Hong Kong 2024 -- First Visit

Preparing for my first visit to Hong Kong – next week!

Have perused all the old report threads, and they have me so excited about everything there is to eat and to explore! (I am actually worried that this is going to seriously affect my enjoyment of Chinese food anywhere else… hmm.)

I’m staying in Chung Hom Kok and there will be a bunch of other friends in town, so several meals and activities will be organized / planned by the locals, but I should have a good bit of flexibility on adding to that framework.

So far I’ve focused on what foods I’d like to try there, will expand that to experiences as I continue my research (haha – start with the food, always). Focusing on Cantonese first, but I think Hong Kong will have better other regional Chinese and other Asian food than the US does, so I’m going to look into those as well.

Open to input & advice from those who have traveled in the area (have read @Google_Gourmet, @damiano, and @naf’s old reports closely).

On my to-eat list so far:
DIm sum / yum cha – as much as I can squeeze in, with 1 stop at a high end place just for interest
Cheung fun (including the crispy / za leung kind with the youtiao inside)
Roast meats plus – Char siu, bbq ribs, roast duck, roast goose (never tried), plus soy sauce chicken and white cut chicken and/or hainanese chicken, maybe roast squab (which I’ve read about here a lot from @Google_Gourmet)
Clay pot rice
Cha chaan tengs
Wonton soup (wish @THECHARLES’ explorations from chowhound days were still accesible!)
Hotpot
Regional cuisines like Shunde and Chiu Chow (love the braised duck in NYC which I understand is an adaptation of goose, and the curry chicken and beef noodles)
Cantonese banquet – wondering if I should propose this for the group, as we have enough people for it to make sense, and I’ve never experienced it in the US
Cantonese high end – either/or vs banquet
Islands / Seafood – I read the reports about Sai Kung, not sure if it will fit into the rest of the plan, but perhaps a wet market stop on HK Island and having a stall nearby cook the catch would satisfy this
Night market
Noodles – wondering if there’s somewhere that specializes in E-fu noodles, and also curious about the crabmeat noodles at Fu Sing given @klyeoh’s unequivocal praise of them!
XLB / soup dumplings / xiao long bao

Anything obvious missing?

(Strikes me that there are probably outlets of Malaysian jerky specialists in HK which I might seek out to bring some back, as I was silly enough not to carry any back when I transited via Singapore last year.)

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How exciting! Hong Kong is one my favourite food destinations in the world.

This youtube clip is a good start, also to get you in the mood. Wing Fat, the last restaurant in the clip, is one of my favourite places. Right on Temple Street night market. They also have great squab as you will see.

Dim sum: I’d definitely go to a place with traditional carts! It’s just the most fun experience. In fact, I’d crave for it to come back in more modern settings. A more high end dim sum place is Ming Court in Mongkok. Downstairs, in Nelson Street, you will find one of the most exciting food markets I’ve ever been to. Other notable more regular dim sum spots are Maxim’s Palace (I like the one in Central), One Dim Sum (ditto Central), and Lei Garden (Causeway Bay is a nice one).

Roast meats: I’d definitely try the goose. Kam’s is great but you don’t want to waste time waiting in line, so if you go, go right before they open.

This is a good overview of roast goose places.

What I personally also like to do in Hong Kong is check out the hipster spots in Central and Sheung Wan, eg natural wine bars. And for first timers perhaps having afternoon tea at the Peninsula Hotel.

I’ll leave it at this for now. Let us know if you have any follow up questions.

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Sadly, I understand that Fu Sing has closed down.

Realising now that I didn’t actually mention any traditional places with push carts for dim sum. Here is a video of three popular ones, including Lin Heung Kui which was also in the previous youtube video. https://youtu.be/uaqPAnD-DUQ?si=Z3XlnkeBH54NGYFy

Not mentioned is London Restaurant, a very traditional push cart dim sum place on Nathan Road. If you want a proper local experience this is the place. Nobody speaks English, you are left to your own devices. A very big room filled with incredibly loud and boisterous old people lol. Honestly, from my previous few visits to HK, this was a standout because of the local atmosphere. Other standout places which I liked the most were Wing Fat Seafood as already mentioned, and Oi Man Sang.

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You’ll have a great time. It’s been a few years for me, so I’m sure the landscape has changed a lot, but I’ve always found good food just about anywhere you go. I love the smaller, neighborhood joins.

Claypot rice might be hard to find in August. Usually mid September at the earliest is when they start to pop up, but it’s a ‘cold’ (relative cold) season food, so it usually starts to pop up in the fall. Maybe someone has finally decided that it’s great at any time, and is bucking the trend! In my opinion, the best versions of these are the small local restaurants who heat their claypots over fire outside, and you get that nice charred slightly smokey rice inside.

Is having meals on a near the typhoon shelter still a thing in HK? They usually offer pretty good seafood meals as well, and even have their own style “typhoon shelter” style.

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This is great! I’ll revisit for our own HK trip, which is still well over a year from now (but why not plan early? :stuck_out_tongue:), when our buddy will be there for a teaching gig after retiring here. No doubt he’ll have his own favorites, but I’ll share a few of yours to get his opinion. He won’t be shy about them, either :grin:

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@THECHARLES might have some ideas and recs, too!

I’m intrigued by some of the Hong Kong Café dishes, like Honk Kong Borscht/ Luo Song Tong.

I’ll just park this here as a starting point.

I’m already looking forward to your report!

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Well that’s a pity — I love crab and that was quite a recommendation!

What is the name of that dish? Maybe I can seek it out elsewhere.

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As for high end Cantonese, maybe consider lunch with a view at either Lung King Heen (view of Kowloon) or Lai ching Heen (view of Island). Fresh abalone or steamed garoupa are the ticket.

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Its wonton noodle soup. Wonton soup is generally American.

Starz Kitchen got my vote. Mak’s on Wellington in Central is also fine. There are a few others that are also fine so it depends on which neighborhoods you are in.

Western District, Prince Edward, Shau Kei Wan (close to you) has quite a lot of Chiu Chow. I spent my only meal in Hong Kong last week in Tak Kee in Western District. But you got a lot of choices here.

I don’t have a suggestion. XLB is not Cantonese. Cantonese joints generally don’t do a good job with it. I have had very good one and very average one at Din Tai Fung.

Ap Lei Chau (which is decently close to you, since you are on the south side of the island already) wet market downstairs to shop for seafood, and the stalls upstairs in the cooked market to cook. The stalls often don’t open during the day. You need a local to help reserve a table and help you shop.

Easier, just go to Star Seafood.

Maybe Sham Shui Po. But its so hot and humid these days.

The Chairman? Tasting Court (private kitchen)- whatsapp them to reserve and design a menu for the group. though I am not up to date with the latest high end.

Yes.

You are missing porridge.

Its the summer. skip.

I like https://www.openrice.com/en/hongkong/r-san-xi-lou-mid-levels-sichuan-r21564 but its out of the way for the group. Maybe combine with peak tram. Try water boiled fish with a good fresh fish and it will change your opinion of the dish forever.

I personally would plan my activities first, so I figure out where I need to be, and then I figure out the good eateries around those neighborhoods. Easier that way. There are good eateries all around town.

Since you are in Chung Hom Kok, consider Ocean Park. The gondola gives you a truly spectacular view of Repulse Bay and Deep Water Bay. The cafe up on the hill has the same view. Expensive but average cafe food. But the view is great. I once had a meal there while it just started thundering and storming. It was spectacular. One of the roller coasters also has a great view of Ap Lei Chau and Aberdeen. And they got pandas. Go eat seafood at Ap Lei Chau afterwards.

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Bookmarking your recommendations as well.

Wonton Noodle Soup - Shing Kee ( Parkes street, Jordan )
- Mak ( An ) Kee ( Sheung Wan )
- Mak Siu Kee ( Happy Valley )
- Tasty’s ( IFC )
( The iconic Mak’s nowadays are overrated & overpriced…avoid branches, head to flagship instead )

**** Roasted Goose** -** Kamcenter ( Caroline Hill Rd, Causeway Bay )

High-end Chinese ( Cantonese ) - 7th Son ( Wan Chai )
- WING ( Central )
- The Chairman ( Sheung Wan )
- Man-Ho ( JW Marriott )
- Yan-Toh-Heen ( TST, Kowloon )
Good luck with reservation!

Dim Sum - Forum ( Wan Chai )
- Luk Yu Tea House ( Central )
- if you want to try Tim Ho Wan, go to Sham Shui Po branch…best amongst all branches

HAVE FUN!!

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Have fun, Hong Kong is a great food city! I’ve been to Hong Kong a few times, most recently back in late 2018. I haven’t gotten around to writing that up yet. Maybe one of these years.

Looking at your list, here’s some notes/recommendations from my most recent visit (6 years ago!).

Dim Sum - I had some really good dim sum at Lei Garden in the IFC mall (Central). It’s a bit upscale and there are multiple locations. No carts here.

Chiu Chow - I had some very good Chiu Chow food at Carrianna Chiu Chow Cuisine in Wan Chai. Delicious Chiu Chow style roast goose with tofu, oyster omelette, flower crab, and more. Strong “kung-fu” tea came with the meal.

Cha Chaan Teng
Australia Dairy Company (Jordan) - they are famous for rude service (they were perfectly nice to me) and their scrambled eggs, which are indeed delicious. And also their steamed milk pudding which I didn’t try.
Shui Kee Coffee (Sheung Wan) - this place is a stall in the Sheung Wan Market. I enjoyed their HK style French toast and also cold milk tea which they serve out of cola bottles.

Wonton Noodle Soup
I had some very good wonton noodles from Mak’s Noodles in Central, Tasty Congee & Noodle in the IFC mall, and Ho Hung Kee in Causeway Bay. I also had a very good cheung fun from Ho Hung Kee. There’s a bunch of Mak’s or Mak related wonton noodle places around HK run by members of the same family I believe. I may not have gone to the best Mak’s (Mak An Kee seems to be recommended more), but the ones at Mak’s Noodle were the best I had in my HK trip, though the other places were great as well.

Roast Goose
The roast goose leg I had at Yat Lok (Central) was excellent.

E-Fu noodles
Since you mentioned e-fu noodles, maybe take a look at Kau Kee in Central. I had some really good beef noodle soup there, but I had it with rice noodles rather than the e-fu noodles that I later found out they are more known for. You can get it in a clear broth or with curry soup.

XLB / soup dumplings / xiao long bao
I had some very good XLB and other Shanghai dishes such as river shrimp, Shanghai wonton soup, and hairy crab with tofu at Hong Kong Old Restaurant in Central. Despite its name it is a Shanghainese restaurant.

Other things to try
Dan Tat / Egg Custard Tart - Tai Cheong (Central, other locations) has a good shortcrust version, and Honolulu Coffee Shop (Wan Chai) has a good flaky crust version.
Bolo Bao / Pineapple Bun - a pineapple bun has no pineapple but has a topping that looks like pineapple. Try one with a slice of cold butter inside.
Congee - I had a very good fish congee at San Kee in Sheung Wan. They specialize in fish congee.
Sai Kung - If you have some time and are into seafood, Sai Kung is definitely worth checking out. There is a street with restaurants that have live tanks outside where you can select what you want and have it prepared to your liking (e.g. steamed with clear noodles, deep fried salt and pepper style, etc.)
Dai Pai Dong - I don’t think I’ve been to a dai pai dong, which are licensed outdoor food stalls, but they are part of HK food culture that is in decline and may be worth checking out.
Bars - If you are into cocktails, The Old Man in Central has some really good ones.

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Thank you, everyone!

I will bring some order and alignement to my food and sightseeing thoughts in the next couple of days.

Will have to tweak the framework they’ve sent me a bit (as in, I don’t particularly want to eat French food or club food even if they are really good, but I may have to in order to hang out with some folks).

I’ve proposed a banquet and the reception was pretty positive so let’s see where we go with that.

A few Bib places look interesting too, still working my way down the list.

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I don’t love pineapple buns in nyc so didn’t expect much at kam wah cafe, instead I found it hard not to order another bun or three.

Pretty sure Charles sent me to kamcenter, if I had one regret on the trip it was waiting until the end to try roast goose, it was so good, we had it twice in 3 days.

I followed the lines at the night market, a lot of fun!

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Ref: Starz Kitchen
This joint venture of a couple of HK movie stars used to be one of my favorites for Won-Ton Noodles and Congees ( especially the ‘yellow-sand’ pig’s liver version ) . Sadly, my last experience with their Won-Ton noodles was forgettable and totally disappointing. The essential ’ Sun Dried Flounder ’ component of the broth was surprisingly and glaringly missing, rendering this ’ soul component ’ one dimensional tasting and lacking complexity.

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Oh no. When was this disappointing meal?

Whoops, the name of the restaurant is Sang Kee Congee Shop https://g.co/kgs/Ni2pbwZ

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" Trusty Congee King " in Wan Chai offers equally good congee products and ambience is more comfortable and better.

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When in HK, I can let friends choose where they want to bring me to eat, but the requirement has to be Chinese or Asian (Japanese , Thai… if they are really good). Zero western food. But since you are going out as a group, it will be nice to go to those bigger places to taste more food. Check out the instagram of growing_boy, there are some amazing roast pigs places that is difficult to go alone.

You can always double check your choice with the local food guide www.openrice.com/en/hongkong. 4 out of 5 is considered good. 3.5 is quite ok, as the locals are quite critical and demanding.

Moon festival is coming up soon, you can try to bring moon cakes home.

Try to read more recent reviews, as HK is undergoing a lot of changes, many places close earlier at night compared to few years ago.

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