Granada, Cordoba and Madrid trip

Regional Dining Discussions Italy, Spain, Portugal
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I’m so happy you reported back with the great pics! Again, I wanted to lick the screen!!

I’m still kicking myself for not going to FM when we were in Granada about 15 years ago…(read about it on CH!).

You really love your anchovies, girl!

I was confused by the word “callos” for the tuna dish. I guess it’s the tripe (??). But don’t ask me why tripe actually is!! Part of the intestine, or the stomach? I know its a signature dish of Madrid but made from cow.

I will be in a part of Andalucia next month, near Barbate, that is known for their red tuna restaurants. The restaurant I often lunch at (EL CAMPERO in Barbate) has a long menu of various tunas dishes that seem to use almost every part of the fish you can imagine. but nowhere on their menu did I see “callos de atun!!” So maybe you find something really unusual at FM.

Like everyone here, I’m so eager for the next installment…maybe we should take up a collection so you can spend a couple of weeks longer, as long as you keep up the reporting!!

PS. I did find an article, in Spanish, about the callos de atun, and were eaten only by fishermen as they had no market value. This article says that they ARE served at El CAMPERO, with the morcilla made from the heart of the fish.

I’ll see if Maribel notices this, as I’ve surely made mistakes in understanding the Spanish of the article.

The article comes from a site devoted to all things tuna!

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Erica, this meal … !! Get yourself back to Granada. And yes, i love anchovies. So much. The waiter spoke very good English and he couldn’t really come up with a clear explanation. Sort of a spicy broth, and definitely not for those who don’t like odd textures, but I liked it very much.

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Glad you liked it! I think it a a big step up from options in the area where the monuments are and the tourist neighborhoods. But remains traditional in the cuisine and service.

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erica1,
Angel León of Aponiente, 3 Michelin stars, the “chef del mar” in Puerto de Santa Maria, is doing much the same, using the “despojos” of tuna and other fish that no one traditionally would eat and that would simply go to waste.
He is passionate about this.
He gave a presentation at Madrid Fusión about his passion/obsession. Despite the price, I do want someday to go to Aponiente and order his charcutería del mar. He´s making seafood chorizo, morcilla, etc.

If you can, try to see the episode, 7th season of “Chef´s Table” on Netflix about Aponiente and Angel León and his passion for these “despojos”. A section of this episode was filmed at Antonio, and you’ll recognize Jerez, as another segment was filmed at the Tabanco el Pasaje.

el atún de almadraba=el cerdo del mar

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Is it a distant cousin of the Tuna Cadiz style that we had in Malaga and Granada? I think at this point you may know better what I ate :wink:
In Malaga I believe it was with tomato sauce, but dry in Granada. I actually preferred the dry version

I watched that Chef´s Table episode. That guy is crazy brilliant

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Yes, Angel León is indeed crazy brilliant! He has the passion, the intensity and the mission of José Andrés, who is actually a good friend of his.

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I never considered APONIENTE due to price and what I imagine is a VERY long meal. Will watch the program on tv tonight.

I wonder about "Cadiz-style tuna–I guess it could be one of any number of preparations with any variety of parts. (?)

Take a look the restaurant menu at EL CAMPERO; this is just the tuna section in the restaurant; there are other tuna dishes in the bar area, and others “fuera de carta.” (I’m on the waiting list for lunch on a Tuesday next month; I’ll go a few times since I have two weeks-plus this year)

Grilled tuna dorso cranial muscle, anyone???

CRUDO. (RAW)

Carpaccio de paladar con sorbete de lima y albahaca ® > 25
Top of the palate of tuna carpaccio with lime and basil sorbet.

Sashimi de ventresca aburi con yema de erizo > 30 / 45
Belly sashimi aburi.

Sashimi de lomo (descargado) > 22 / 33
White loin sashimi.

Sashimi de ventresca (toro) > 28 / 42
Belly sashimi.

Trilogía de sashimi (lomo, tarantelo y ventresca) > 21 / persona
Tri sashimi.

Surtido de crudo (tartar, lomo picante, tataki, sashimi lomo y ventresca) > 2 pers. / 42
Assortment of raw.

Tartar de lomo (descargado) > 23 / 29
Loin tartare (toro).

Tartar de ventresca (toro) > 34
Belly tartare (toro).

Tataki de descargamento (lomo negro) > 22 / 33
Black loin tataki.

Lomo picante, wakame y daikon > 26
Spicy loin,wakame and daikon.

Ceviche de lomo blanco > 26
White loin ceviche.

CALIENTE. (HOT)

Corazón a la plancha o aliñado > 12 / 16
Heart grill or seasoned.

Morrillo a la plancha (graso) > 34
Dorso cranial muscle grill (fatty).

Ventresca a la plancha (graso) > 29
Belly grill (fatty).

Tarantelo a la plancha (semigraso) > 28
Sirloin grill ( less fat).

Lomo a la plancha (seco) > 29
Loin grill ( low fat).

Chuleton de atún (ventresca, tarantelo y lomo) > 123/kg
Tuna Rib eye ( loin, sirloin and belly).

Parrillada de atún (Ventresca, tarantelo, parpatana y solomillo) > 36 / 72
Assortment bluefin tuna grill.

Costillas de atún asadas > 17 / 24
Tuna ribs roasted.

Parpatana asada con curry y coco > 28
Fatty part of the jaw baked (fatty).

Contramormo al horno (graso) > 34
Baked tuna head part.

Solomillo con salsa dulce picante (semigraso) > 28
Loin of tuna with sweet and
spicy sauce (less fat).

Facera (carrillada) con salsa de Oporto (graso) > 19 / 27
Tuna cheeks in pinenuts sauce (fatty).

Galete (cococha) estofado (graso) > 19 / 27
Fleshy parto f the jaw stev in dry.

Ventresca con salsa de miso y mostaza (graso) > 21 / 29
Belly with mustard and miso sauce (fatty).

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68

Yes, atún de almadraba, el cerdo del mar.
And as they say, “del cerdo, hasta los andares”. From the pork, or in this case, from the tuna, one takes advantage of every single piece.

Aponiente opens again in mid March as does the original location, which is in the hands of his wife,
La Taberna del Chef Del Mar.

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Um, insane. I wouldn’t know where to start with that, but I would love to try.

As my southern friends say “from the hooter to the tooter.”

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El Campero has a fabulous tasting menu where you will try 15 different areas of the tuna. When we went in 2022 it was 90 euros which we felt was a steal compared to Japan, the only similar quality tuna to the Almadraba.

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I took the train today and am now in very rainy Cordoba. It’s filled with wet, grumpy people celebrating Andalusia Day. I have a dinner reservation at Amaltea, recommended by Maribel, and I am looking forward to it. Menu looks very interesting and vegetarian friendly. After a few days of meals comprised of tapas and lots of animal protein, my body is looking forward to a little break. It’s a quick walk from my hotel.

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So pretty! Can’t wait to hear about tonight’s dinner!

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Hope you enjoy your vegetarian friendly dinner! Plus, I hope you enjoy strolling the Roman bridge illuminated at night. It’s so pretty!

And 2 my favorite non-sherry, Andalusian D.O. wines are Forlong from El Puerto de Santa Maria, Cádiz and F. Schatz from Ronda, Málaga. Wines from both producers should be on the wine list.

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Made it out to Amaltea for dinner, and then … ordered shrimp as my main. So much for sticking with vegetarian! The room is very pretty and colorful. Service friendly and helpful. I started with grilled asparagus and cherry tomatoes with peanut mole. Not totally sure what the tomatoes were doing here, but I liked them. This is definitely not what I would call a mole, more like just a scoop of natural peanut butter on the side. But oh, those asparagus were just what I wanted.

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For my main, I asked how the shrimp were cooked. They aren’t, the waitress replied. So basically sort of a ceviche type of thing. The menu calls it Shrimp with kimchi Tartar with potato salad. It was delicious and delicate.

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No one asked me about dessert and it was probably too cold for the mango soup with vanilla ice cream that I had my eye on, and overall probably for the best. I really enjoyed this meal. Likely back to tapas only today, although my hotel has a breakfast that I bill check out. Not a breakfast person but a pastry might make me very happy in lieu of that missed dessert. :wink:

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Such beautiful photos…Food looks delicious! I am really enjoying your trip, and really missing Spain.

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I love all those little alley ways and old buildings. Makes me miss Europe.

Only two more months :star_struck:

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Where will you go? Excited for you.

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Madrid I will definitely have a glass of wine for you when I get to Madrid tomorrow!

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Berlin again for May & June, with hopefully a visit to my bestie who recently moved to London, and maybe (if the budget allows) another trip to Italy :blush: :crossed_fingers:t2:

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Sounds glorious!

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