This was, of course, its original intent, to offer the traveler trusted food and lodging in the countryside. As you suggest, perhaps it is we foreign visitors who have perverted it to a reference for status dining.
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This is of course so true. And actually very helpful. A few weeks ago when we were in the Dordogne, I found this place through the Michelin guide.
Unpretentious restaurant in a 3 star hotel, so a far cry from the usual Michelin fanfare, but seems a lovely place, right up my ally. Unfortunately they were fully booked! There is no mention of it on google, so only Michelin guide readers or locals would know about this restaurant.
Adding a small counter-opinion here, we have had some of the most enjoyable and memorable meals in country France having chosen what looked like the best prospect in a small town or village. Occasionally an undiscovered talent in the kitchen, always dining among locals, usually regional plates, seldom white tablecloths. A tiny, rough hotel dining room deep in Puisaye; a truckstop on the Cote d’Or; the main coffee shop/restaurant high in the Ardeche. Far below Michelin radar. The places we are most likely to bring up when reminiscing.
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It’s very old-fashioned these days, and I haven’t myself used it in several years, but Logis de France always gave quite decent hotels and restaurants (same locations). I certainly would use it as a source if I were in a part of France unknown to me and had no other recommendations.
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Get Lobrano’s book on eating in paris. Heartfelt reviews of restos across the $s spectrum. Try also the Paros by Mouth blog.
Thank you again for all the input! I think I’ve now got a reasonable grasp on that side of our dining options. Now for something of a challenging question - if we were to have a bit of a ‘blowout’ meal could I dare to ask for suggestions? Many years ago I was fortunate enough to eat at a few 3 starred restaurants (Taillevant, Robuchon and Bocuse) not sure if we need to go to that extreme but happy to consider almost anything - don’t manage to get to Paris very often from Oz…
Yeah, but most of the restaurants discussed here badly need tourists. It’s a big part of their revs, even if they are French tourists. I think service is more and more reconciled to this, and tourists are more and more indulged. I can add that I find Paris front of the house staff very good in general, and often putting in the effort to make less sophisticated diners feel comfortable and have a great time. Overall, I am happy to see so many great places full of tourists and making money.
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Have a look at 2-star Le Clarence near the Grand Palais in the 8th. I find it exceptional… and for the setting and quality of cuisine, great value. https://www.le-clarence.paris/
Many thanks (again) Daniel - it looks fabulous! Will see if I can reserve a table for my trip at the end of July…
Hey Daniel
Just realised the night for our special dinner is a Monday - Le Clarence is closed. 
Mondays are tough I accept, would you possibly have another suggestions?
Thanks again, Tony
@Ozfood. For a special occasion dinner, 2-starred Le Gabriel in La Réserve hotel is open on Monday. Has all the right elements… setting, ambiance, excellent tasting menu. https://www.lareserve-paris.com/restaurants-bars/restaurant-le-gabriel/
You’re very generous with your time and advice - thank you, Daniel!
This looks wonderful. The other recommendation given previously which is also open on a Monday is L’Oiseau Blanc - would you advise one over the other?
Many thanks, Tony
Difficult because I’m not a tourist and don’t need a view of the Tour Eiffel in background. Having said that, I prefer Le Gabriel for the style and “Frenchness”.
L’Oiseau Blanc has a more international and modern tone as well as a view of the Tour Eiffel. Another selling point is that it has a rooftop bar (only open in good weather from May to Sept/ Oct) with great views for a before or after
Makes sense - thank you, Daniel
Hey Daniel
I should have mentioned earlier - I’ll be in Paris from Friday 29th July to Tuesday 2nd August. It seems that many of the suggested restaurants (Cena, Le Truffaut, Coda) aren’t doing online reservations this far out - would that be correct? Also Monday 1st August seems to be a problem with Granite, Montee and Le Gabriel looking like 5th are closed for a summer break. Would you suggest I just wait a month to make those reservations and would you kindly have any further suggestions for our Monday night ‘special’ dinner?
Thank you again, Tony
@Ozfood. Oops, your stay in Paris coincides with one of most popular times for restaurants (and other small businesses) closing for the fermeture annuelle/ annual hols. (We have a legal mandatory minimum of 5 weeks paid vacation time a year… and many have even more). There is no easy answer. No one will know until the start of July what will be closed and what will be open. You just have to have a very long short list and a lot of patience.
Thank you for the explanation - I knew a lot of the ‘big name’ restaurants often closed in August, just didn’t realise it was quite so extensive!
Thanks to you and a number of other contributors I’ve got quite the list so I’ll take your advice (again) and cool my heels till beginning of July…
The August doldrums doesn’t really effect the typical tourist. All tourist attractions and the many cutesy trad restaurants that depend on the tourist trade remain open. But for a foodie traveller, the last weekend in July and the first fortnight of August can be very difficult.
The people who leave Paris must be going to seaside or vacation spots were they need to eat. Do restaurants in all of France shut down in August? I haven’t been to Europe in summer for 20 plus years.
The seaside restaurants, mainly open in summer (only 3 or 6 months a year.) Indeed, some of the big cities restaurants staff or chefs will go to those places to cook.
Of course the brasserie types of places in Paris will still open in summer.
