I live in a NYC condo. My range died and I was up to get induction. This plan was foiled by the need to have a 220 outlet. According to our electrician, it is not a big deal if the item draws 20 amps or less, but a very big deal ( kind of impossible without oening walls, etc.) if the item draws more, and induction ranges all seem to draw 40. So we ordered another gas range. I hope this info might help someone at least know what to ask. I suspect in a house the matter is much simpler.
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Welcome!
Other than a few convenience factors, I think you’ll ultimately be happier with gas. You can always try a 110v portable induction hotplate i you think you’re missing out…
Thank you, Kaleo! I have always liked gas, and no need to experiment. My interest was safety and heat in the kitchen.
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Hi palomalou,
I’ve used individual lower voltage induction units for about 6 years now–side by side–and I’m now adding Ovente infrared–with several separate ovens of different sizes.
Works fine.
Ray
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Ray, Ovente is a great example of an induction manufacturer misleading consumers:
“Electromagnetic Induction Technology doesn’t transfer heat to cookware like a conventional range, it makes the cookware itself the heat generator, which means it evenly cooks your food without leaving any cold or hot spots.” (Emphasis mine).
The italicized claim is completely untrue.
Are you referring to the Ovente products specifically, or induction in general?
I’m quoting Ovente specifically, so obviously yes.
However, at least as mostly all induction hobs are currently configured, any such claim made by others is also misleadingly false.
So let’s make it both.
I would disagree with that if you are including 220V induction cooktops. My experience has been that a good induction cooktop heats more evenly than anything else out there, provided the hob you use fits the pan.
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Nothing compares to cooking with a flame.
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Kaleo,
Ovente is not an induction manufacturer for the unit I purchased: It’s infrared.
Ray
Disagree all you like. There is nothing intrinsic to 220v induction appliances that makes them less uneven than PICs. They’re all generally uneven.
If the size of the coil is matched perfectly to the pan, and that pan has a thick conductive construction, then evenness can be OK. Otherwise not. If excellent evenness is desired, resort must be made to very thick disk base pan constructions.
Agreed! Gas gives you uneven heat, carbon monoxide, a fuel that is environmentally unsustainable, and fire in an indoor kitchen.
Whereas the lowly induction only gives you 200% greater efficiency, superior low temp control, faster high temps, timed cooking/warm settings, easier cleaning, and safety shut offs.
No comparison indeed.
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220V simply means there is enough current to support larger coils for larger pans. Not sure what a PIC is… so you are comparing the unevenness of induction to gas?
Hi SP,
I’m sure we mostly agree, but this type of comment has lead to numerous Chowhound acrimonious dialogues that have gone to hundreds of posts that then were repeated over and over.
Button up your jacket–carry a raincoat–turn on your air conditioner and get some lemonade. (choose your favorite).
Ray
PIC = Portable induction cooktop.
Coils typically aren’t sized by current or wattage. Some fullsize appliances have larger-diameter coils than do many PICs, which are more limited to size by the size of the appliance’s case and reinforcement. But both fullsize and PICS’ coils generally fall in the 7-9" diameter range, despite what’s painted on the glass.
220v units exist because 110v units effectively have an 1800W/15 amp upper limit, which isn’t enough for sizable boils or dividing between several active hobs. This is true with all 110v hotplates.
I’m comparing induction to everything else. Yes, gas is generally more even, as are calrod coil, radiant and ceramic. I’m sure we could find some rare counterexamples of crappy builders’ grade conventional appliances running against $$$ multi-coil induction ones.
Hi lynn,
It’s not so simple. Gas is a dinosaur–on it’s way out–and it probably never should have survived this long in the home.
I have gas, 220, and 110 in my small house–and I use all three: gas for heat and hot water, 220 for my fridge, and 110 for everything else, incl. hobs, oven, and microwave.
Once I purchased compatible cookware, my cooking improved–and I benefited from induction safety “turnoffs” several times. Despite efforts to reduce gas use, my gas bill has climbed, whereas my electric has remained stable despite increased use.
Better deal with the dinosaur before it does you in.
Ray
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Welcome, @palomalou. FYI I had a Bosch 500 induction full-size cooktop installed 5 years ago and a 220 outlet was not required. It has performed beautifully and we all love it. It is more responsive than cooking with gas, IMO.
I do live in a house. I did have an electrician to check the existing wiring to determine if it would support the cooktop before ordering it; he said there would be no problem.
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Ok, I actually have one of these (because my 220V cooktop can’t be powered by the generator when PG&E can’t keep the power on). I actually use it for delicate sauces and omelets regardless, and it does a better job than either my propane or 220V cooktops.
YMMV, but many induction cooktops actually have coils bigger than 9", with some way bigger that are actually smart (sensing the size of the pan and activating the necessary area).
My propane cooktop is a high line GE Profile, and it is nowhere near as even as my 220V ceramic or induction units (and this is not conjecture - I have actually measured it using clad SS, cast iron, and aluminum non-stick.
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Let’s see your data and methodology.
What are the makes and models of your 220v induction and ceramic appliances?
To be clear, my two kitchens have a 36" 220V Frigidaire Gallery ceramic, a 30" GE Profile propane cooktop, and a Tramontina 110v PIC. My experience with a 220V Miele Induction cooktop was a couple of weeks spent with friends during the CalDor fire evacuation.
How about your data and methodology?
