FRENCH - Cuisine of the Quarter, Winter 2020 (Jan-Mar)

I saw some fruits, are they confit or pickles?

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They are Asian glazed fruits … (Glacé)
The Moroccan and Japanese touches !

Sort of an quadruplet, of salty (but not salty as in too much salt), bitter, semi sweet,
sweet and sour.

Quite a fascinating flavour explosión ! And yet maintaining the Mediterranean Country tradition.

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Great idea, a nice touch to an otherwise classical dish!

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Thank you … Yes, I wanted to play in the kitchen ! Has been awhile and we purchased the beef short rib meat and thus, I added a bit of a semi sweet touch …

Mostarda is actually a French product (see jar of the glacé fruits ) … However, the fruits are Japanese.

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Lovely! I usually prepare shortribs as a braise rather than your almost pot au feu style. Mostarda would indeed be sublime with this, your presentation, Thanks for this.

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Boudin blanc, white pork sausage with truffle, apple. This dish is famous in the region Champagnes-Ardennes, near Belgium. Usually boudin is made of pork fatty parts such as breast or veal, sometimes it can fish, chicken with milk, eggs, cream, flour or crumb of bread and spices. I ate this numerous times but the first time cooked without casing, I preferred it this way as it bursted easily even pinched with a fork. Apple slices were cooked with butter till soft. I had used the Golden apples, they had a nice acidity.

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Love this. Great sear.

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Carbonades flamandes - flemish stew, beef stew with beer and mustard, a dish from the north, similar to beef bourguignon but replaced by a dark beer. I used a Belgium beer Chimay red cap with a fruity aroma. The recipe I used requested a spoonful of brown sugar, red wine vinegar and 2 spoonful of strong mustard. Cooking was pretty straight forward, beef chuck was browned with butter and olive oil in a big cast iron pot, set aside. Onion was cooked in the same pot until soft. Some recipes added smoky bacon as well. Put the beef back, added 2 cloves, bay leaves, and thyme with beer, mustard and sugar. Season with salt and black pepper. Cooked for 2 hours with lid closed. We had some stomach problems and wanted lighter meal, ate the dish a day after it was cooked, the flavours fused wonderfully together and was more equilibrium, “tamer” compared to the first night, which had a stronger bitterness from the beer and the acidity of mustard. Depending which way you like it.

Ate with pommes sautées, roasted potatoes with rosemary. Good and hearty winter meal.

Similar recipe:

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Thanks. After the festivals, the supermarket has sales on the boudins (and also salmons and also foie gras). It wasn’t my intention to start COTQ with the north region, I was thinking of starting with Île-de-France, the Parisien region first, where I live…well, I guess sometimes it is the ingredients who decide!

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IMHO, the way it should be. Keep it up! I want it all!

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I have never tasted this but i certainly want your plate! Thanks for pushing me into a new recipe.

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Me too, first time! Made Provençal daube and bœuf bourguignon (even the Bocuse’s version) several times, a nice change with beer.

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I prefer veal, but since it’s not readily available here, I have to settle for pork. In the style of Normandy. Made this the other night.

Sautéed bone-in thick cut pork chops until done. Remove. Add chopped shallots and apple slices to pan. Cook a bit and flame with Calvados. Add more heavy cream than you think you’ll need and reduce. Add chops back to pan to heat up and coat with sauce.

A simple French classic that never goes out of style. One of our favorites.

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@ Miss_belle Oh, yes, pork works well with your dish. And one, yes, of our favorites also.
A mild protein, shallot, apple, Calvados and cream…heaven.

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re your carbonade, please tell us about that gorgeous marrow bone. Not sure we have that way of cutting chuck in the US. The national differences in butchering are interesting and frustrating.

When I bought it, it was labelled as paleron, which is no. 18 in the diagram. Since the piece came with a marrow, I think it was jarret (see below), probably no. 23. It could be also no. 20 or 21, the parts for pot-au-feu.


image: papillesetpupilles.fr

The piece looked more like this, probably gite or jarret de bœuf - is it beef shin for you?

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I have bought cuts labeled “beef shin” that look like that before - excellent cut for stewing.

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@naf It does indeed look like shin, Thanks much for this excellent chart. I may print it out to use while discussing cuts with my butcher. I occasionally want them to break down a bigger cut in a way that is totally incomprehensible to them. US and French “cuts” are so very different.

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I’ve a look on US cuts, you are right, very different.

This link is useful for cuts of beef in many countries, including several European countries and South American etc. Interesting for anybody who is interested.

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Little party for francophile friends.
Boudin noir with pairs


Accompanied by pear cider

Roasted snapper with caper sauce, recipe from Les Papilles, Paris
braised fennel, riz noir from Camargue. Chinon Blanc

Washed rind cheese, prune walnut “cake”

A lot of wine, so photo shoot got waylaid
Chocolate sherbet with creme chantilly and crushed dried oranges.
Late harvest zin

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