I’m still reviewing possible restaurants for my trip in May. For something different, has anyone tried Shang Palace? It has one Michelin star I believe. If not that, are there any recs for Chinese food? I have no clue how the scene is in Paris.
Virtus has changed operations; Chiho and Marcello are now in Argentina and there is a new chef at Virtus.
A propos of changes, I wanted to book today at Adria in the 12th and Google informs me that it is permanently closed.
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Onz, I know. Chiho especially is much missed. I like the food a little less without them but it’s good enough to retain Virtus’ 1 star and the ambiance is still very enjoyable, almost flirty. Something you can’t say about the 1 stars that tourists, especially Americans, seem to love i.e. overhyped Septime.
Re Adria, go to Passerini instead.
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Passerini is the real deal.
Mme Mangeur aka Pilgrim, didn’t we first bond over our mutual admiration of Passerini when he was the chef at the much missed Rino ? And circles circles. I first encountered him at Gazzetta on rue de Cotte which is now the premises of Virtus, a huge favourite of both onz and myself (see above).
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I just wrote to friends vis a vis a related topic, “I think I’ve told you of my Paris week with son and d-i-l. At a point, son begged for some pasta or something not French. I told him, “Go it! There’s a hot new Italian place just opened. Rino!” And so we went. Of course, not at all “Italian” but we sat across from the kitchen, played with Giovanni and then sous Simone Tondo. Fabulous food, extraordinary interplay. The beginning of a long love affair.”
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Hi there
Have just found HO after years of lurking on Chowhound and still struggling a little with the site so apologies if I ask something that has been answered many times before.
I have an upcoming trip to Paris (July/August) after many years. I well recall the articles about many ‘young gun’ chefs eschewing Michelin and opening bistros where it’s all about the food rather than the grand setting. Could I please ask for any such recommendations from those reading.
With many thanks
Ozfoodie 
Not so sure about the eschewing Michelin stars thing but there are certainly restos with great food in humble --or at least not grand-- settings. Of the new crop, Coda in the 9th and Truffaut in Les Batignolles/ 17th, Lolo (but trendy as well as good food) in the 9th immediately come to mind. Of the more established restos, Le Galopin in the 10th, Pierre Sang Oberkampf in the 11th to name just a few.
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I am particularly interested/pleased to read your inclusion (and others’ praise elsewhere) for tiny Le Galopin. We have not been since the Tischenkos decamped, and in fact have not been awfully pleased since Romaine left the kitchen for Cave au Michel. Any input on the gist of the food they are serving now beside the generic?
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Since the Jaïs folks took over Le Galopin, the food remains similar to the bistronomie of the original chief (who was, I agree, a delight) but has some japonais touches (and maybe too much subtlety at times) because the new chef previously had a stint in Tokyo. I miss the personality of the Tischenkos and some of the surprises that marked their cuisine but the resto, its food, clientele are basically unchanged. But sorry, I am incapable of analyzing (or remembering exactly) the food I ate there so generalizations and conclusions are the most I can offer.
I should add that my appreciation of most restaurants is very much coloured by location and the very atmospheric place Sainte-Marthe and immediate area add to the enjoyment of a meal at Le Galopin.
I’ve never been for the à la carte lunch, only the tasting menu dinner
A caveat. The ventilation has not improved and it should be avoided in heatwaves.
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Many thanks, Parn. And a good warning re ventilation. A veritable sauna in 40C.
Many thanks, Daniel for taking the time to respond - much appreciated! These suggestions look just what I was after. We’ll be staying in Rue de Courcelles / would you happen to have any recommendations nearby?
Thanks again, Tony (from Downunder)
Rue de Courcelles is quite a long street and very little of it runs through good restaurant territory. Where exactly/ closest intersection would be helpful.
Thank you again, Daniel
Pretty close to the intersection of Rue and Boulevard de Courcelles…
A challenge. It’s a very bon-bourgeois, worthy, high-rent neighbourhood that tends to favour trad restos serving safe old-fashioned “cuisine bourgeoise” to a clientele that is mostly middle-aged and older, and does not attract hot young chefs in search of trendy, hip, and/or foodie customers. I love the Parc Monceau and the ornate “grilles”/ wrought iron gates of some of its access streets as well as the two very good market streets (rues Poncelet and Lévis) in easy walking distance, but I usually go elsewhere for a meal.
Only Cèna on rue Treilhard (a 700 to 800 metre walk from rue Courcelles @ boulevard Courcelles) seems to qualify as the sort of restaurant you are looking for even if more elegant, polished and expensive than the usual “hot young chef” resto.
For the type of restaurant I cited in my previous post, you will probably have to commute by bus or taxi (or walk 20 to 25 minutes) to the much more lively and nearby Les Batignolles quartier: Le Truffaut on, surprise, rue Truffaut and Mova on rue des Dames. If you eliminate the hot young chef criteria for your chefs, the more established Coretta on rue Cardinet and Rooster on the same street are both excellent options for starless restaurants often serving star-worthy cuisine. Although I haven’t been since pre-Covid, Gare au Gorille and Bordeluche, both on rue des Dames, are also candidates.
BTW, Les Batignolles is a great nieghbourhood for a coffee, apéro, or cocktail before and after dinner/ lunch.
An ever present issue with the Michelin star system, not just in France but the UK as well (and, no doubt, other countries. It makes me doubt the continued relevence of Michelin to modern dining.
Wow! Thank you so much, Daniel - so very kind of you.
I must say that I get more hits than misses with Michelin restaurants, especially the bib gourmands. As for those that are left out, tant mieux, fewer (or these days almost no) tourists there.
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Quite so.
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As an old French expat (40 years abroad) I feel there is a basic misunderstanding about the “France” Michelin guide. It is still the bible for French travelers outside Paris, and I use it non-stop when landed in an unknown town / region. It guarantees me (in most cases) a good meal, a comfortable restaurant, or a decent hotel. A lot of people nowadays concentrate on the star rating, but for the basic traveler, this is really accessory and not the main reason to use the guide. This being said, if I am in a place where there is a Michelin starred restaurant, I will probably go for it… and miss an equally good restaurant nearby!
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