Maine trip report 6/29-7/7 (mostly coastal areas north and south of Portland)

Going to try to cover every place I ate on my recent trip. I’ll just go chronologically.

6/29

Johnny Shucks, Old Orchard Beach: This is a pretty new spot. My lobster roll had a bit too much mayo (compared to the other pics I saw) but the meat was very fresh and delicious. Would say “light mayo” on next visit just to be sure.


Fish & Whistle, Biddeford: Another fairly new spot in the foodie hotspot of Biddeford, my base of operations for the first part of my trip. Broiled Norumbega oysters with bread crumbs and garlic scape butter as delicious as they sound and look. The famous fish and chips (half order) also excellent.

6/30

Rover Bagels, Biddeford: A key part of the Maine bagel renaissance. Excellent seed coverage. Nicely chewy but a little on the soft side. The one I got with cream cheese was lightly toasted and that took it to the next level.

Sika, Saco: Small Scandinavian bakery across the river in Saco. I got a Pomegranate Lemonade, Norwegian Skolebrod, and Apricot Pop Tart. Great stuff. Limited hours.




Edelweiss, Biddeford: Small Swiss bakery. Equally authentic. I got a Cranberry Brioche and a Chocolate Weggli. Great with the Maine blueberry jam.


Maine Oyster Festival, Freeport: A great event showcasing some of Maine’s bounty. This year’s lineup was mostly oyster farms from Freeport and Yarmouth. About 12 different farms. Not a cheap event but if you like oysters it’s a must.
Peng’s Pizza, Biddeford: Now here is a real showstopper. Lemon and Onion White Pie with added anchovies. A superb pizza and a great value for $22 ($20 plus $2 for the chovies). Like with bagels and other baked goods, Maine’s pizza game is strong. Beer game too. They know their grains and fermentations up there. But this pizza was really special.

Jimmy’s Jazz & Blues Club, Portsmouth NH: Made a rare incursion into NH to visit Jimmy’s for the wonderful vocalist/guitarist John Pizzarelli (two months older than me) and his superb bassist and pianist. Didn’t have any food, which is supposed to be very good, but did enjoy two refreshing Aperol Spritzes.

7/1
Palace Diner, Biddeford: Can’t visit Biddeford without a stop at PD. Was not feeling especially hungry so I limited myself to one of their famous flapjacks and a side of perfectly done bacon.
Maine Diner, Wells: Another regular stop. Lobster Pie as good as always. Disappointed to report they no longer serve Grapenut Custard. :sob:

7/2:
Catface Cafe, Biddeford: A brand-new, very hipsterish cafe right in the heart of town. I had my first chopped cheese sandwich and while it was quite tasty I suspect it was not as gloriously messy as what you get in NYC.

Clam Shack, Kennebunkport: A wildly popular seafood shack in the middle of KBP. Got a classic order of a lobster roll and a half-pint of fried clams. If you like your claims lightly breaded, this is your place.

Dock Square Coffee House, Kennebunkport: Nice little spot to rest the feet. Good coffee.
Rococo Ice Cream, Kennebunkport: Maine is justly famous for its ice cream and this is a top-tier place. They were out of the Cuban Coffee I was craving so I settled for a scoop of the delightful Earl Grey, Sour Cherry Jam & Pistachio.

7/3
Boulangerie, A Proper Bakery, Kennebunk: Made it to this outstanding bakery by 10:30 and they were almost completely wiped out. Did snag two slices of the excellent foccacia pizza, one pepperoni and one veggie.
Golden Rooster, Saco: Due to PD being closed on Wednesdays, met a cousin here for brunch. Open since 1967, it’s a perfectly average and acceptable eatery. I got a lamb melt sandwich and fries. Decent enough.

Also:

Time & Tide, Biddeford and Elements, Biddeford: two nice coffee shops, the latter also a bookstore and a venue for live jazz.

7/4
Sunrise Bagels, Augusta: Didn’t actually make it to the store, but the 5k race in Winthrop had them as a post-race treat. Excellent, chewy bagels
Chick’s Apple and Berry Farm, Monmouth: The raspberry patch was temporarily closed but I was able to pick nice quarts of strawberries and blueberries.

Apple Shed Bakery, Kents Hill: Great bakery in a tiny hamlet known mostly for the prep school. Gigantic scones (the cakier variety) and excellent strawberry-rhubarb turnovers.

HJ Blake’s, Belgrade Lakes: Never pass up $20 lobster rolls from a top purveyor. Holly’s rolls are always a treat, even if she is not. LOL

Alsace, Union: That’s right, an oustanding Alsatian restaurant in a nondescript roadhouse in another tiny hamlet. Had a delightful glass of Trimbach riesling, a huge plate of pork loin schnitzel, and a delicious financier accompanied by freshly made strawberry ice cream.


7/5

Rue 77, Damariscotta: Brand new cafe in the heart of town, featuring Stumptown Coffee, Gelato Fiasco gelato, and baked goods from Sole Pane e Pasticceria in Bath. Tried a Cornetto with lemon cream and it was outstanding.
Barn Door Baking, Damariscotta: Cafe attached to the Sherman’s bookstore. Nice hangout with good coffee and pastries
Barn Door Breakfast, Damariscotta: Up the street in an old house and under the same ownership. I got excellent blueberry pancakes and crisp bacon.

Shuck Station, Newcastle: Another regular stop. Wasn’t overly hungry so just got a dozen local oysters and a dozen littlenecks.

7/6
The Lobster Haul, Damariscotta: Another dependable seafood spot. Got a crabster roll – half lobster and half Maine crabmeat. Delicious.

Alna Store, Alna: Located in a former general store in a really tiny hamlet (pop 728), this place has already been nominated for a James Beard Award. We shared a variety of appetizers (pictured are the tomato salad and grilled broccolini), then I got the Cod Stew, and then we shared the blackberry galette and mint ice cream sandwich. Also got a refreshing salty grapefruit slushy cocktail. Only 15 minutes from Damariscotta despite the obscure location.




7/7
Solo Pane e Pasticceria, Bath: Had to go right to the source of those Cornetti and got four to take back to VA. Also got a slice of artichoke mushroom pizza that is not done justice by the pic.

Red’s Eats, Wiscasset: Ridiculous line but a superb lobster roll. Next trip I vow to go to Sprague’s across the street.

Rosemount Market and Bakery, Scarborough: Not going to blow your socks off, but this local chain has everything you need for a nice feast.

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Another kick-a$$ Maine report @BobfromRIinVA. We miss heading up north since we bought a place in Rhody. But, just yesterday, we talked about a Maine trip so fer sure, I’ll refer to your report. We love Biddeford, too.

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Funny, years ago I chose Sprague’s, and regretted not doing Red’s ever since :smile:

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I have never come across a “Crabster” roll and now I’m a little obsessed with the idea

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Have you been to Fiddleheads in Bangor or Cafe Sopresso in Presque Isle?

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Fiddlehead closed.

I only got it because the crab roll was just $1 less than the lobster roll. Usually there is a substantial difference. Example: At Red’s lob roll $36, crab roll $22.

Maine crab meat is quite good. Jonah, peekytoe, and stone are three well known varieties. Not lumps like blue crabs but nice sweet meat. Definitely worth a try.

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only been to Bangor a couple times and never been to PI!

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I think it’s time for a return visit to Five Islands, actually!

One of the best in Maine for overall food and setting! https://fiveislandslobster.com/

Another mouthwatering report—very much appreciate!

I am so with you on the cornetti from Solo Pane. We’ve been partial to them since that bakery first opened in Bath, and were delighted to see that Rue 77 in Damariscotta is carrying Solo Pane goods.

The hazelnut cornetti were new to us during our stay last week. Highly recommend if you love chocolate hazelnut butter (like Nutella) in a flaky buttery pastry (like a croissant, but Italian-inspired and generous in size).

I cut a hazelnut cornetto in half to offer a peek at the luscious filling. Breakfast? Dessert? Works for me either way.

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Nice pic! I actually googled Cornetti to see what the difference (if any) between them and Croissants is. And I learned that Cornetti batter includes eggs, whereas Croissant batter does not! So sort of on the spectrum between Croissants and Brioche, but closer to Croissants in shape and taste. But in an added twist, Cornetti are known as Brioche in Northern Italy!

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What an amazing report! I’m making my way up the Maine coast, from Boston, soon for an overnight in Camden. I have a reservation for Nina June for dinner, but I’m open to other possibilities. Ideas?

Also planning on stopping at Rue 77. Any southern Maine bakeries? Portland lunch? Definitely getting Honeypaw soft serve!!

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If you need a quick lunch stop in Portland, the Bite Into Maine location at 31 Diamond St. is quick to reach from the highway. Convenient though not a picturesque location by any stretch of the imagination. Worked for us last weekend because outside tables (indoor seating too) gave us a space to sit with our dog.

We stopped there in the untouristed winter and now in the busy summer season. Their lobster roll game was strong on both visits.

Plus you can pop over to Coffee by Design afterwards to grab a cup for the road.

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Boulangerie in Kennebunk is a must if you go through town in the morning. Right near the pickleball courts.

I have a good Camden source; will circle back.

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BIM is a great choice for Lob rolls.

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Long Grain
Primo
Franny’s Bistro

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A thing to know about Long Grain: if, like me, you are allergic to shellfish (and I think neither you or @sallyt are, lucky you!!) there are precisely two things on the menu that are shellfish-free.

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And a thing to know about Nina June: the food is great; the greeting-and-seating thing is comically bad, has been since opening and has never improved in my experience. Get past that and you’ll have a great time.

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Another thought @sallyt. You may be taking 90 to Camden to avoid Rockland traffic but two places you’d miss are Atlantic Baking Company in Rockland, with superb French-style pastries made in-house (but get there early and they are closed Sundays) and Bleecker and Greer in Rockport (in the old red school house) which has a wonderful butcher counter and excellent meats to take back with you in a cooler. Opposite Atlantic Baking Company weekdays only Wiley’s serves up outstanding tacos at lunchtime. Both basically next to the Farnsworth Museum which is certainly worth a visit.

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