When Hawksmoor opened in Manchester – their first outside London – we went several times. But, after two experiences with very tough meat (I complained about one and it was taken off the bill), we decided that they’d had a second chance and enough was enough. That was in 2018 and we’ve not been back since. I’m not quite sure why we decided to give it a third chance but, several years later, here we were.
Reassuringly, the level of service and general hospitality is as before. Faultless. Everyone wants you to have a nice time and do all that you need of them. And with a smile. As for the food……fingers crossed……yes, it was absolutely fine.
For one of us, a lovely light starter. Baked beetroot, earthy yet sweet, pickled fennel, a real twang from horseradish, although none apparent of the advertised hazelnuts. The other starter was absolutely in Fred Flintstone territory. Delicious, unctuous bone marrow, mixed with long cooked onions, presented in two halves of bone. It’s a generous portion, served with toasted sourdough. Of course, Fred would have turned the bones into long dangly earrings for Wilma – but, here, the server just takes them away, presumably to be thoroughly cleaned and reused.
So, to the steaks. Whilst there are a range of other things on the menu, you’ve really come for the steak. It was the rump that I mentioned earlier that was tough, so no third chance for that. Sirloins for both of us. In an industry where traditional farming methods are in decline, Hawksmoor prides itself on serving only British beef, fed on pasture and hay, raised slowly and, after slaughter, aged for 35 days for the flavour to develop. So, yes, this is really good steak. And it comes at a price to match. But it doesn’t come with any sides, which are extras. They were cooked accurately as requested and we shared an order of chips and another of English lettuce salad. Good chips and the floppy leaves of the butterhead lettuce were perfect for swooshing up any juices on the plate. We also ordered some béarnaise sauce which was a good example with the flavour of tarragon nicely prominent, but not overwhelming.
This was a meal which, including a couple of drinks and service, came to £180. Good as it was, I’m not convinced this was significantly better than a similar meal at Miller & Carter which would have been around 25% less. We don’t mind paying for good food but, at the end of the day, this was just a steak & chips dinner. We’re probably not in a rush to come back.
