I did my first Hop on/off in Barcelona, then another one in Lisbon. Great way to see the city when you have limited time there.
2 Likes
The Barcelona Hop On bus was a good time! I stopped at Sagrada Familia and the one thing I remember most clearly about Barcelona is the incredible detail of that building, and the fact that it seemed incredibly apt that the designers name is Gaudy/Gaudi.
This Catholic boy was almost Puritan in his outlook on religious decorations by the end of that tour… LOL!
But what a beautiful building! I wish I could see it with fewer people but it is deservedly popular.
2 Likes
The Cretans (the male population specifically) were a little more welcoming to a 16yr old German girl than anticipated or wanted, TBH.
Being followed into the ladies’ room and other behavior I’d not experienced elsewhere in Greece. Hopefully, that’s changed in the meantime.
3 Likes
“Into”? That is just wrong.
Your first paragraph was bad enough but in the second one their behavior was even worse.
Unfortunately, I could see that happening back in the day.
Hopefully not today, but changes for the better usually occur slower than we would wish.
1 Like
And that’s not even half of it, but elaborating would greatly go beyond the boundaries of our discussion here.
I loved the food & the beach, Knossos & Heraklion. A good friend of mine may be celebrating her 50th in Crete this May. Good chance to find out how things are these days 
Although given my ripe age, I’m unlikely to be on anyone’s radar 
1 Like
Crete is a bit like Montana, in terms of Montana: USA and Crete: Greece
1 Like
Flew into Athens from Crete late, have I mentioned how much I like the the €9 train/subway tickets? But I got in kind of late so I just schlepped into the first tourist cafe and ordered Palavas ouzo, lamb and potatoes. And Greek Stories did a fairly good job on the lamb and the Palavas was a nice surprise. Slightly less sweet and very smooth. Nice meal.
Athens in February. Cold and windy. Note to self: Come in late March or April next time!!! LOL!
So I went straight to my AirBNB and crashed out.
It was cold but crowded, which is like the worst of both worlds when it comes to touring Athens for me, but I figured if it is cold I would go indoors to start, so it was off to a made dish taverna, To Kati Allo that was between my apartment, the Acropolis museum and the Acropolis metro. And To Kati delivered the home made goods! Not fine dining but a very friendly welcome and simple but adequately spiced dishes. I went there 3 times in 4 days, they take Mondays off or it would have been 4.
First dish was a stuffed pork roll with potatoes on the side. They offered rice also but I went for the potatoes every time. Very rich pork and the stuffing had olives and rosemary I believe.
Next day I got beef kleftiko with potatoes and the beef was cut with a fork tender. Really liked this dish!
Final day both papa and mama greeted me with big smiles. I really enjoy the way good cooks enjoy seeing people truly enjoying the food they cook. For my final dish there I ordered what I think was stuffed zuccini with a huge pile of greens. Not spinach, slightly bitter but earthy. Very good meal!
But back to Athens itself! First day I was avoiding drizzling rain so I went into the Acropolis Museum for the afternoon and was transfixed. The age and the beauty of some of the pieces is incredible. The pair of horses had me trying several different angles trying for the right shot but I am not doing them justice.
The collection of friezes ( I had to check on the correct spelling of the plural) varied from nearly obliterated to stunning. Again, my photographs do not do them justice. And if I had a dollar for every negative comment I heard about Lord Elgin I could live a life of luxury in a manner befitting royalty. Even a lord perhaps… I plan on visiting the British Museum next week.
They have moved the 5 remaining Caryatids indoors and replaced them on the Erechteion with replicas.
Then I was off to wander some of the more touristy parts of Athens, the plaka section nearest the cliffs north and east of the Acropolis. A lot of up and down but the old building make it worth it. Oddly enough, yet again the wall art was my favorite part of the walk. These three kind of sum up the variety of artwork there.
The next day I was off to find a locals lunch and Diporto had not opened the doors to the stairs down so I walked past and hit Tis Theatrou which is just a hundred meters or so down the street. It has outdoors table for small dishes and indoors tables for ordering off the menu a la carte. I sat outside with the older gents, trying to stay on the correct side of the overhang to keep the rain off. I ordered black eyed peas and stuffed chili peppers and both were outstanding. The peas were dressed with an oil and vinegar mixture that was subtly spiced and simply delicious. The stuffed chili peppers were some sort of Feta like soft cheese, loved them! Add in a tin cup of house wine and i wss good to go.
The best part of the meal in some ways was listening to the table of older gents talking away. I speak no Greek but just hearing them was a pleasant part of the meal. I did a little shopping for warmer clothes and then visited Arcadia for one of the dishes I had been searching for over the past week. Lahanodolmades with Avgolemono sauce. I have loved this dish ever since I first had it in Fira. I have had it with rice and with potatoes and both are great. Now I come to one of life’s lessons that I have learned many times, and seemingly always forget. When I say something and the person I am talking to gets a glazed look in their eyes like they are trying to figure out how to tell me I am making a mistake… One day soon, I hope I learn to just stop and ask what they think, but I didn’t this time. So I ordered dolmadakia as a starter for my Lahanodolmades. Kind of similar dishes so I missed an opportunity. But both were good and the Lahanodolmades were a real treat! The lemon and egg combo is one of my favorites in Greece. I did not see any Youvarlakia (avgolemono) soup this trip so I will have to look closer next time. I also did not order a lot of seafood this trip, I need to do better next time.
Walked around the Acropolis for an hour, saw two young ladies walking their dogs. The dogs were completely mismatched except i the color of their fur. They made a cool scene.
The Acropolis itself is always awe inspiring. I try to go on Sunday mornings at 8am when the Greek Army has the Color Guard raise the flag. Unfortunately the sun is barely up so the photos are not that good.
I got a laugh out of this guard cat. She was on that stone in front of the house nearly every time i walked by. The location is just north of the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates. I had to enter that name just for the sound of it.
Then it was back to my apartment, a short nights sleep and off to the subway to get my flight to London. I really love Greece, I cannot wait to return!
10 Likes
The greens were probably horta, which is wild greens (dandelions, nettles, dock, et al).
I was at the Acropolis over 40 years ago. Yikes.
1 Like
The greens were good, but I had the feeling that in the past they were a Greek version of Yorkshire Pudding. Your parents fed you the greens/Yorkshire pudding first hoping you would eat a lot of the inexpensive food, then eat less of the expensive meat/protein and still leave the table feeling full. My father had a tough Depression and he was always concerned that all of us kids left the table full since he had gone to bed hungry as a child. I imagine that is more of a common thing than most of us in the West, now, realize.
3 Likes
Yes, originally peasant food to fill you up. Obviously still popular in economically rough times.
1 Like
I love your photos. I miss Greece.
2 Likes
Definitely a big plate of greens (Horta) for each person at home is traditional. Not only to fill people up, but to keep them regular
The North uses more cornmeal, and has the cornmeal pies and other cornmeal dishes.
Spanakorizo would be more common in the South and on the islands, for a dish that fills people up.
Also, it’s Lent now, so the people who observe subsist on vegetarian and pescatarian food until Easter. Tons of greens and tons of lentils and chickpeas.
The Orthodox started their Lent yesterday on Clean Monday.
1 Like
Cat looks so angy!! 
3 Likes
My friend is visiting Athens, Santorini and Mykonos over the next week.
Did you have a favourite in Athens this Winter, @ZivBnd ?
1 Like
I have to think a bit but Tis Theatrou was the first place that came to mind. It is a street table small plates place near Diporto and the Market. All locals and very “simple” dishes. I liked the food and the vibe, just old couples/groups shooting the breeze at their local. The beans and bread were good as were the stuffed peppers and house wine. Not fancy but fun.
2 Likes
I also really like Brettos Bar for their versions of liqueurs. Very nice staff, great selection of spirits. The video at the link is from Google maps and it gives a good feel for the place. Much more touristed, but still fun.
1 Like
Thank you!
1 Like
