Induction vs. gas, a US-based dilemma

To be fair, there is a big difference of believing in Jim Jones, and believing induction cooking has better energy efficiency.

The origin of the phrase is Jonestown.

Well, you ARE making fun of Flat Earthers. Eveyone should.

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This is wrong, but God Bless.

Perhaps it is wrong but that is what I have always heard is the source. If you have another, please post a link to it

It’s already been posted.

I’ve been busy for a few days and will respond to all the great answers I got here soon. Just didn’t want you to think I posted and ran. I really appreciate all the help and opinions given.

Oh good. Maybe that get things back on topic. I’m sorry if this was already answered but what kind of gas are you talking about? Natural or LP. If LP, I have a few comments that might be relevant to your decision making.

It would be LP.

If you decide to switch to gas you will want to pay attention to the BTU of the burners. I did not know when I bought mine that with some manufactures the LP conversion kit lowers the BTU. It is not always easy info to find, and it is not always a big deal but something to be aware of. A Monogram Dual fuel I have been looking at lowers two of the burners by 3000 BTU’s. The highest one stays the same which is good. Some manufactures lower the high one. I can’t remember which one that was that I was looking at but it lowered the high burner by at least 2000 BTU’s .

I grew up with Natural gas ranges and have been using LP for the last 22 years. It might just be my range, but it does not perform as well as natural gas for me. It just does not get hot enough for proper searing or to maintain a boil. Maybe the conversion was not done properly. While looking this issue up I came across instructions for LP conversion at high altitudes. I am now wondering if it was assumed that I was at a high altitude, and they used the high-altitude kit. I don’t know how that might affect things. I’m at about 500 ft. I am pretty ignorant about such things. Maybe someone reading this can educate me about it.

My point being, just keep an eye on the conversion kit. I never trust specifications listed on sales websites. I was just looking at a Wolf Dual fuel which shows the LP having the same BTU’s as Natural but I won’t believe it until I find the LP conversion instructions.

It is my unhappiness with the propane that has me considering induction. I have been replacing my propane appliances with electric as they break. I do think I will miss gas. So, I’m torn. My issue with propane is not just my experience with performance but the cost of propane. I just deleted a long rant, but I don’t know why people think having propane somehow “gets you off the grid.” You still have to deal with the propane company. I hate the company I am dealing with. At least I can vote for who controls my PUD. Here I go starting my rant again.

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Well, that’s one factor. Starting with the fuel itself, LP has almost twice the energy as NG by volume. However, you have pressure regulators (gas will be at your main, LP usually at the tank AND somewhere in between the tank and the appliance). And you have the jets (orifices) at each burner.

Because LP is substantially more power, and because these ranges are designed for NG, the conversion kits tend to “dumb down” the appliances to what the makers believe won’t get them sued or run afoul of fire and building codes.

You can pimp these out however you think prudent, An aftermarket adjustable pressure regulator might be a good simple way to start. I have one on my outdoor wok burner; opened up pretty far, it does 180KBtu off of a 20-lb propane bottle.

Thank you for the info. An outdoor wok sounds fun! It took me a few years to understand why my LP range did not run so hot since I did know that LP has more energy. My LP drier certainly dried clothes faster than my electric does. I tend to play things safe so I will skip aftermarket options. My attitude might be different for an appliance used outside with small bottles of LP but probably not. I live in a very fire sensitive area. Unfortunately, my tank is rented (part of my deleted rant) so I probably can’t mess around too much with the pressure regulator anyway. tp50 might be more of a risk taker than I am.

YW. I understand. I just wanted you to know that if the conversion kit installation leaves you thinking your appliance is underpowered, it’s not propane’s fault, and there are things you can do. Good Luck.

Just a point of clarification for those with a fascination for historical detail: Kool-aid wasn’t the chosen beverage in Jonestown, it was Flavor-aid.

Correct!
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My father forbade me from using brand names to name products. Examples: I was to say cotton swabs, not Q-Tips, ice pops, not popsicles, box cutter, not Xacto knife. I wasn’t even permitted to say aspirin.

Unfortunately, most people use brands to describe products. The makers of Kool-Aid probably wish that more people were like my father.

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That’s an interesting note, Ellen. By chance, was your dad an IP/Trademark lawyer? Or someone who dealt with such issues?

Because what you wrote really echoes (Echo… Echo… Echo) with this IP lawyer.

Echoes with me, too. Let reach for my Kleenex, before I go and Xerox these papers. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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My father was a classical string bass player. He played with the LA Philharmonic for many years.

I don’t know why brand vs. generic was important to him, but it sure was.

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Sometimes it comes down to just individuals’ idiosyncrasies, I guess.

Sometimes referring to a tool by its original or most popular brand can be a valuable shorthand. For example, what else would you call a Tutove?