[Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia] Pork biryani at Meat the Porkers

Meat the Porkers by the folks behind the award-winning Fierce Curry House opened back in end-2016, offering pretty unusual North Indian dishes which used pork. I’d missed this place till just early this year, mainly because I moved to Penang from Kuala Lumpur around that time (end-2016), and my attention had shifted to the Penang dining scene, besides getting adjusted to life there.

In India, pork has never really been regarded as a meat of choice, or even edible, by the majority of Indians, except perhaps by the Goan Christians, who’d created amazing dishes like the Goan pork vindaloo.

But Indians in Malaysia are a different breed altogether - weaned on a diet which included Southern Chinese cuisine all their lives, Indian-Malaysians who are non-vegetarians have been exposed to hawker dishes and other Chinese dishes which utilized pork and lard all their lives.

Just as Chinese-Malaysians would have Indian banana leaf curry rice or paratha with dhal for their breakfast (quite unthinkable for their Chinese brethren from China, Hong Kong or Taiwan), Indian-Malaysians don’t think twice about having Cantonese wantan noodles or Teochew bak chor mee for their breakfast.

But at Meat the Porkers, the owners took it one step further - they actually prepared Northern Indian/Mughlai dishes using pork, in place of the ubiquitous chicken in their cuisine.

Our dinner consisted of:
Samosas filled with roast pork Hyderabadi

Pork butter masala

Dum biryani with “siew yoke” (Chinese roast pork) - sealed tight with dough, and steam-baked.

Dum biryani, with the seal broken, releasing the aroma of the spiced pork-ribs and perfumed rice

Tandoori eggplant masala

Frankly, does it work? IMO, it’s a vehement NO. :joy: :joy: :joy:
Many Indian recipes were conceptualized centuries ago, and the spice mix were tweaked to complement, and elevate, the taste of the meats they were designed to be used for.

A spice mix which works for chicken, if used for pork, does not automatically work. It could potentially turn out to be disastrous. In the case of Meat the Porkers’s pork biryani and those samosas filled with pork tikka masala, it veered very, very close to “fail”.

I love samosas, and I absolutely adore pork - but, even then, I was scraping out the filling of the samosas so I could eat only the crisp pastry - some things just don’t work together. :expressionless:

Meat The Porkers
9M, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara
50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Tel: +6019-987 1945
Opening hours: 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm daily, except Tuesday (closed).


Gorgeous looking meal, too bad it amounts to nothing. Sometimes it’s best not to mess with traditional combinations of spices and ingredients.

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Yes, traditional spice mixes have evolved and been tweaked over centuries to suit their specific needs, and for good reason. To simply use them for a different meat, as was the case here, simply threw the balance of flavors off-kilter. I love the traditional butter chicken - but the same spices, cooked with pork, made the whole dish too sweet and cloyingly-rich. I took just one mouthful, and simply couldn’t muster another.

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The name of the restaurant is hilarious!


The owners are obviously Ben Stiller (or maybe Robert de Niro) fans! :joy:


The question then, is the pork biryani popular with others?

I can’t really imagine pork and Indian spices mixing together. They just seem to work a lot better with chicken and goat :smiley:

The restaurant is still doing quite good business, but I still think it’s more the “novelty factor” than anything else.

Exactly, certain condiments and combination of spices were designed specifically for certain meats - one can’t simply substitute one meat for another without tweaking the seasoning. Most of the dishes here seemed so “wrong” in terms of taste - like the balance of flavours have all been thrown off kilter.

There are parts of India (the catholic community along the konkan coast, around the regions of Goa and Mangalore) where pork is consumed a fair bit. Dishes like sorpotel, vindaloo and some other local dishes with generic names like “durra-maas” (which literally means pork meat) eaten with variations of idles and dosas. I suspect most of them have some of their origins in the way the Portuguese cooked it along with a blend of Indian spices

Its also quite common in north-eastern India (Manipur and Meghalaya?), but I’ve not been there to know enough and comment, but friends who visited those places last year were raving about it!


I’m really interested in Manipur/Meghalaya food. Seems like a relatively undiscovered foodway…

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