GALICIA, Spain...1 week, May 2024

Coming up, and it was WONDERFUL!

Having my usual trouble posting photos…but will press on!!!

Part of our negative reaction was due to a very loud pair of ladies seated on the balcony above us…but that’s not the fault of the restaurant. Anyway, here are a few pics; the best bite was the complimentary first course; I keep calling it “amuse,” but I know that Maribel has told me several times what the proper term is in Spanish, but yet again, I have forgotten.

This first dish was a slice of veal on good toasted bread (again, I have to praise the bread in Galicia!). The dish was excellent…both the meat and the bread.

I ordered cannelonis of squash in a ruddy pumpkin sauce; these were filled with shrimp and mixed vegetables. They obviously had cheese on top but I cannot recall the details. They were served lukewarm. We were ready to return to the lovely Parador so did not complain.

Croquetas de la Casa were nicely fried.

My partner was happy with his cod (no photo) ; step in the right direction for a person riveted on meat and veg dishes…the fish in Galicia can do that to a person.

Before I go on to our final restaurant in Galicia, O EIRADO DA LENA, I want to make note of an excellent shop stocked with a wide variety of Galician foods. I bought many tins of seafood conservas here; most were marcas I’d not seen before. This shop is in the commercial zone, about a half hour’s (slow) walk from the Parador. I was surprised that I saw no other shops selling conservas outside the principal market, which is but a few steps from the Parador.


O EIRADO DE LENA (should have accent mark over the “N” but I do not know how to type that).

This restaurant was a hit! I would say “essential” for anyone visiting Pontevedra…just wonderful!!!

The location is on what must be the most beautiful square in the city…film-set worthy. There are a couple of other restaurant on the same square that looked very tempting.

The dining room accommodates about 6 tables and there are two tasting menus and la carte selections. We chose the a la carte, as usual.

A pair of breads were offered; again, those Galician breads!
Here there was one made from corn and rye flour and a darker one studded with pumpkin seeds. (6 euro)

The complimentary first course was pickled mackerel crudo that even the former fish-shunner devoured with gusto.

I chose two appetizers; one excellent and the second, sublime:

Smoked Vieras (raw, smoked scallops, sans shells); look at the gorgeous stone that served as a plate!

White asparagus with cigalas…this ranks at the top of the list of “best dishes of the trip.” Cannot describe how great this dish was.


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So glad the Eirado de Leña made up for the disappointment of Las 5 Puertas.

The name for an amuse bouche is simply “aperitivo”.

Maribel, mil gracias, yet again!!!

O EIRADO, your suggestion, is worth a trip to Pontevedra. Besides the food, all of the service plates, and the incredible ceramics from Sargadelos, made for an exceptional experience. I had such a crush on the ceramic cow on our table that I could not barely keep my hands away from it to maneuver the utensils!! And here I had passed up on a visit to the factory many years ago one what was probably my first visit to Galicia, because I had the impression that they only made very traditional blue and white tableware. How wrong I was!!
I am kicking myself for not looking for a source for that little cow!!! Silly, right??


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To finish up with O EIRADO, my partner enjoyed very much the turbot (43 euro; no weight listed on menu)

Our bill, with water and one glass of (sweet, white, local) wine, Sitta Pereira, was a most reasonable 107 euro.

Among our top eating experiences in Galicia, and the final meal, before we decamped to a very different food arena, the island of Lanzarote in the Canarias.

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Yes Sargadelos makes different contemporary patterns now. They have a new store in Madrid in the Barrio de Salamanca on Lagascathat features these new pieces.
Cute cow! So glad Eirado de Leña saved the day for you in Pontevedra. The chef has a casual place on that same pretty square.

Iñaki Bretal’s other spot is Loaria.

That’s all I need now, a cute ceramic cow to join all the other objects from my travels! I am trying to declutter and here I am thinking about that cow! Bad news for the decluttering now that I learn that they have a shop in Madrid!! Look how cute, with the cafe con leche color and the polka dots!!

Galería Sargadelos, Calle Lagasca 25, near the corner of Jorge Juan.

It’s damn near impossible to get Cabrales in NY these days.

Sometimes online vendors such as La Tienda and iGourmet have it. And I discovered an unexpected source in Salt Lake City when I was ordering a gift box for friends who live there…Caputo’s.
https://caputos.com/

I just did another search and Mercado Little Spain has it in stock. José Andrés is from Asturias, after all. And also The Spanish Table. And Brooklyn Fare.

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Give Despana and Mercado a call. Zabar’s also has a lot of otherwise hard to find cheeses.

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Wow. Thanks. Subway it is then.

Zabars doesnt have it. The cheese dept aint what is once was and as for fairway…might as well be Kroger

That is a sad surprise. Give a call to Ideal Cheese on First and 52nd…I bet they will have it…its near me and because its not in a well-traveled area of the city, I think perhaps people don’t know about it as much as the others mentioned. It’s a great store, not only cheeses but all kinds of top Spanish items, along with Italian…

at some points in the past I bought it at Sahadi. Not sure about their selection of cheeses now especially with more than one store location.

Thanks!

I just re-read this thread and noticed more kasha’s search for Asturias cheese: Cabrales. Looks as if its available now in NYC:

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Gracias!