I have yeat to experience rust on carbon knives. Not even shirogami( witch is considered to most rustprone) I have 20+ carbon knives in many different kind of carbon steels. I never oil them or baby them. Use them, dry them and leave them on the counter 5 minutes before putting them in the drawer.
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Similar experience, save for the fact I inherited that Revere Ware. back in the 50s and early 60s it was the go-to.
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You might try Fluid Film, a lanolin-based rust preventative.
My carbon steel knives have spent years in humid places like Houston. I steel them, use them, rinse them, and wipe them. I have never had rust issues. I never considered oiling them. Although they have decades of patina, leaving one on the board after slicing lemons will leave black spots. They don’t seem to affect anything. So I just keep using them, and over time they return to normal patina.
I am actually surprised that Revereware just disappeared. I remember them as being rather popular.
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They were. The original company I think went bankrupt in the 80s and they sold the Revereware component to Corning. Corning was in turn sold to World kitchen. And it looks like ineptitude killed the brand off. The vintage stuff is quite sought after.
I’m just telling it how it happened.
I have personally had rust spots on one off my Miyabi ZDP-189 knives. It was stored alongside my other knives on my magnetic Wüsthof knife-block stand.
ZDP-189 is only a semi stainless steel and I always wipe my 3 Miyabi ZDP-189 knives down before storing them away on my knife magnet.
Yet my ZDP-189 Rocking Santoku developed a lot of rust spots just from being stored on a knife magnet.
I’m not buying anymore ZDP-189 knives as they also are quite labour intensive to sharpen. SG2 steel to me is a clearly better type steel in my personal opinion.
I don’t think anyone is doubting you, Claus; just sharing experiences. Rust spots are just ugly and doubtfully impact the performance of the knives. My first fave knife as a cheap-o Chinese cleaver (CS) and I had no idea how to handle CS knives at the time, so, the first time I washed it, I let it dry and came back to find rust. That’s when I self learned that I need oil on that bad boy. Looked like a murder weapon, but did the job for many many years. Just visual proof I used the sucker, and plenty.
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ZDP-189 is indeed a mouthfull to sharpen. The key is to use the right stone. Some ceramic works okay. Diamant stones are preferable for ZDP-189.
Another and probably more important factor is that Miyabis are actually pretty thick behind the edge. A fat edge is always harder to sharpen then a thin one.
ZDP-189 is normally not rustprone. It might not be as stainless as a Zwilling or Fdick. But would normally not cause problems. Was the rust on the side of the knife, or on the edge? Its only the core steel that is ZDP. If the spots are on the side. Its not the ZDP but the clad steel that are rusting.
My best bid is that the knifeblok hold on to moisture when storing the knifes.
The rust spots are only on the outside of the ZDP-189 knufe, so it’s most definitely not the knife block holding onto moisture
I’m 99% sure it’s simply the surroundings in my kitchen that did it.
I own 40-45 kitchen knives and this particular Miyabi ZDP-189 Rocking Santoku had been stored on the knife block out in the open facing the area where we prep vegetables and do other daily stuff.
My guess is the blade already to start with was more rust prone than my other two Miyabi ZDP-189 knives and while sitting there for maybe 2-3 years without being used it has attracted rust marks from drops of water/lemon what ever has been made in that kitchen over the years.
Yes. I have knives stored in my kitchen out in the open that I haven’t used for 3-4 years or barely have used because I own so many different knives and favour a few of them by using them much more than others.
What type of diamond stones do you own ?
I only use my Naniwa Chosera Pro whetstones.
I own then in grit #400, #600, #800, #1200, #1600, #2000, #3000 and #5000.
When I sharpen the ZDP-189 I’ve used the #800 to start with and then go to the #3000 and finish with the #5000 and a leather strop.
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I have had to stop adding knives to the collection for a while. I have them in cases, rolls, boxes, drawers (with edge protectors or in packaging) and on the magnetic strip and on and on. I started giving some away, but realized I can’t part with anymore. I love to sharpen and hone them all, but now there’s nothing to sharpen for myself so I do it for other people just to keep going.
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I don’t own any diamond stones. I’m not into powder steels myself… so I don’t really need them. My only powder steel knife is a Nigara in SG2. When sharpening that one or other powder steels for friends I normally just use my shapton pros ceramic stones. I go #1000-#3000-#5000. Sometimes I stop at #3000 if I want an edge with some extra bite.
I have never used the chosera pro myself. But it is my understanding it should be okay for powder steels too.
If I where you. I would bring them to a pro sharpener like Tetogi in Hvidovre and get it thinned. Will make sharpening way easier.
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That Nigara is the one I have been coveting.
It is a really nice cutter
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Another reason I like carbon steel is that two stones, a 500 and a 1000, are plenty. Frankly, they all stay sharp enough that a little time with 1000 every few months is enough. BTW, I also use an F. Dick 14" sapphire, a terrific steel.
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Well I’m not into having other people sharpening or thinning my knives.
That’s why I took sharpening up myself in the first place.
I really enjoy the look of the Miyabi MCD5000 67 so I would never ever have it thinned before it’s a real necessity.
It also cuts extremely nicely, so why would I have it thinned.
They are ultra sharp, and I can keep them ultra sharp by just using a ceramic honing rod and 2 of my Dickoron steels. If it can cut through a piece of paper with ease it’s more than sharp enough for me.
In my opinion people exaggerate on so many levels when it comes to knives and sharpening of them.
Yes I own an abundance of whetstones but I only really need 2 perhaps 3 and then a leather strop to keep my knives ultra sharp.
Many of my knives I can keep ultra sharp by just honing them on my two fine ceramic rods and one of my 3 Dickoron honing steels.
I don’t need my knives to be razor sharp, just god darn sharp.
I shave with a DE razor using a DE razor blade, a kitchen knife just has to be ultra sharp not razor sharp.
My suggestion to get it thinned was due to your comment about the knife being difficult to sharpen.
And I guarantee you that your knife wont change any visual appearance because of a thinning. In fact all knives no matter what steel and maker will sooner or later need a thinning when it’s bin sharpened enough times. Every sharpening removes a bit of metal. And when enough metal has bin removed it will get fat behind the edge.
Most ceramic rods are too coarse to my taste, and using steel rods on a zdp189 knife wont make any sense due to a number of reasons. Mainly the fact that a steel doesn’t sharpen, but realign a rolled edge. The edge on your miyabi don’t role, but is worn away. Another reason is that your knife is pretty likely to be harder then your honing steel.
2-4 strokes on leather every time you use the knive. Then occasional 8-10 edgeleading strokes on a fine stone. How often depends how much you use the knife.
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It depends on the steel. Many do sharpen. It depends on the “cut” or fluting. And there are all grades of cut abrasiveness, from “standard” down through extra fine, before you get to something that only realigns edges, commonly referred to as a “polish” cut. See, https://www.dick.de/messer/en/sharpening/sharpening-steels/standard-cut
I have several F. Dick steels that were–and are–used for light, i.e., touch-up, sharpening.
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I stand corrected. You are right.
My point regarding alligning steel was pointed towards polished or very fine steel like the Fdick Micro.
I will however still claim that steels in general make no sense on a ZDP189 knife.
It depends on the honing steel used, doesn’t it ?
As far as I know you will always experience a rolled edge, even on powder steel blades with very high Rockwell hardness.
So you just need a steel with a hardness above the steel you’re honing to help get the edge rolled back or am I wrong here ?
ZDP-189 has a Rockwell of 66-67. Dickoron honing steels has about the same hardness according to a F.Dick rep I talked to.
So if you don’t overdo it with too high pressure you should be able to hone a knife with a ZDP-189 blade.
My ceramic honing rods also work great as they are much harder than steel.
