existed.
The finished version of Mr. Sharma’s frittata.Credit Preston Gannaway for The New York Times