Explore the Wonderful World of Japanese Sake, from Light, Fruity, Sweet, Dry, Clean, to Effervescent and Beyond - Sake School is in Session at Ototo Sake Bar & Tsubaki [Thoughts + Pics]

[Chowseeker1999]

Japanese Sake can connote many things. For some, “Sake” might cause unpleasant memories of Sake Bombs tasting like gasoline to resurface. For others, it might be that equally awful taste of mass-produced Box Sake like Sho Chiku Bai (a.k.a., the “Bud Light” of Sake) that was your first and only experience that turned you off from Sake forever. Still for others, Sake might be intimidating, a list of long descriptors like “Honjozo” “Junmai” “Daiginjo” “Shizuku” “Muroka” etc., and with Japanese names, it might make ordering a bottle too much of a risk.

That’s what makes Ototo Sake Bar (and sister restaurant next door, Tsubaki) so wonderful, all thanks in part to Owner-Sommelier Courtney Kaplan. Sommelier Kaplan might be recognizable to some for her excellent work previously at Bestia (with great Wine recommendations), but with her independent endeavor (along with Chef Charles Namba), you now have access to a stunning, exciting and always inviting Sake Menu, and Sommelier Kaplan always makes it accessible.

(Note: This covers the first few visits, pre-pandemic, along with visits afterwards for To-Go offerings.)

The pair originally started with Tsubaki Restaurant, which is more of an Izakaya (or Japanese Pub), and while the food is passable, the Sake is the highlight, all with outstanding guidance from Courtney. With Ototo Sake Bar (only opened recently), they were able to focus on making a real Japanese Sake Bar, serious in exploring Sake, but always inviting, with some more casual Japanese dishes / snacks on that side.

One look at the cover of the Ototo Sake Menu and you can see how accessible Sommelier Kaplan is making the world of Japanese Sake:

Open up the menu, and you’ll see simple, beautiful introductions to each major type of Sake, inviting you to try something from the menu. And it’s hard not to try something after reading so many intriguing descriptions and tasting notes from Sommelier Kaplan.

Or if you don’t feel like reading, just ask her for advice and recommendations and sit back and enjoy the impromptu Sake education you are getting.

Akitabare - Suirakuten - Daiginjo Sake (Akita, Japan):

Sommelier Kaplan introduces us to Akitabare Suirakuten, a 2 Year Aged, Shizuku (gravity-pressed) Sake. This was aromatic, easy to drink and a nice start to our first visit.

Glancing over Ototo’s menu, and it’s a greatest hits of easy-to-handle small dishes, accessible things like Kara-Age (Japanese Fried Chicken), Nasu Dengaku (Grilled Japanese Eggplant with Saikyo Miso and Shiso and other items). We start with:

Kaki Fry (Panko Fried Oysters, Smoked Daikon Remoulade, Fennel Pollen):

These were OK. There was a nice light crunch with the Panko breading, the Oysters within were still quite tender and lightly briny.

Huchu Homare - Watari Bune 55 - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Ibaraki, Japan):

Another great recommendation, the Watari Bune 55 is standout in using an Heirloom Rice that actually went extinct before being revived in recent years(!). The Watari Bune is also one of the parent strains of Yamada Nishiki, one of the most celebrated Sake Rice. Lightly fruity, bright with a bit of some earthiness as well.

Chicken Katsu Sando (Fried Chicken Sandwich, Snowy Cabbage, Tonkatsu Sauce):

It is hard not to make comparisons to the more celebrated Katsu Sando (Tonkatsu Cutlet Sandwich) down the street at Konbi. Ototo’s turns out to be decent. It was clearly freshly made, but the Bread lacks the light crisp-crunch of a just toasted Bread, and the Chicken Katsu breading is sort of lightly crunchy, but also feels softened up by the Cabbage / steaming. Taste-wise, this was fine, and we’d order it again to give it another try.

Heiwa Shuzou - KID - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Wakayama, Japan):

The easy to remember “KID” from Heiwa Shuzou is a wonderful standout! While you might expect some elegance with a Junmai Daiginjo, KID really stood out for us with its refreshing quality, some light fruit notes, and a really clean finish! Loved this.

We liked it so much, we enjoyed a 2nd bottle at Shibumi a few months later.

Katafune - Shiboritate - Tokubetsu Honjozo Nama Sake (Niigata, Japan):

While we’ve had Katafune Sake before, Courtney brought in their Shiboritate Nama version (Fresh-Pressed, Unpasteurized). Yet another interesting offering on this first visit.

2nd Visit:

While you’re able to get some great insight and advice from Sommelier Kaplan on any visit, one of the ways she’s been working hard to advance the appreciation of Sake to the area is with her new “Sunday Sake School” program:

Just look at the design! How could you not want to sign up for class?! On Sundays, Sommelier Kaplan will choose a topic / theme and introduce participants to a flight of Japanese Sake based on that theme. One of the first Sunday Sake Schools we tried was a study of Muroka Nama Genshu (Not Charcoal Filtered, Unpasteurized, Not Diluted) Sake from Floating World Distributor.

Ever since our good friend recommended Shichida Spring release of their Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (one of the most interesting, fun Seasonal Sake to look forward to every year), we’ve been on a mission to try more of this style when possible, so this Sunday Sake School was perfect.

Kaze no Mori - Wind of the Woods - Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Nara, Japan):

I’m such a fan of Kaze no Mori’s brewery, Yucho Shuzo, which has been making Sake for over 300 years(!). Their Takacho Bodaimoto remains one of the best finds around. Thankfully their Kaze no Mori “Wind of the Woods” Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu is also wonderful! There’s a light effervescence, tingly, refreshing and just so good to drink. This was probably our favorite on this visit.

Mutemuka - Mutemuka - Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Kochi, Japan):

This one was also fun, a different taste of Muroka Nama Genshu compared to the previous Kaze no Mori. This was a bit more earthy, still fun and totally different compared to most Junmai Ginjo / Daiginjos we’ve had.

Haku Gyokko - Fragrant Jewel - Yamahai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Chiba, Japan):

Made with 100% Yamada Nishiki Rice, this was another Muroka Nama Genshu that was quite fun to drink. It’s been awhile since this first Sake School, but I remembered enjoying this more than the Mutemuka, but not as much as the Kaze no Mori (1st one).

Akishika - Okarakuchi - Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Osaka, Japan):

True to its name, the Akishika Okarakuchi was definitely a very dry finish. The fun part of this Sake was the Muroka Nama Genshu (Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Non-Diluted) aspect, allowing for bigger flavors to come through than what one might expect from Sake.

Overall, it was a fun Sunday Sake School, informative, interesting and we couldn’t wait to attend more “classes” in the future.

Gozenshu - Bodaimoto - Junmai Nigori Sake (Okayama, Japan):

This was only the 2nd Sake that we’ve ever tried using the ancient Bodaimoto method to brew Sake. But it tasted absolutely nothing like the Takacho Bodaimoto. But it had lots of complex layers of flavors, almost peppery.

3rd Visit:

On this 3rd visit to Ototo, we were treated to another wonderful evening of Sake exploration, starting with:

Kaze no Mori - Wind of the Woods - Alpha Type 3 - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Nara, Japan):

Another offering from Yucho Shuzo, we really enjoyed the Kaze no Mori “Wind of the Woods” Muroka Nama Genshu, so we were excited to see what their polished Junmai Daiginjo expression would be like. This one also had some light effervescence, fizzy, fun, light melon-like fruitiness, great finish.

Goma-Ae (Haricots Verts, Creamy Sesame Dressing, Chili Garlic):

This was a good, simple starter. A bit bolder with Chef Namba’s addition of a crunchy Chili Garlic, which overpowered the Sesame flavors, which is what you might expect, but still a good Vegetable starter to the meal.

Takachiyo - 59 - Chapter Five - Morinokumasan - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):

If you ever get a chance to try the Takachiyo 59 series, you’ll be rewarded with a really interesting exploration of Sake. Takachiyo 59 series is essentially a release of a series of Sake “Chapters”, where each Chapter’s bottle is brewed exactly the same way, except the Rice used in each Chapter is different(!). So it’s a neat way to look at how important Rice is in making Sake.

We really enjoyed Chapter 2 and 3. I think Aiyama Rice is my favorite in the Chapters so far. Chapter 5 uses the Morinokumasan Rice Grain. This one tasted more heavy, complex, minerally.

Oden (Daikon, Pork Baby Back Ribs, Soft Egg Stewed in Dashi Broth):

Oden is one of those soul-warming comfort foods found in Japan, and perfect for chillier nights. We didn’t have high hopes for Ototo’s attempt at Oden (given Tsubaki’s menu), however, it seems that with Ototo going to simpler OG Japanese comfort foods, it uncomplicates things and the food is more enjoyable here.

The Oden Dashi Broth doesn’t come close to the sublime Broth from Chef Masakazu Sasaki from Torihei OG, but it was warming and was tasty enough.

The Stewed Pork Ribs were fine. Soft, tender, fall-off-the bone.

The Hanjyukku Tamago (Half-Boiled Egg) was also nicely done, but could’ve used a bit more flavor seeping into each bite, and the Daikon was fine (also a far cry from the greatness from Sasaki-san), but on this chilly night? It was good and comforting along with some delicious Sake.

Chicken Katsu Sando (Fried Chicken Sandwich, Snowy Cabbage, Tonkatsu Sauce):

Trying their Chicken Katsu (Cutlet) Sandwich again, the kitchen staff improved the execution. This one was slightly more crisped, but still a bit on the soft side, with more pronounced flavors. A good, simple dish to get some sustenance while you enjoy the Sake exploration.

Takacho - Regal Hawk - Bodaimoto Junmai Muroka Genshu Sake (Nara, Japan):

We had been raving to Sommelier Kaplan about Takacho (Regal Hawk) after enjoying 2 bottles at Shibumi the previous year, and she had shared that she also really enjoyed this Sake and got it in stock on this visit. Must order.

The unique thing about Takacho is that it uses the Bodaimoto method of brewing Sake, which was an ancient method dating back over 500 years ago in Japan(!). This method is very rare nowadays, and one taste of the Takacho and you can appreciate just how wild and different it is:

There’s an initial natural sweetness, layers of various fruit notes, but it’s also very complex. It truly is one interesting layer after another, after another. An absolute party!

If you’re wanting to try a very unique, fun Sake, look no further than Takacho “Regal Hawk”. Stunning and one of my favorite Sake of recent years!

Ode to Mos Burger (Japanese Chili, Shredded Iceberg, Yuzu Thousand Island Dressing, Tomato):

I have not tried the original Mos Burger in Japan, so I can’t speak to its authenticity or closeness in taste, but this was Chef Namba’s tribute to Japan’s Mos Burger chain, but with elevated ingredients. Taking a bite:

This is probably one of the best items on the Ototo (and Tsubaki) menu. Is it really just a glorified Chili Burger? Yes. But it was delicious, a good Japanese Chili (which did taste similar to a good American Chili), quality Beef patty cooked medium, messy and tasty.

And how potent is the Takacho “Regal Hawk” Bodaimoto Sake? It stood up to this Chili Burger monstrosity and paired nicely.

4th Visit:

This was a recent visit during COVID-19, and Ototo is closed for indoor dining (like the rest of the country). There are Sake bottles on display near the front entrance in the hopes that folks might purchase some good bottles to enjoy at home, and also help support the hurting Sake industry.

Kaze no Mori - Wind of the Woods - Black Label - Junmai Nama Genshu Sake (Nara, Japan):

In a show of support and to explore the last of the Kaze no Mori (Wind of the Woods) lineup, Sommelier Kaplan had gotten in their Black Label, which is a Junmai Nama Genshu Sake. I have not opened it up, hoping to enjoy it this Christmas, but will report back when I do. Can’t wait.

We also picked up a few more bottles of Sake (including the Takacho “Regal Hawk”) to enjoy or give away as gifts.

6th Visit - Tsubaki Restaurant:

With both restaurants being next door to each other and the same owners, when outdoor dining was allowed again (briefly), the limited few tables outside both restaurants were turned into “outdoor dining for Tsubaki”, and we wanted to stop by and show support (and enjoy more Sake).

The tables were very far apart, and there were only 4 tables total, so it generally felt safe in those conditions.

We let Sommelier Kaplan guide us through the evening, and we begin with:

Chikurin - Karoyaka - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Okayama, Japan):

Fascinating! Sommelier Kaplan talks about how this is a Sake Brewer that grows their own Rice (Yamada Nishiki) and brews their Sake as well. Taste-wise, light sweetness, light fruit, but there’s a complexity here that you don’t find with many Daiginjos (this is a Ginjo). Wonderful!

Crab Fried Rice:

Tsubaki’s Crab Fried Rice normally comes with Butter added in, an unnecessary complication to the purity of good wok-fired Fried Rice. We asked them to omit the Butter, and the result was a passable, tasty Crab Rice that’s not really wok-fried in taste, but delicious otherwise.

Shichida - Hiyaoroshi - Junmai Sake (Saga, Japan):

Shichida’s Autumn Release Sake is their beautiful red labelled Hiyaoroshi, which is a style of Sake released in the Fall season. This year’s release is made with Aiyama Rice, and after tasting this, I can say, I love Aiyama Rice! Absolutely gorgeous, rich, complex, deeper, earthier fruit notes. A stunner! We liked it more than last year’s Shichida Hiyaoroshi, and the rice varietal might be why? Worth tracking down if you can find it!

Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute - Honjozo Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):

I was not familiar with Noguchi Naohiko, but Sommelier Kaplan mentions that he’s like a Sake Brewmaster God. He’s helped other famous brewers for years and decided to go out and make his own, hence the name.

This first bottle “only” a Honjozo Sake (where a small amount of distilled alcohol is added in while making Sake), it’s not as “glamorous” as its more celebrated cousins like Junmai Ginjo or Junmai Daiginjo, but with this first expression I can only say:

Stunning.

There is nothing like it that I’ve tasted! It is a beautiful Sake, it’s bold, deep fruit layers, maybe even Cinnamon and yet it finishes beautifully and clean. I could not stop thinking about it! A must try for Sake lovers.

Tonkatsu Set (Deep Fried Pork Cutlet over Rice):

A solid Tonkatsu. It doesn’t come close to Tonkatsu Specialist Kaguya, but so far on the Tsubaki menu this was an improvement from previous visits.

Crab Cream Croquette:

Their take on Korokke (Croquettes), this was fine. Too much Cream, not enough Kani (Crab) taste.

Sempuku Shinriki - Junmai 85 Sake (Hiroshima, Japan):

This was a really interesting recommendation from Sommelier Kaplan, a Junmai Sake whose Rice is milled to only 85%. It feels like the opposite of those crazy Daiginjos that are in a race to mill their Rice to as low a percentage as possible.

But the taste was fun. Also really bold, wild, fruity at times, with a longer tail.

Overall, Ototo Sake Bar (and Tsubaki) has developed into a place to really enjoy and explore the world of Japanese Sake. While on every one of our visits to both places over the years, the vast majority of tables did not order Sake (sad), it would be wise for visitors who want to learn even a little bit about how wonderful Sake can be, to ask Sommelier Courtney Kaplan for some recommendations and begin there.

Courtney is always so knowledgeable and informative, never making you feel like you need to know some basics to be able to enjoy. Let her guide you through the regions of Japan, through the various types of Sake and be prepared to have fun, enjoy and be amazed at how glorious Sake can be.

With the restaurant industry hurting, buying some Sake from Ototo (or your local neighborhood shops) not only helps the local business owners, but also helps out the Sake industry, which from various reports sounds like it’s hurting even worse than some (as Sake sales are down dramatically.

Sommelier Kaplan is arguably the best Sake Sommelier we have in the City of Angels, and it’s always fun to find out about some new Sake you’ve never tried before and appreciate what the brewers were trying to achieve. So enjoy some Sake, sip and relax this holiday season.

Ototo Sake Bar (& Tsubaki)
1360 Allison Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Tel: (213) 784-7930

OTOTO | ECHO PARK SAKE BAR

Tsubaki | A Japanese restaurant in Echo Park, Los Angeles

Update 1:

Virtual Sake School at Ototo!

For this particular visit, Owner-Sommelier Courtney Kaplan was going to host a Virtual Sake School on Japanese Sake Brewery Heiwa Shuzo (Wakayama, Japan). According to Sommelier Kaplan, Heiwa Shuzo was founded in 1928, but only really made Sake in earnest starting in the 1950’s after WWII. They took on the name “Heiwa”, which means “Peace” to mark the end of World War II.

And apparently it wasn’t until the 1990’s that the young son that was heir to Heiwa Shuzo returned to the brewery to help revitalize the family’s Sake business (which prior to that was making inexpensive carton Sake).

For this tasting, the special treat was being able to meet Heiwa Shuzo’s Toji (Master Brewer)! Courtney was able to arrange for the Toji to not only talk about the Sake, but also give us a tour of Heiwa Shuzo online! Very cool. We got to try 4 bottles in their lineup.

KID - Junmai Sake:

Refreshing, lightly sweet, a bit more rustic (in a good way) compared to the rest of the lineup. Delicious.

KID - Junmai Daiginjo Sake

As expected their Junmai Daiginjo was fruitier, floral, some sweetness, and finished so cleanly.

KID - Junmai Ginjo Shiboritate Sake

A Winter release, Shiboritate is basically unaged Sake, fresh from the presses. This was hard to describe as in a bit of unfortunate circumstance, the plastic container for this pour had a weird chemical smell to it! I chalk it up to a fluke as the rest of the containers were fine, darn.

KID - Junmai Ginjo Hiyaoroshi Sake

An Autumn Sake, left to mature through the Summer and then released in the Autumn, this results in a taste that’s rounder, more complex, still fruity, with sweetness, and tasty!

Fried Chicken Sandwich (Kara-age Style Fried Jidori Chicken, Yuzu Kosho Slaw, Daikon Pickles, Brioche Sesame Bun):

Given the mediocrity of Tsubaki’s menu, we had low expectations here, but their new To-Go Menu (during COVID-19) is simplified food, and it seems to have helped with execution. This was a solid Fried Chicken Sandwich. Definitely edible, the Fried Jidori Chicken isn’t as super crispy-crunchy as a usual American Fried Chicken Sandwich, but had a light crunch to it. The weak link was the overall taste: It was fine, but tasted like a standard-ish Kara-age style seasoning, just with a Sesame Seed Bun.

Japanese Curry Rice:

The server confirmed that they make their own Curry in-house, but the base did taste like S&B or House as the basis, but with additional enhancements on top. Still, the Beef morsels and overall Curry Sauce was aromatic, zesty, with a Curry Powder driven front note, some beefiness from the cooked down Beef within. I’d order this again if I was in the area for lunch and hankering for Japanese Curry.

Another Visit:

Finally just this past week, Tsubaki / Ototo announced that they just got in Shichida’s famous Spring Sake! Time for a visit!

Shichida - (Spring Release) Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake (Saga, Japan):

Now an annual celebration, when you see Shichida’s Spring Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake in your local restaurants, it marks the arrival of Spring! Taking a sip…

Wild, sweet, yeasty, naturally effervescent! It’s like a party in your mouth, so many flavors and layers and it’s so expressive! We completely missed last year’s Shichida Spring release because the pandemic had just hit and everyone was in lockdown. So it’s been 2 years(!) since we last enjoyed this amazing Sake.

Definitely one of the best Sake we’ve had this year, and as enjoyable as the last Shichida Spring Muroka Nama Genshu we tried 2 years ago.

Soriresu (Two Skewers Charcoal Grilled Chicken Oysters, Yuzu Kosho):

Wanting to see how the kitchen progressed now that they were back open for outdoor dining, we decided to try a few dishes along with the excellent Sake. The Soriresu were 2 Yakitori Skewers of Grilled Chicken Oysters. These were too salty, oversalted in seasoning and then the Yuzu Kosho inherently is salty as well. The lack of understanding here sunk the dish. The actual flavor also lacked the depth of great Binchotan (Japanese Charcoal) Yakitori.

Yoshidagura - “U-nique!” - Yamahai Junmai Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):

Thankfully things bounced back quickly with yet another stunning Sake recommendation from Sommelier Kaplan: Yoshidagura “U-nique!” Yamahai Junmai Sake. It appears Yoshidagura is from the son of excellent Japanese Sake Brewery Tedorigawa(!), which is the makers of one of my favorite QPR selections, Tedorigawa Kinka “Gold Blossom” Nama Daiginjo Sake, which is super delicious, easy to drink and sells for only ~$43 per bottle!

So the son of the brewery released a new Yamahai under his own label (but still brewed at Tedorigawa according to Courtney) called “Yoshidagura”. This Yamahai-style Sake is totally different from Tedorigawa’s Yamahai that we’ve had multiple times. This one is definitely “unique” as it’s bright, summery, refreshing, lightly sweet. Excellent!

Ikura Ochazuke (Steamed Koshihikari Rice, House-Cured Salmon Roe, Mitsuba, Wasabi, Genmai Matcha Wasabi Broth):

Thankfully their Ochazuke turned out to be good and one of the safe items to order on the menu (it’s hard to mess up Steamed Rice, Ikura (Salmon Roe) and Hot Tea poured on top). This was tasty though, as the Ikura (Salmon Roe) and Steamed Rice, with some of the Genmai Matcha Broth was perfect to keep us warm in the chilly outdoors. I’d order this again.

(Off-Menu) Takeno Tsuyu - Hakurosuishu - “Moon Mountain’s Dew” - Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake (Yamagata, Japan):

And in a stunning surprise, Courtney brought out something not on the menu, but also fitting this Spring season: Takeno Tsuyu (quickly becoming a favorite thanks to @ColinMorey)'s Hakurosuishu - “Moon Mountain’s Dew” release of a Muroka Nama Genshu(!) Junmai Ginjo Sake. I’d never heard of this one before (having tried their Junmai Daiginjo last year).

This was wild with big flavors, and not overly sweet (like their Junmai Daiginjo), but it finished super crisp and clean! Outstanding! We really enjoyed their simple Takeno Tsuyu Junmai at Torihei, but this Muroka Nama Genshu is a lot of fun.

Tsubaki and Ototo continue to provide an important gateway for folks interested in tasting and learning more about Japanese Sake, thanks to Owner-Sommelier Courtney Kaplan. She continues to shine here, bringing over some really interesting, not as commonly found Sake, where too many of our local Japanese restaurants just carry the big brand names these days.

With Spring arriving, there’s never been a better time to try some delicious Sake, with all of the Spring limited releases. If you can only try one, be sure to try Shichida’s Spring Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake. It will show a side of “Sake” that you’ve experienced before if you’re mainly drinking Junmai Ginjo / Daiginjo’s from the big brands.

After that, just sit back and ask Courtney for additional recommendations and enjoy the wonderful world of Japanese Sake with interesting insight from the outstanding Sommelier.

Ototo Sake Bar & Tsubaki
1360 Allison Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Tel: (213) 784-7930

Note: Outdoor Dining is currently being done through Tsubaki.

OTOTO | ECHO PARK SAKE BAR

Tsubaki | A Japanese restaurant in Echo Park, Los Angeles

Update 1: Fantastic Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute bottles 2022, also improved food at Ototo (Japanese Potato Salad and that Buta Shumai!) and more.

Explore the Wonderful World of Japanese Sake, from Light, Fruity, Sweet, Dry, Clean, to Effervescent and Beyond - Sake School is in Session at Ototo Sake Bar & Tsubaki [Thoughts + Pics]

Update 1: It had been awhile since our last visit to Ototo (the casual Sake Bar / eatery) and Tsubaki (the more formal, fusion-Izakaya pub and sister restaurant next door). But we wanted to show support for the Japanese Sake industry and just enjoy some chilled, refreshing beverages to beat the heat. [ototo2_002] Once again, Co-Owner and Sake Sommelier Courtney Kaplan continues to shine (at both restaurants), curating one of the most interesting lists of Japanese Sake in the region. S…

[ipsedixit]

@Chowseeker1999

Ode to Mos Burger (Japanese Chili, Shredded Iceberg, Yuzu Thousand Island Dressing, Tomato):

I have not tried the original Mos Burger in Japan, so I can’t speak to its authenticity or closeness in taste, but this was Chef Namba’s tribute to Japan’s Mos Burger chain, but with elevated ingredients. Taking a bite:

This is probably one of the best items on the Ototo (and Tsubaki) menu. Is it really just a glorified Chili Burger? Yes. But it was delicious, a good Japanese Chili (which did taste similar to a good American Chili), quality Beef patty cooked medium, messy and tasty.

Hmm, I’ve been to MOS in Japan and I don’t ever recall a chili burger on the menu.

That burger, however, definitely looks like a “fork-and-knife” endeavor.

Nice report!

[Chowseeker1999]

Hi @ipsedixit,

Thanks. I defer to you and any other folks who’ve tried Mos Burger. Definitely some nice Sake to sample at both restaurants.

[A5KOBE (Mr Kobe)]

Nice report and breakdown on the sake. I first had Kid at Wadatsumi in Torrance and really enjoy it as well.

[Chowseeker1999]

Hi @A5KOBE,

Thank you. I didn’t realize Wadatsumi carried KID as well! Good to know for next time (when it’s safe again).

[A5KOBE (Mr Kobe)]

I’m not sure it is regular rotation at Wadatsumi, they had a special sake one night and had a giant double bottle open on ice and selling by the glass. The waitress recommended we try it and we ended up drinking that all meal because it was so good and it went so well with their food. I went back a bit later and they didn’t have it anymore.

I bought a couple bottles at HiTimes in Costa Mesa, but I believe they do not carry it regularly either.

[ColinMorey]

Thanks for this wonderful in depth report @Chowseeker1999!

Can you share the details of Sake Sunday School and is it a monthly subscription that includes tastings? Or are each individual sessions and some non interactive tasting kits put together?

I highly recommend trying any Kaze No Mori sake, they represent a newer more modern style with a lot of flavor, while using very traditional methods. The Alpha 3 is super interesting and very easy to drink, but is also great with shellfish, crabs, etc.

I had the Haku Gyokko recently, and that is by Kidoizumi Shuzo in Chiba prefecture, that does some old school brewing in a biodynamic like fashion, although the profile is interestingly more citrus/citric acid driven with higher acidity…a bit more like certain Sauvignon Blanc, perhaps Poully Fuisse. I kind of remember some savory yogurt notes on top of the citrus, it was a lot of fun.

Akishika is probably my most favorite from that lineup, I’d say that’s more along the lines of an Extra Dry sake and recently found out that in addition to fried chicken, it’s quite delicious with sushi too (especially fattier fish).

I remember reading somewhere that the master brewer of Takachiyo is a young guy in his late 20s (or could be very early 30s) and is a bit of a genius in his field. These are really fun apertif like sake.

Takacho comes from the same brewery that makes Kaze No Mori label. The pairing is splendid with chicken liver and I’m guessing foie gras as well with its additional sweetness and very high acidity. Probably would do quite well with spicy food too. Definitely a winner.

Glad to see that Ototo carries Noguchi. I’ve tasted that nama honjozo and it is indeed a very well built sake (although expensive for a honjozo, although Noguchi Naohiko Institute Sake are not meant to be cheap). Time to pick up a bottle soon!

[Chowseeker1999]

Hi @ColinMorey,

Thanks! Yah the Sunday Sake School is set up per week, no commitments, so you can choose if you want to participate for that week or not. Courtney will announce the theme for that week a few days ahead of the weekend (e.g., Hokkaido Sake, or exploring Muroka Nama Genshu, etc.) and usually it’s 3 Sake pours for $35 or add a Bonus pour (also in the same theme, but another Sake to explore) for $46, IIRC.

She will bottle them up, labelled and then have Sake tasting notes, talking about each Sake via a link later.

Yah, thanks for the recommendation on Kaze no Mori! Really enjoy them. And I was thrilled to find out they were the same brewery behind Takacho “Regal Hawk” Bodaimoto! Those 2 lineups combined already make them one of my favorites now. Let me know if you hear of any new additions to their lineup.

I will have to try the Akishika again with Karaage, thanks for the tip.

That’s really interesting to know about Takachiyo brewmaster. Have you tried most of the Chapters? If so, which ones did you like the most? (So far after Chapter 2, 3, 5, I like the Aiyama Rice one, Chapter 2 I think.)

And thank you for the great rec on Noguchi Naohiko! Wow. It is SO GOOD! And yah, for a Honjozo the price was a bit high, but the taste and flavor is pretty amazing.

Can’t wait to see what else the Noguchi Sake Institute is going to release. Sommelier Kaplan said that they have a Junmai Ginjo or Daiginjo I think? Can’t wait to try that (if it’s affordable enough).

[Chowseeker1999]

Update 1:

Virtual Sake School at Ototo!

For this particular visit, Owner-Sommelier Courtney Kaplan was going to host a Virtual Sake School on Japanese Sake Brewery Heiwa Shuzo (Wakayama, Japan). According to Sommelier Kaplan, Heiwa Shuzo was founded in 1928, but only really made Sake in earnest starting in the 1950’s after WWII. They took on the name “Heiwa”, which means “Peace” to mark the end of World War II.

And apparently it wasn’t until the 1990’s that the young son that was heir to Heiwa Shuzo returned to the brewery to help revitalize the family’s Sake business (which prior to that was making inexpensive carton Sake).

For this tasting, the special treat was being able to meet Heiwa Shuzo’s Toji (Master Brewer)! Courtney was able to arrange for the Toji to not only talk about the Sake, but also give us a tour of Heiwa Shuzo online! Very cool. We got to try 4 bottles in their lineup.

KID - Junmai Sake:

Refreshing, lightly sweet, a bit more rustic (in a good way) compared to the rest of the lineup. Delicious.

KID - Junmai Daiginjo Sake

As expected their Junmai Daiginjo was fruitier, floral, some sweetness, and finished so cleanly.

KID - Junmai Ginjo Shiboritate Sake

A Winter release, Shiboritate is basically unaged Sake, fresh from the presses. This was hard to describe as in a bit of unfortunate circumstance, the plastic container for this pour had a weird chemical smell to it! I chalk it up to a fluke as the rest of the containers were fine, darn.

KID - Junmai Ginjo Hiyaoroshi Sake

An Autumn Sake, left to mature through the Summer and then released in the Autumn, this results in a taste that’s rounder, more complex, still fruity, with sweetness, and tasty!

Fried Chicken Sandwich (Kara-age Style Fried Jidori Chicken, Yuzu Kosho Slaw, Daikon Pickles, Brioche Sesame Bun):

Given the mediocrity of Tsubaki’s menu, we had low expectations here, but their new To-Go Menu (during COVID-19) is simplified food, and it seems to have helped with execution. This was a solid Fried Chicken Sandwich. Definitely edible, the Fried Jidori Chicken isn’t as super crispy-crunchy as a usual American Fried Chicken Sandwich, but had a light crunch to it. The weak link was the overall taste: It was fine, but tasted like a standard-ish Kara-age style seasoning, just with a Sesame Seed Bun.

Japanese Curry Rice:

The server confirmed that they make their own Curry in-house, but the base did taste like S&B or House as the basis, but with additional enhancements on top. Still, the Beef morsels and overall Curry Sauce was aromatic, zesty, with a Curry Powder driven front note, some beefiness from the cooked down Beef within. I’d order this again if I was in the area for lunch and hankering for Japanese Curry.

Another Visit:

Finally just this past week, Tsubaki / Ototo announced that they just got in Shichida’s famous Spring Sake! Time for a visit!

Shichida - (Spring Release) Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake (Saga, Japan):

Now an annual celebration, when you see Shichida’s Spring Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake in your local restaurants, it marks the arrival of Spring! Taking a sip…

Wild, sweet, yeasty, naturally effervescent! It’s like a party in your mouth, so many flavors and layers and it’s so expressive! We completely missed last year’s Shichida Spring release because the pandemic had just hit and everyone was in lockdown. So it’s been 2 years(!) since we last enjoyed this amazing Sake.

Definitely one of the best Sake we’ve had this year, and as enjoyable as the last Shichida Spring Muroka Nama Genshu we tried 2 years ago. Thanks again @ColinMorey!

Soriresu (Two Skewers Charcoal Grilled Chicken Oysters, Yuzu Kosho):

Wanting to see how the kitchen progressed now that they were back open for outdoor dining, we decided to try a few dishes along with the excellent Sake. The Soriresu were 2 Yakitori Skewers of Grilled Chicken Oysters. These were too salty, oversalted in seasoning and then the Yuzu Kosho inherently is salty as well. The lack of understanding here sunk the dish. The actual flavor also lacked the depth of great Binchotan (Japanese Charcoal) Yakitori.

Yoshidagura - “U-nique!” - Yamahai Junmai Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):

Thankfully things bounced back quickly with yet another stunning Sake recommendation from Sommelier Kaplan: Yoshidagura “U-nique!” Yamahai Junmai Sake. It appears Yoshidagura is from the son of excellent Japanese Sake Brewery Tedorigawa! (@ColinMorey @ipsedixit @A5KOBE @Sgee @paranoidgarliclover), which is the makers of one of my favorite QPR selections, Tedorigawa Kinka “Gold Blossom” Nama Daiginjo Sake, which is super delicious, easy to drink and sells for only ~$43 per bottle! (Thanks again @ColinMorey)

So the son of the brewery released a new Yamahai under his own label (but still brewed at Tedorigawa according to Courtney) called “Yoshidagura”. This Yamahai-style Sake is totally different from Tedorigawa’s Yamahai that we’ve had multiple times. This one is definitely “unique” as it’s bright, summery, refreshing, lightly sweet. Excellent!

Ikura Ochazuke (Steamed Koshihikari Rice, House-Cured Salmon Roe, Mitsuba, Wasabi, Genmai Matcha Wasabi Broth):

Thankfully their Ochazuke turned out to be good and one of the safe items to order on the menu (it’s hard to mess up Steamed Rice, Ikura (Salmon Roe) and Hot Tea poured on top). This was tasty though, as the Ikura (Salmon Roe) and Steamed Rice, with some of the Genmai Matcha Broth was perfect to keep us warm in the chilly outdoors. I’d order this again.

(Off-Menu) Takeno Tsuyu - Hakurosuishu - “Moon Mountain’s Dew” - Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake (Yamagata, Japan):

And in a stunning surprise, Courtney brought out something not on the menu, but also fitting this Spring season: Takeno Tsuyu (quickly becoming a favorite thanks to @ColinMorey)'s Hakurosuishu - “Moon Mountain’s Dew” release of a Muroka Nama Genshu(!) Junmai Ginjo Sake. I’d never heard of this one before (having tried their Junmai Daiginjo last year).

This was wild with big flavors, and not overly sweet (like their Junmai Daiginjo), but it finished super crisp and clean! Outstanding! We really enjoyed their simple Takeno Tsuyu Junmai at Torihei, but this Muroka Nama Genshu is a lot of fun.

Tsubaki and Ototo continue to provide an important gateway for folks interested in tasting and learning more about Japanese Sake, thanks to Owner-Sommelier Courtney Kaplan. She continues to shine here, bringing over some really interesting, not as commonly found Sake, where too many of our local Japanese restaurants just carry the big brand names these days.

With Spring arriving, there’s never been a better time to try some delicious Sake, with all of the Spring limited releases. If you can only try one, be sure to try Shichida’s Spring Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake. It will show a side of “Sake” that you’ve experienced before if you’re mainly drinking Junmai Ginjo / Daiginjo’s from the big brands.

After that, just sit back and ask Courtney for additional recommendations and enjoy the wonderful world of Japanese Sake with interesting insight from the outstanding Sommelier.

Ototo Sake Bar & Tsubaki
1360 Allison Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Tel: (213) 784-7930

Note: Outdoor Dining is currently being done through Tsubaki.

OTOTO | ECHO PARK SAKE BAR

Tsubaki | A Japanese restaurant in Echo Park, Los Angeles

[Chowseeker1999]

Update 1:
It had been awhile since our last visit to Ototo (the casual Sake Bar / eatery) and Tsubaki (the more formal, fusion-Izakaya pub and sister restaurant next door). But we wanted to show support for the Japanese Sake industry and just enjoy some chilled, refreshing beverages to beat the heat.

Once again, Co-Owner and Sake Sommelier Courtney Kaplan continues to shine (at both restaurants), curating one of the most interesting lists of Japanese Sake in the region. She finds unique, odd, interesting and tasty offerings without breaking the bank.

We ask Sommelier Kaplan for some Sake recommendations. On this visit, she starts us off with:

Gokyo - Junmai Nama Sake (Yamaguchi, Japan):

Clean, refreshing, with an almost citrus sharpness (in a good way). There’s a touch of alcoholic note (imbalance), but a nice starter otherwise.

Potato Salad (Pickled Takana, Cucumber, Soft Egg, Ikura):

Fans of Japanese Potato Salad take note: Chef Charles Namba has been improving his craft in the opening of his 2nd restaurant, Ototo. The focus on more casual, simpler Japanese cuisine has allowed him and the kitchen staff to get back to basics and over the last few visits (spanning 1 year), we’ve noticed an improvement to the point that there are now menu items that would be pretty solid (which is a big improvement).

Take this Potato Salad for instance: It’s balanced, not overly Mayo’d like many versions, not overly tart. This earlier iteration used Takana and a Hanjyuku Tamago (Soft-Boiled Egg) with Ikura (Salmon Roe). The Triple Egg combo is a bit excessive, but delicious.

Tenmei - Aged 1 Year - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Fukushima, Japan):

This was a standout Sake recommendation from Sommelier Kaplan. Courtney mentions that this Sake was aged in its unpasteurized state for 1 year at sub-freezing temperatures(!), and then flash-pasteurized and sent out. Neat.

It was amazing. clean, refreshing. There’s a light sweetness, but things remain in balance, and it’s a perfect antidote to the hot Summer heat right now.

Tomato Salad (The Garden Of… Blush Tomatoes, Ponzu Vinaigrette):

A great showcase of the local organic farm “The Garden Of…”, and their excellent Organic Blush Tomatoes. The Ponzu Vinaigrette worked well, however it was a touch overdressed.

Soma no Tengu - “Forest Spirit” - Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Usu-Nigori Sake (Shiga, Japan):

First, yes, this has to be one of the longer names for Japanese Sake just on the descriptor labeling alone! But this sounded really interesting based on it: It’s a Sake that’s Not Charcoal-Filtered (Muroka), to allow more aroma (according to the brewer); it’s Unpasteurized (Nama), which is supposed to give it more bright / lively aspects, and Undiluted (Genshu) for a richer flavor. And it’s Usu-Nigori (Slightly Cloudy) because they add in some of the finest part of the fermentation mash.

Unfortunately, all of that didn’t work well for this brewery and this bottle of Soma no Tengu: It had an immediate Alcohol burn (not good), then some light, fruity sweetness on the mid-palate, followed by more Alcohol notes, then with a semi-clean finish, but still leaving you with a distinct trailing Alcohol note. One of the very few Sake misses on Ototo and Tsubaki’s menu.

Ode to Mos Burger (Beef Patty, Housemade Japanese Chili, Heirloom Tomato, Yuzu Thousand Island, Shredded Iceberg, Sesame Bun):

We quite enjoyed the 1st time we tried Chef Namba’s Ode to Mos Burger, and thankfully this next time ordering it was as consistently good. While we’ve never tried a Chili Burger from Mos Burger in Japan, this version was just a legit, delicious Chili Burger that wasn’t as heavy as many versions around town (of a standard American Chili Burger). We’d definitely order this again.

Nagoya-Style Tebasaki (Chicken Wings, Sesame Tare Glaze):

Unfortunately, the Nagoya-style Tebasaki was a bit too heavy-handed. To be fair, we’ve had some Nagoya-inspired dishes over the years that are also very big and bold, but it does taste just too excessive in the Sesame Tare. It’s too salty-sweet (obviously good for drinking food, so maybe that’s the intention, but it does feel like it would obliterate some of the lighter Sake in pairing).

Takachiyo 59 - Kame No O - Chapter Nine - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):

One of the most interesting exploration of Sake by a brewer in Japan, Sommelier Kaplan previously introduced to us the Takachiyo 59 series of Sake with Chapter One and Chapter Two. Essentially the brewery will make each bottle in the exact same way, however, for each “Chapter” (bottle release), they use a different Rice for the basis. This allows you to explore and see the very specific impact that Rice has on the Sake. Very cool!

Ototo just got in Chapter Nine again, which uses 100% Kame No O Rice. This was dramatically different from Chapter One and Chapter Two that we had previously. It was shocking, but also very enlightening. This Kame No O had an earthiness, but also a sharp, distinct quality.

Nasu Tempura (Japanese Eggplant, Shaved Onion, Sweet Soy):

We adore a good Nasu (Eggplant) Tempura. This version was a bit too greasy / oily, the batter didn’t hold up well. It was fine for a local neighborhood spot, but when compared to a Tempura Specialist like Inaba, there’s no comparison.

Pork Belly Yakisoba (Pan-Fried Noodles, Bean Sprouts, Aonori, Beni Shoga):

Their Yakisoba was passable. Too oily and greasy, it was fine for a simple local spot, but again, nothing to write home about unfortunately. (Note this dish changes over time (more below).)

Kikuhime - Yamahai Ginjo Genshu Origarami Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):

I’ve enjoyed Kikuhime (“Chrysanthemum Princess”) brewery previously, so it was great to see this new bottling. Another great recommendation from Sommelier Kaplan, this Kikuhime is a Yamahai style (using naturally occurring lactic bacteria (instead of commercial lactic acid)), and we learned the Origarami moniker denotes a “hazy” style of Sake, where a small amount of the Rice particulate is left in the bottle. This was a bit wild, fragrant, with quite a few layers of taste. Enjoyable.

Another Visit:

On a subsequent visit over the past year, we started with…

Chokaisan - Junmai Daiginjo Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Akita, Japan):

We normally lean more towards Junmai Daiginjo Sake (the highest level of Rice polishing), but to see one that’s also Muroka (No Charcoal Filtration), Nama (Unpasteurized) and Genshu (Undiluted) is much rarer. This sounded fun.

The nose and front palate on this was mainly acetone. There was some alcoholic burn, but beyond that there were some refined notes with a decent finish.

Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns (Soy, Wasabi):

These were, indeed, Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, freshly dispatched, and plump, firm, but supple, creamy and delicious. The pairing worked pretty well actually, but by itself, the Chokaisan isn’t something we’d order again.

Takachiyo 59 - Chapter Two - Aiyama - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):

On this visit, they just restocked the Takachiyo 59, Chapter Two bottle, exploring 100% Aiyama Rice, which was our favorite of the series. Taking a sip, it tasted different from what I remembered (which was about 2 years earlier): This was musty, with wet forest, dank notes, but a very clean finish. It was interesting, different, but enjoyable. We remembered this being less heavy in the past, but perhaps it was just nostalgia, or over the past few years this Chapter Two has changed slightly from bottling to bottling.

Kyuru Sunomono (Vinegared Cucumbers, Avocado, Dungeness Crab):

This was fine.

Tamagawa - Ice Breaker - Nama Junmai Ginjo Sake (Kyoto, Japan):

I’ve heard a lot about Tamagawa’s “Ice Breaker” Sake and have been eager to try it. Plus, just look at the label! Penguins.

This was refreshing, sweet, floral, zesty, bold! Later on there are almost coffee chocolatey notes. A nice way to open the meal.

Radicchio Salad (Fennel, Blush Tomatoes, Avocado, Parmesan, Soy Vinaigrette):

I appreciate the Vegetable offerings that Chef Namba and team have been keeping on the menu at Ototo and Tsubaki. While not commonly found in Japan, this is a great dish reflecting California that worked here. I loved the fresh, Farmers Market Radicchio, the inherent bitterness, crispness, balanced by the sweet umami Blush Tomatoes, creamy Avocado and the Soy Vinaigrette.

Gindara Tempura (Black Cod Tempura, Tentsuyu Oroshi):

This was much better than the previous Eggplant Tempura (which was too oily). The batter held up better here.

Yaki Onigiri (Grilled Rice Balls):

Yaki Onigiri are always a nice way to wrap up a meal. These are pretty solid, with a nice crunch, but it does feel like it lacks the smokiness of a great Binchotan Grilled version. Also, it’s a bit disconcerting to hear our server say that they use Butter(!) in the Onigiri. Just unnecessary.

Nikuman (Housemade Steamed Pork Buns, Shoyu, Karashi Hot Mustard):

There is definitely a lack of Housemade Nikuman (Steamed Pork Buns) in Southern California, so when we see it offered on a menu, it’s a must-order. Unfortunately, Ototo’s new Nikuman are pretty mediocre. The issue is the Steamed Bun exterior: It’s just too stodgy. The inside Marinated Ground Pork is fine, but a bit one note. Japanese Bakery Cream Pan’s Nikuman is far superior (fluffy, moist, and a well-balanced filling). (@ipsedixit @BradFord and all.)

Another Visit:

On this visit, Sommelier Kaplan had just got in a rare Shizuku bottle, so we had to give that a try!

Shichi Hon Yari - “The Seven Spearsmen” - Shizuku Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Shiga, Japan):

Ever since we tried the stunning Kokuryu (Black Dragon) Shizuku Sake at Mori Sushi, we’ve been on a hunt to try more Shizuku (Unpressed or “Gravity Pressed”) Sake when possible.

While not a exquisite as the Kokuryu (Black Dragon), this Shichi Hon Yari (The Seven Spearsmen) Shizuku was delicate, lightly floral, clean, smooth, and with a lingering, dry, easy finish. Lovely. (@BradFord @A5KOBE @Sgee and all)

Hiramasa Sashimi (Yellowtail Amberjack, Fresh Wasabi, Shoyu):

This was fine. Meaty, tender, a nice balance of fat and lean, but lacking that bit to elevate it to top tier Sashimi (sourcing, knife skills, etc.) (see Aburiya Raku back in the day for stunning Sashimi preparation).

Ebi Fry (Panko-Fried New Caledonian Blue Prawns, Yuzu Tartar Sauce, Cured Ikura, Kushi Katsu Sauce):

The Ebi Fry with Panko-Fried Caledonian Blue Prawns is another passable dish. It’s not bad, the Fried Prawns taste fresh, but the frying technique and execution just tastes OK. It’s soaked up too much oil, it’s not crispy enough, but for the neighborhood, this is probably the best you’re going to get.

KID - Hiyaoroshi - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Wakayama, Japan):

We’re big fans of Heiwa Shuzou’s KID Sake. Most of their bottlings we’ve tried have been fresh, bright and tasty. This seasonal bottle of KID is a Hiyaoroshi, celebrating the Autumn season. Only once pasteurized, and then matured for a few seasons, KID’s version of Hiyaoroshi was round and rich, full of flavor. Definitely a tasty Sake, but between the 2 most recent Hiyaoroshi Sake we’ve had, we liked the Shichida Hiyaoroshi just a touch more. Still, we’d be glad to drink either.

Miyazaki A5 Wagyu Niku Jaga (Japanese-style “Meat & Potatoes,” Shirataki Noodles, Soy Dashi Broth):

This sounded luxurious and amazing, because a legit Niku Jaga is one of our favorite dishes in Japan. With Ototo trying a version with Grade A5 Wagyu Beef from Miyazaki, Japan, it sounded like a win-win. Sadly, this was undermined by the star ingredient: If this was Grade A5 Wagyu Beef, then the team needs to inquire into the sourcing because the Beef slices we got in this bowl were stringy, full of gristle. I’ve never had real Grade A5 Wagyu with this much gristle before. So there was some rich fattiness, but then you got a mouthful of stringy gristle mixed in, and had to stop and discreetly spit out the unchewable gristle before taking another bite.

The actual Niku Jaga flavors were fine, but a bit too sweet as well, reminding us more of a Sukiyaki than more home-style Niku Jaga. It’s examples like this, that still show the weakness at Tsubaki and Ototo.

Tonkatsu (Panko-Fried Peads & Barnetts Pork Loin, Sesame Tonkatsu Sauce):

This turned out to be a solid version of Tonkatsu (Deep Fried Pork Cutlet). The Pork Loin was moist and meaty, Peads and Barnetts has usually delivered a nice porcine flavor in their various Pork cuts. This was another noteworthy dish to order at Ototo as their menu develops.

Tae no Hana - Sublime Beauty - Arabashiri Kimoto Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Mie, Japan):

This Tae no Hana Sake had a nuttiness, but also a pleasant earthiness, and an overall robust mouthfeel.

Tsubaki - Another Visit:

On this visit, we stopped into Tsubaki, the more “formal” (still casual, but more formal than Ototo) sister restaurant to Ototo next door. The menu is still from Chef Charles Namba and Sommelier Courtney Kaplan brings together the Sake menu at both places.

Jikon - Tokubetsu Junmai Sake (Mie, Japan):

The nose on this was a bit of a surprise: Strawberries, fruitiness, a light funk. Taking a sip: Sweet, smooth, vibrant, but an unpleasant note of Rubbing Alcohol.

Kanpachi Sashimi (Great Amberjack):

A touch too soft, and not as bright as the best Kanpachi offerings we’ve had around the city.

Green Beans, Sesame Dressing Salad:

Oshinko - Assorted Japanese Pickles of Yuzu Asian Pear, Sesame Cucumber, Ume Daikon:

The Oshinko course is another good example of the challenges of the food at Tsubaki: It’s tastes like it’s a fusion / reinvention of the dish but in a way that’s off-balance. Each of the Pickles were too extreme. The Yuzu Asian Pear pickled were too tart and sweet, the Sesame Cucumber was lip smacking and the Ume Daikon was also too much.

Kojima Sohonten - Untitled - Cedar Barrel Aged Sake (Yamagata, Japan):

This was a cool, unique bottle that Sommelier Kaplan recommended from Kojima Sohonten. It’s “Untitled” and is a Cedar Barrel Aged Sake(!). The initial smell is light and delicately sweet. There’s definitely Cedar wood notes as well. The taste is super light, delicate, smooth, clean with a long trailing finish. Definitely interesting.

Atsu-Age Kushiyaki (Thick Cut, Fried Meiji Tofu Skewer, Scallions, Katsuobushi, Myoga Ginger):

I love a good Atsu-Age offering. I appreciate that they source from local Tofu makers Meiji, but the execution is once again underwhelming. It’s fine, nothing standout, a bit chewy and thick and it tastes like the sum of its parts.

BORN - Muroka Nama Genshu - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):

BORN is another enjoyable lineup that we enjoy (from Gold, to Nihon no Tsubasa and more). On this evening, Tsubaki had their Muroka Nama Genshu Sake in stock. There’s a very delicate, tame nose. Then after a sip, you get rich, robust, rough flavors. It’s a bit uneven though, but then again, this is a Muroka Nama Genshu, so you’re prepared for a more dynamic offering. It has a good, clean finish.

Soriresu (Chicken Oysters):

One of the weakest links in Tsubaki’s menu has always been their mediocre Yakitori (Grilled Chicken Skewers). Compared to the various Yakitori offerings around the city, and Tsubaki’s skewers have always been average at best. It had been since before the pandemic but we wanted to see if there was any improvement, so we ordered a few.

The Soriresu (Chicken Oysters) should be a standout skewer based on the succulent bit of Oyster-shaped meat from the Chicken Thigh. Taking a bite:

Still as average as before. There’s no finesse, no smoke that you’d get from a solid version grilled over Binchotan (Japanese White Charcoal) at other spots locally (this isn’t even comparing to Japan). It’s overly salty and just not good. (@BradFord @ipsedixit and all.)

Sunagimo - Chicken Gizzards:

This was fine. Again, no smoke, tasting mainly of cooked-through, salty Chicken Gizzards over a gas flame perhaps.

Nankotsu (Chicken Cartilage) & Bonchiri (Chicken Tail):

Perhaps part of the challenge / frustration is that all of the Yakitori are over-seasoned, perhaps to compensate for the fact that they don’t offer any traditional Shichimi Togarashi (7 Spice Condiment) nor Sansho Pepper condiment that’s usually found at many local Yakitori-ya. And it’s fine if their Shio (Salt) or Tare (Soy Sauce-based Sauce) seasonings were balanced, but they aren’t. It just tastes excessive, a bit clumsy and with no smoke and a lack of legit Yakitori execution, you get skewers like this. Made for the local hamster crowd and nothing more.

Kani Chahan (Garlic Fried Rice with Dungeness Crab):

A word of warning that they usually use a bunch of Butter in their Fried Rice offerings. If this were French cuisine, sure, you expect a ton of Butter in various dishes, but for Japanese Fried Rice? No. It’s unnecessary and is distracting. So we asked for them to make it without it on this visit. This was fine. It lacks any real Breath of the Work, but it’s a decent version and something safe to order if you need some food with the great Sake offerings.

Akitabare - Suirakuten - Daiginjo Sake (Akita, Japan):

Always an enjoyable Sake, it had been a few years since we last had this Akitare. It was balanced, sweet, round and just pleasurable to drink. It had a smooth, clean, crisp finish. Just a solid Daiginjo Sake if you’re looking for something in this vein.

Ototo - Lunch - Another Visit:

In a partial return to pre-COVID-19 times, Ototo started up Lunch offerings again (although To-Go Only), with 2 interesting-sounding offerings that I have a soft spot for.

Ototo Fried Chicken:

We’re always on the lookout for great Fried Chicken, so when Ototo announced they were going to have a Fried Chicken Lunch Special, it was off to give it a try.

We placed our order for a specific time and showed up 5 minutes early. Even showing up early, it looks like our Fried Chicken was already ready and packaged (which is disastrous for Fried Chicken, since it “steams” in the To-Go packaging).

Thankfully it looks like it was only steaming for a few minutes because the Chicken was still slightly crunchy. Unfortunately, that was the only good thing. It was way too dark (see pics above), looking like it was fried at the wrong temperature and/or the frying oil was not clean / not a fresh batch.

Taking a bite: Slightly crunchy, too salty, and with a slight (just a hint) of burnt backnotes. The search continues. (@ipsedixit @paranoidgarliclover and all.)

Ototo Fish Sandwich:

In a tribute to the Golden Arches’ Filet-O-Fish Sandwich, here Ototo makes their version, but with higher quality ingredients. Thankfully the Ototo Fish Sandwich was much better than their Fried Chicken. The Sesame Seed Bun was pillowy and soft, but held together well (a huge improvement from McDonald’s version (one would hope!)). The Fried Fish was barely crisped, another disadvantage to getting items To-Go (but that was the only option), but it tasted of a high quality Fried Rockfish, flaky and moist. The Yuzu Tartar Sauce worked here with a hint of citrus lightening up each bite.

One can only hope they make this for Dinner, or Dine-In Lunch sometime, as eating it freshly fried out of the kitchen should be very good at that point. Definitely one of the better items from Ototo.

Ototo - Dinner - Another Visit:

Daikon Salad (Shaved Daikon, Market Radish, Gyoza Crisps, Ume Shiso Vinaigrette):

I appreciate Chef Namba and team trying different types of dressings for their veggie offerings. I love Ume and I love Shiso, but this Ume Shiso Vinaigrete on their Daikon Salad (for this visit a few months back) was excessively tart and overpowered the Daikon and Radish. That’s all you could taste.

Potato Salad (Whole Grain Mustard, Iburi Gakko, Kurobuta Pork Sausage):

Their Potato Salad was one of the better menu options on Ototo’s menu. On this visit, Chef Namba and team mix it up with using Iburi Gakko (Smoked, Pickled Daikon) and throwing in a Kurobuta Pork Sausage. The Potato Salad itself was still tasty, the Iburi Gakko lent a light smoky, crunchy quality (nice), but the Kurobuta Pork Sausage thrown on top was excessively salty and really didn’t need to be there.

Gasanryu - Gokugetsu - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Yamagata, Japan):

I’ve heard good things about Gasanryu. This Junmai Daiginjo had flavors of Berries, a bit prickly and zesty! But also with a nice florality and quite smooth. Tasty.

Crispy Tofu (Fried Silken Tofu, Housemade Sichuan Peppercorn Chili Oil):

On this occasion, Chef Namba was not in the kitchen, and this Crispy Tofu was sadly anything but crispy. It was drowning in their Sichuan Peppercorn Chili Oil, which turned the Tofu soggy, and it made each bite excessively salty and spicy.

Tonkatsu (Panko Fried Peads & Barnetts Pork Loin Cutlet, Sesame Tonkatsu Sauce, Hot Mustard, Snowy Cabbage):

Their Tonkatsu (Fried Pork Cutlet) on this visit was thankfully still solid. It won’t dethrone Kagura, but for something to pair with the excellent Sake menu, this is a safe bet.

Otokoyama - Shiboritate - Tokubetsu Junmai Nama Genshu Sake (Hokkaido, Japan):

Sake fans will recognize the name Otokoyama. It’s one of the bigger names seen on many menus locally. But this seasonal release for the Spring is rarer, and it’s got a polar bear on the label. This was very refreshing, clean, not as complex as we were thinking, but definitely a nice one to enjoy at this time of year.

Tebasaki (Nagoya-style Chicken Wings, Sesame Tare):

We were hoping for an improvement with their Tebasaki Chicken Wings. Unfortunately, it’s the same as before. Their Sesame Tare Sauce is just too much. It’s too salty, too sweet, and I definitely understand the idea for Izakaya offerings to encourage / pair with drinks, and even “pub food” in general, but the Sauce was simply excessive to the point that we’d need to gulp down lots of Sake or a big mouthful of Rice to balance it out.

Jikon - Tokubetsu Junmai Sake (Mie, Japan):

While the first time we had Jikon wasn’t very balanced, we were encouraged to give it another try. The Jikon Tokubetsu Junmai on this visit was much better! I’m not sure if it was a bad bottle last time (supply chain issues and all that), but on this visit, the Jikon was beautifully sweet, balanced with a pleasing round mouthfeel and a clean finish. Very good!

Tsubaki - Another Visit:

With the end of Spring, to celebrate the various Spring seasonal offerings, we stopped by Tsubaki for another visit a few months later.

KID - Haru no Kunpu (“Spring Breeze”) - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Wakayama, Japan):

KID continues to deliver some fun, refreshing offerings. Their Spring seasonal release this year is Haru no Kunpu “Spring Breeze”, and it was indeed evoking the Spring. Gentle floral notes, crisp, refreshing, excellent finish, a great starter.

Oshinko - Assorted Japanese Pickles of Yuzu Asian Pear, Sesame Cucumber, Ume Daikon:

Sadly, their Oshinko (Assorted Japanese Pickles) were still as unbalanced as previous visits. It’s passable, but too tart, too big in its flavors and it throws off your palate.

Saya Endo - Two Peas in a Pod (Sugar Snap Peas, Whipped Meiji Tofu, Ponzu Vinaigrette, Crispy Shallot, Sobacha):

This was refreshing and a good dish. The local farmers market Sugar Snap Peas were so crisp, fresh and super bright. The pairing with Whipped Meiji Tofu added a delicate creaminess, and the Crispy Shallots gave it just a touch of that fun umami. This is the type of stuff you were hoping Tsubaki could’ve delivered, but it’s just few and far inbetween.

Chawanmushi (Steamed Egg Custard, Dungeness Crab):

The Steamed Egg itself was light and custardy, but the texture was off (air bubbles throughout). The Dungeness Crab was inherently sweet and a good pairing. Not bad, but if they can master Chawanmushi making, this would be a noteworthy dish to order here.

Kinoko Tempura (Market Mushrooms, Tentsuyu Dipping Sauce, Grated Daikon, Yuzu Shichimi):

The frying for the Tempura on this visit to Tsubaki was much improved. The Mushroom Tempura was actually not greasy for once. This was a solid dish and something we’d actually order again.

Nankotsu (Chicken Cartilage):

In the hope against hope that their Yakitori skills improved, we ordered 2 skewers to test it out. Sadly, it’s the same as before. This is a passable, grilled skewer of Chicken Breast Meat with the Yagen (Chicken Breast Cartilage) intact. It’s actually got too much Chicken Breast Meat, so you’re not really eating Yagen as you are “Chicken Breast Skewer with a bit of Cartilage”. It lacked any smoke, the Tare Sauce was excessive.

Soriresu (Chicken Oysters):

The Soriresu (Chicken Oysters) Skewer was even worse, and the same as the previous 3 times we’ve tried it. Just excessively salty, unbalanced, and lacking any smoke or subtlety. At $12 per order, this also makes it that much worse. Avoid.

Rihaku - Origin of Purity - Junmai Ginjo Genshu Nama Sake (Shimane, Japan):

Another Spring Sake that Sommelier Kaplan imported in, the Rihaku “Origin of Purity” was a Nama (Unpasteurized) Sake that was fruity sweet, clean and had the lightness to celebrate Spring.

Kani Chahan (Garlic Fried Rice with Dungeness Crab):

No Breath of the Wok, but their Kani Chahan is thankfully consistently OK (make sure to ask them to omit the unnecessary Butter).

Ototo - Dinner - Another Visit:

While we had just visited Tsubaki recently, there are certain events that require Sake fans to make a return to a place, even if it’s only to drink the Sake. This was one of those times.

Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute - Natsu no Namazake (Ishikawa, Japan):

It turns out Sommelier Kaplan had just gotten in the rare Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute’s new Summer seasonal offering: Natsu no Namazake! For those that don’t know, Noguchi Naohiko is considered by many to be the “Godfather of Sake,” very well respected. We were blown away by his Honjozo offering awhile back, and there were very few bottles after that (jumping up excessively in price).

This Summer Sake was stunning! Zesty, like a party in your mouth. So many layers, complex, fun, lively. Another very good bottling from the Sake Institute and I can see why Noguchi-san is so respected (and this is a new release after he came back out of retirement)! (@BradFord @ipsedixit @A5KOBE and all.)

(NEW) Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings, Mustard, Shoyu):

We had very low hopes on this new dish that was recently added to Ototo’s menu. First, having Chef Namba attempt a Japanese-American interpretation of a Chinese Shumai dish sounded risky; especially with the uneven menu offerings at both restaurants (but moreso at Tsubaki). Taking a bite:

Seriously. These were flat-out delicious!

Plump, moist, delicately seasoned Marinated Ground Pork. These weren’t anything like a traditional Hong Kong / Cantonese Dim Sum Shumai, but we actually liked these much better than most Shumai around town. These just hit that perfect palate pleasing spectrum for us. A bit of Karashi (Japanese Mustard) just made it that much more fun and worked as well.

The first, simply delicious, great offering on either menu that we’d order again and again. Finally. (@ipsedixit @BradFord @paranoidgarliclover @A5KOBE @chienrouge and all.)

Shichida - Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake (Saga, Japan):

And the 2nd reason for our visit today (after the Noguchi Naohiko Institute Summer release), Sommelier Kaplan just got in this year’s Shichida - Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake. For those that may not know, one of the most unique seasonal Sake offerings is Shichida’s Spring bottle release, their Muroka (Non-Charcoal Filtered) Nama (Unpasteurized) Genshu (Undiluted), which all adds up to huge flavors. It’s naturally effervescent, and that light fizziness adds to the fun.

And this 2022 Spring release is just as fun as last year’s bottle. It’s wild, fizzy, umami, sweetness, but not overly sweet, and beyond the complexity, it’s just a clean finish. Incredible! (@BradFord @A5KOBE and all)

Tonkatsu (Panko Fried Peads & Barnetts Pork Loin Cutlet, Sesame Tonkatsu Sauce):

And unfortunately on this visit with so many great things going on, their Tonkatsu was only OK (the previous 2 times were better). This was a touch overcooked (see pic above), leading to a dryish, meaty, chewy Tonkatsu. Like a Pork Chop overcooked. The breading also slipped off on a few pieces.

Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute - Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):

In a unique tasting chance, besides trying the Godfather of Sake’s new Summer Namazake release this evening, Sommelier Kaplan also got in Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute’s Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu! Also very rarely seen locally, this was a lot of fun to try in the same evening. Unlike the Summer release, this was on the earthier side. Still wild, a bit all over the place (in a good way), I think in the end, I preferred his OG Honjozo and the Natsu Namazake over this one, but we’re glad to have tried it. Very interesting.

Tedorigawa - Kinka - Daiginjo Nama Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):

One of the great subsequent losses after Aburiya Raku closed during the pandemic, was the loss of a consistent source of Tedorigawa “Kinka” Sake. One of my all-time favorites for just a fairly priced, absolutely delicious Sake, Raku was the primary source locally for a restaurant carrying this bottle and pairing it with great food.

So it was really nice to see Sommelier Kaplan finally add this to the menu on this visit (hopefully it stays). Taking a sip:

Incredibly clean, lightly fruity, delicately fragrant, but also a crisp, creamy, smooth fantastic finish. A stunner still, and a reason it’s so beloved.

Furosen Wataribune - Yamahai Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Shiga, Japan):

Wow. A fantastic finishing Sake for the evening from Sommelier Courtney. This Furosen bottle was super flavorful, sweet Sugar notes, lactic acid, some tang, aromatic, and with a clean finish!

This was one of the greatest Sake tasting evenings we’ve had in a long time.

Ototo - Another Visit:

On a recent visit, we once again deferred to Sommelier Kaplan for a variety of recommendations. We started with:

Matsu no Tsukasa - Arabashiri 2021 - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Shiga, Japan):

This was a pleasant surprise. First debuting at Shibumi recently, we hadn’t seen Matsu no Tsukasa released anywhere else locally. But on this visit a month later, we were glad to see Ototo get this brewery’s bottles in stock as well.

This Arabashiri release is rather uncommon, representing the “first cut” or “initial rough run” of Sake. This was rich, earthy, sweet, round, with a clean, long finish. Very good!

Yaki Soba (Pan-Fried Noodles, Peads & Barnetts Pork Belly, Cabbage, Garlic Chives):

The kitchen is definitely improving over time. On one of our most recent visits (now a year since our first entry in this post), the Yaki Soba was much better in execution than before. Chef Namba was in the kitchen on this evening, and the Yaki Soba wasn’t greasy, nicely pan-fried, it was soft, but with enough texture and toothsome qualities, and it wasn’t overly seasoned. It was just a solid Yaki Soba dish that we’d be glad to order again. Well done.

Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings, Karashi, Shoyu):

Wanting to make sure our last time trying this new dish wasn’t a fluke, on this 2nd time trying it, it was thankfully as delicious as our 1st time! Juicy, moist, tender Marinated Ground Pork filling, this Buta Shumai was legit delicious, especially with a bit of the Karashi Japanese Hot Mustard.

Matsu no Tsukasa - Raku - Shiboritate Nama 2021 - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Shiga, Japan):

And the Matsu no Tsukasa bottle that captured my attention last month at Shibumi, their Raku bottling that is a Shiboritate Nama, also showed up here at Ototo this evening! Taking a sip:

This was also quite round, full-flavored, sweet, but not as sweet as the Arabashiri, with orchard fruits, minerality and a dry, clean finish. Amazing!

Minato - “Harbor” - Yamahai Nama Genshu Sake (Akita, Japan):

And we finished off this evening with a final rec from Sommelier Kaplan. Besides the distinct, metal cannister of a bottle, this Minato “Harbor” Sake was a monster Sake. It was heavy. At 21% ABV (42 Proof), that’s far above many Sake offerings, and it felt like you were punched by big flavor, dusty woods, mushroom, earthiness, and again, very heavy. This is not a Sake you drink straight up by itself. We needed some greasy food to balance this out.

Ototo - Latest Visit:

And finally on our most recent visit last week, we rounded this out with a few more interesting Sake from Sommelier Kaplan, not only for the tastiness of chilled, cool Sake, but to beat the Summer heat!

Potato Salad (Weiser Magic Myrna Potatoes, Celery, Anchovy, Sorrel, Whole Grain Mustard, Fried Capers):

OK, this latest iteration of Chef Namba’s Japanese Potato Salad is probably his best one yet. I appreciate the slight tweaking, each time to give it a subtle variation. I liked the Iburi Gakko twist last time, but this visit had a change to using one of the best local farmers - Weiser Family Farms - famous for their excellent Potatoes (so many varieties!), and the Celery, Anchovy, Sorrel was just excellent! This is one of the better Japanese Potato Salads we have locally that I’ve tried in a longtime.

This is noteworthy in that this marks the 2nd solid, tasty dish that we’d order again and want to eat at Ototo.

KID - Natsu no Shippu (“Summer’s Strong Wind”) - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Wakayama, Japan):

And in time for Summer, Sommelier Kaplan starts us off with an excellent new seasonal Summer release from KID, their Natsu no Shippu (“Summer’s Strong Wind”), a Junmai Ginjo Sake. Loved this one. Some nice balance of fresh but also good acidity, a clean, easy finish as to be expected from KID.

Daikon Salad (Shaved Japanese Radish, Gyoza Crisps, Ume Shiso Vinaigrette):

It had been almost a year since we last tried this Daikon Salad. On this most recent visit, there’s a much more balanced, deft hand at work with Chef Namba’s current Daikon Salad. It’s no longer excessively overdressed. It still feels like a touch too much Ume Vinaigrette, but otherwise, it was crisp and refreshing enough that it was a decent local starter to consider.

Chikurin - Otoro - Namazake Junmai Ginjo (Okayama, Japan):

We liked the previous Chikurin release, but this one is their new Spring seasonal bottle. Benig a Nama, it’s Unpasteurized, but this led to some very distinct, crazy flavors. It was yeasty, mushroomy, dank, wet woodsy, and there was an unpleasant alcoholic burn. Very different, and we appreciated the exploration, but definitely not a favorite of ours.

Tamanegi Tempura (Farmers Market Spring Onions, Truffled Creme Fraiche):

Their Tempura batter remains a weak spot. But this Tamanegi Tempura with Farmers Market Spring Onions was delicate and sweet from the Onion itself, only a touch greasy, but otherwise a good Sake partner this evening. We’d order it again.

Yaki Soba (Pan-Fried Noodles, Peads & Barnetts Pork Belly, Cabbage, Garlic Chives):

And thankfully, their Yaki Soba (Pan-Fried Noodles) on this evening were as good as the previous visit. This is definitely getting to be a solid, comfort food dish that Chef Namba and team have honed in on, executing it on a consistent, solid basis.

Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings, Karashi, Shoyu):

That’s how good Chef Namba’s new Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings) are. We’ve never ordered any dish from Tsubaki or Ototo 3 times in a row, but this marks the first time it’s ever happened, with good reason. It’s a relatively simple dish that won’t change the world, but it’s just simply delicious on various levels.

Kara-age (Japanese Fried Chicken, Curry Salt, Yuzu Daikon Pickles):

Sadly, their Kara-age (Japanese Fried Chicken) is only marginally better than their To-Go Bone-In Fried Chicken dish they had earlier this year. First, again, it’s fried way too dark. The Chicken itself tasted OK for the first couple bites, but then it started to grow heavy in its oiliness. The Curry Salt seemed kinda interesting at first, but that, too, grew heavy-handed and felt too excessive after more than 1 piece.

Senkin - Immortal Wing - Classic Muku - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Tochigi, Japan):

We finished with Senkin “Immortal Wing” Junmai Daiginjo Sake. Made with 100% Yamada Nishiki Rice, this was a dramatic improvement over the last seasonal Chikurin bottle. Easy drinking, not overly sweet, but with a nice complexity, and a dry, clean finish, this was a great way to finish off the evening.

Over this past year, we’re thankful for the fantastic Sake Lists at both Tsubaki and Ototo sister restaurants. They offer distinctly different Sake at each restaurant (even though they are next door to each other), probably to make each other stand out. Food-wise, Tsubaki remains a frustration of average to mediocre “elevated” dishes that we really don’t have an interest in seeking out again. Maybe the Sugar Snap Peas with Whipped Meiji Tofu, and a Chahan (Fried Rice).

On Ototo’s side, things get better. Perhaps it’s because it’s an emphasis on dressed-down, simpler Japanese comfort foods, but it’s allowed Chef Namba to pare down the unecessary ingredients and overseasoning from Tsubaki, and just deliver better dishes. From Ototo, we would definitely order their Ode to Mos Burger (A Japanese Chili Burger) again, their Tomato Salad (driven by excellent Farmers Market Tomatoes each time we’ve tried it), their Japanese Potato Salad is actually very good, and our 2nd favorite item on their menu (previously, we had none)!

But it’s their new Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings) with a bit of Karashi Japanese Hot Mustard that really shines here. So delicious! And we’d also order their Yaki Soba, Pan-Fried Noodles, a dish which we’ve thankfully seen transform from stodgy a year ago, to something that’s well-executed and a good version of Yaki Soba locally. The rest of the menu? Still has some misses and it still feels like it’s missing a couple expected, good offerings to really make it shine. But there’s food we’d want to return for at Ototo, which is a pleasant surprise.

Ultimately, though, you are here for Co-Owner and Sommelier Courtney Kaplan’s wonderful Sake recommendations. Her insight and knowledge really make your visit feel like an amazing, interesting Sake School, learning about something interesting and distinct with the world of Sake and its various breweries. For newbies and old Sake veterans, it’s worth a visit to see what new bottles Sommelier Kaplan has just brought in.

Tsubaki
1356 Allison Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Tel: (213) 900-4900

Tsubaki | A Japanese restaurant in Echo Park, Los Angeles

Ototo Sake Bar
(Next Door)
1360 Allison Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Tel: (213) 784-7930

OTOTO | ECHO PARK SAKE BAR

[chienrouge]

Cool spot thanks for sharing. Lots of good sake and snacks. Personally I’m not into the sandwiches and salad type dishes but seems that’s what the market wants. So many hits tho looks very solid for a nice long time of drinking and eating and having fun

[ipsedixit]

I feel like a cigarette after that review.

Maybe even a full cigar.

[BradFord]

Thanks for the rundown. Seems like a good place to drink and explore sake. The kitchen seems like it needs some ironing out but they’re willing to continually change things up to improve. Shame about the tempura and tonkatsu’s inconsistency. Sake pairing with various tempura could really be a winner.

I’ve had the Shichi Hon Yari Shizuku and think it goes great with otsumami at a sushi meal. The Kokuryu shizuku is another level. I have some friends who are big into Jikon and Aramasa, and I liked trying both brewers at izakaya / kappo Kirakutei in Tokyo but I can’t say which ones I’ve had. nice to see Jikon on menus here.

I was hoping to see a pairing like “Saba de Shu” sake with aji no namerou or nuta at these places. I forgot where but I had a shio koji-marinated lamb chop with apple soy and a dewa33 sake (to complement the apple notes). Sake pairing is a lot of fun and there’s lots to explore. Thanks for the thorough report on many sakes!

[Chowseeker1999]

@chienrouge

Cool spot thanks for sharing. Lots of good sake and snacks. Personally I’m not into the sandwiches and salad type dishes but seems that’s what the market wants

Hi @chienrouge ,

Thanks! Yah, what you mention is what we feel as well: That Ototo (and Tsubaki) just need a few more legit, good, comfort food / pub food type dishes (for Japanese Izakaya-style pub food, like a long Stewed Pork Belly, some consistently good Fried Pork Cutlet (Tonkatsu) or Deep Fried Baby Smelt Fish (less salty than Sardines) but so good with Sake & Beer, etc. But if nothing else, it’s a great spot to stop in for Sake exploration, and the bonus is you can order by the Cup, Carafe or full Bottle, so that’s nice. Thanks.

[Chowseeker1999]

@BradFord

Sake pairing with various tempura could really be a winner.

I’ve had the Shichi Hon Yari Shizuku and think it goes great with otsumami at a sushi meal. The Kokuryu shizuku is another level. I have some friends who are big into Jikon and Aramasa, and I liked trying both brewers at izakaya / kappo Kirakutei in Tokyo but I can’t say which ones I’ve had. nice to see Jikon on menus here.

I was hoping to see a pairing like “Saba de Shu” sake with aji no namerou or nuta at these places. I forgot where but I had a shio koji-marinated lamb chop with apple soy and a dewa33 sake (to complement the apple notes). Sake pairing is a lot of fun and there’s lots to explore.

Hi @BradFord ,

Thank you. I think it’s definitely a good place to just sit and explore Sake. Definitely ask to chat with Sommelier Courtney Kaplan, or feel free to explore the menu yourself (since you know Sake).

I definitely agree. It’s such a bummer because some great Tempura and consistent Tonkatsu would be great dishes to pair with the various Sake on the menus there.

Glad you liked the Shichi Hon Yari Shizuku, and yes! The Kokuryu Shizuku is so good, right? As if I needed another reason to return to Mori Sushi and Maru-san, that would be it (because he carries it regularly on his Sake menu).

That is awesome that you got to try a variety of those bottles at Kirakutei. How is the food there?

Your ideas on Sake pairings so fantastic. I can already tell just from thinking about the dishes and Sake.

Ultimately for Sake Pairing (with good food), I think Shibumi is definitely the way to go. They get more and more interesting Sake, and some of the high quality bottles (like Juyondai, or Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute’s “No. 1” (super Limited Edition bottle)), and their pairings with their Kappo Omakase menus are outstanding right now. Thanks!

[BradFord]

@Chowseeker1999

definitely a good place to just sit and explore Sake. Definitely ask to chat with Sommelier Courtney Kaplan

Sounds like a plan!

@Chowseeker1999

Kokuryu Shizuku is so good, right?

Really good, a reliable favorite to start a nice sushi meal, particularly early on with otsumami. So pure! Another shizuku I’ve liked is Stella, and it’s a bit less expensive and easier to find than Kokuryu’s Shizuku. When nigiri comes though, I’ll often switch to beer or a junmai/junmai ginjo (I sometimes find junmai daiginjo a bit too fruity as a match for nigiri, but it can work well with certain neta).

@Chowseeker1999

That is awesome that you got to try a variety of those bottles at Kirakutei. How is the food there?

(sorry, I don’t mean to hijack this thread about Tsubaki / Ototo with a rundown of another restaurant, so let me know if you want me to move these pics. But in the spirit of discussing sake - )

Kirakutei in Tokyo is a lot of fun, and it’s kind of a creative, free-wheeling kappo but bills itself more of an izakaya. The chef is affable with a good sense of humor, and he says it’s really a place to drink sake. He’s being modest, because the food is a lot of fun and the ingredients they serve aren’t your typical izakaya fare. Interesting use of slightly bitter herbs. Looking back at some pictures…

Started with a shark’s fin chawanmushi and then quickly moved onto a cod shirako somen with tosazu gelee, shiso buds, various herbs, kabosu citrus, and tonburi. A complex and really unique dish! With Jikon omachi 2019BY, I believe

A variety of chinmi - great with sake. Namako sea cucumber with yuzu. Komochi ika (pregnant squid). Mentaiko with kinome. Karasumi mochi. Fried ebiimo. Shiraae whipped tofu with kiwi! A monaka of ankimo with orange jam and kijoshu (not pictured).

I believe this came with Aramasa 2018 Viridian kimoto. Good cut from the lactic acid from the kimoto process, I believe, for good “oshi-aji” aftertaste that’ll stand up to all the funk from the chinmi.

Various other dishes, including a Matsuzaka-gyu sando and a handroll with two straight rows of bafun uni! Thick-cut but deeply-scored squid and madai sashimi with hijiki and karasumi.

A steamed nodoguro over sushi rice with various herbs like dill

Suppon (snapping turtle) dashi and shinjo meatball with young burdock and kinome.

A rice pot of takenoko (young bamboo), warabi (bracken root) stems, and aburaage. Then, it’s reloaded with karasumi, kinome, and yuzu.

More Jikon, Kid, etc.

I definitely recommend Kirakutei for a good time and lots of interesting sakes. It’s a creative kappo with a fun spirit and some nice surprises in the food.

And I did get to try this other Aramasa, Ama Neko, at a different kappo restaurant, Miyasaka.

While I love good acidity in wine, wine can sometimes clash with Japanese food. I find sake a bit more generous and easier to pair - it can really elevate the umami, not clash with it. In particular, owanmono is going to be hard to pair with wine. I’ve tried to pair wine with Japanese food to varying degrees of success, but I feel that sake is almost always going to be a better move. Some fried foods may be an exception. With good tempura, some mid white burgundy has worked very well for me, think Pernand-Vergelesses or a decent Chassagne, maybe certain Meursault (and you definitely don’t need to go grand cru). I had this conversation at Goryukubo as well - lots of clients want to drink wine with kappo / kaiseki, but sake is pretty much always going to pair better with washoku.

[chienrouge]

Well done !

[Chowseeker1999]

Hi @BradFord ,

First, thanks for sharing the thoughts and pics of Sake pairings from Kirakutei. That’s looking like some fantastic (and next level) stuff compared to what we have in LA. (BTW, which Kirakutei are you recommending? The one at 4-11-26 Minamiazabu?)

Clearly, what’s at Tsubaki and Ototo unfortunately don’t even come close to this (in fact there are no real pairings), but the Sake pairings we had at Shibumi with their new seasonal Kappo Omakase-type menu is probably LA’s best attempt (and quite well done).

I see you got to try the Jikon Junmai Ginjo Sake! (The Tokubetsu Junmai was the “highest level” Sake available at Tsubaki. The chinmi selection looks amazing from what you had. Komochi ika! And Takenoko, Warabi and Aburaage, and then Karasumi on top? That sounds so good! Thanks for the recommendation.

[BradFord]

@Chowseeker1999

(BTW, which Kirakutei are you recommending? The one at 4-11-26 Minamiazabu?)

No, that’s a different restaurant (looks like a yakiniku place). The Kirakutei I’m talking about used to be in Kugayama / Sugniami City but has sinced moved to a luxurious part of Ginza sometime in later 2020. It’s now called “Ginza Kirakutei.” It does look a little bit more high-end now, whereas the previous location felt more like an izakaya by the train tracks. Price and presentation wise, it looks more in line with some of the Ginza kappo / kaiseki places. Ginza pricing can really get up there, but at $150-250 / person, this isn’t too expensive for the area, considering the ingredients, too (Matsuzaka-gyu sando, a whole two rows of uni in a handroll which would probably be like an $80 bite here). Ginza Kirakutei is now at 6-chōme-5-13 8th Floor, Ginza Chuo City, Tokyo (same building as Audemars Piguet).

Gem by Moto in Ebisu is still a casual and good counter to try sake pairings.

[Chowseeker1999]

Hi @BradFord ,

Thanks for the info! Bookmarked!