Update 1:
It had been awhile since our last visit to Ototo (the casual Sake Bar / eatery) and Tsubaki (the more formal, fusion-Izakaya pub and sister restaurant next door). But we wanted to show support for the Japanese Sake industry and just enjoy some chilled, refreshing beverages to beat the heat. 
Once again, Co-Owner and Sake Sommelier Courtney Kaplan continues to shine (at both restaurants), curating one of the most interesting lists of Japanese Sake in the region. She finds unique, odd, interesting and tasty offerings without breaking the bank.
We ask Sommelier Kaplan for some Sake recommendations. On this visit, she starts us off with:
Gokyo - Junmai Nama Sake (Yamaguchi, Japan):
Clean, refreshing, with an almost citrus sharpness (in a good way). There’s a touch of alcoholic note (imbalance), but a nice starter otherwise.
Potato Salad (Pickled Takana, Cucumber, Soft Egg, Ikura):
Fans of Japanese Potato Salad take note: Chef Charles Namba has been improving his craft in the opening of his 2nd restaurant, Ototo. The focus on more casual, simpler Japanese cuisine has allowed him and the kitchen staff to get back to basics and over the last few visits (spanning 1 year), we’ve noticed an improvement to the point that there are now menu items that would be pretty solid (which is a big improvement).
Take this Potato Salad for instance: It’s balanced, not overly Mayo’d like many versions, not overly tart. This earlier iteration used Takana and a Hanjyuku Tamago (Soft-Boiled Egg) with Ikura (Salmon Roe). The Triple Egg combo is a bit excessive, but delicious. 
Tenmei - Aged 1 Year - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Fukushima, Japan):
This was a standout Sake recommendation from Sommelier Kaplan. Courtney mentions that this Sake was aged in its unpasteurized state for 1 year at sub-freezing temperatures(!), and then flash-pasteurized and sent out. Neat.
It was amazing. clean, refreshing. There’s a light sweetness, but things remain in balance, and it’s a perfect antidote to the hot Summer heat right now. 
Tomato Salad (The Garden Of… Blush Tomatoes, Ponzu Vinaigrette):
A great showcase of the local organic farm “The Garden Of…”, and their excellent Organic Blush Tomatoes. The Ponzu Vinaigrette worked well, however it was a touch overdressed.
Soma no Tengu - “Forest Spirit” - Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Usu-Nigori Sake (Shiga, Japan):
First, yes, this has to be one of the longer names for Japanese Sake just on the descriptor labeling alone! 
But this sounded really interesting based on it: It’s a Sake that’s Not Charcoal-Filtered (Muroka), to allow more aroma (according to the brewer); it’s Unpasteurized (Nama), which is supposed to give it more bright / lively aspects, and Undiluted (Genshu) for a richer flavor. And it’s Usu-Nigori (Slightly Cloudy) because they add in some of the finest part of the fermentation mash.
Unfortunately, all of that didn’t work well for this brewery and this bottle of Soma no Tengu: It had an immediate Alcohol burn (not good), then some light, fruity sweetness on the mid-palate, followed by more Alcohol notes, then with a semi-clean finish, but still leaving you with a distinct trailing Alcohol note. 
One of the very few Sake misses on Ototo and Tsubaki’s menu.
Ode to Mos Burger (Beef Patty, Housemade Japanese Chili, Heirloom Tomato, Yuzu Thousand Island, Shredded Iceberg, Sesame Bun):
We quite enjoyed the 1st time we tried Chef Namba’s Ode to Mos Burger, and thankfully this next time ordering it was as consistently good. While we’ve never tried a Chili Burger from Mos Burger in Japan, this version was just a legit, delicious Chili Burger that wasn’t as heavy as many versions around town (of a standard American Chili Burger). We’d definitely order this again.
Nagoya-Style Tebasaki (Chicken Wings, Sesame Tare Glaze):
Unfortunately, the Nagoya-style Tebasaki was a bit too heavy-handed. To be fair, we’ve had some Nagoya-inspired dishes over the years that are also very big and bold, but it does taste just too excessive in the Sesame Tare. It’s too salty-sweet (obviously good for drinking food, so maybe that’s the intention, but it does feel like it would obliterate some of the lighter Sake in pairing).
Takachiyo 59 - Kame No O - Chapter Nine - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):
One of the most interesting exploration of Sake by a brewer in Japan, Sommelier Kaplan previously introduced to us the Takachiyo 59 series of Sake with Chapter One and Chapter Two. Essentially the brewery will make each bottle in the exact same way, however, for each “Chapter” (bottle release), they use a different Rice for the basis. This allows you to explore and see the very specific impact that Rice has on the Sake. Very cool!
Ototo just got in Chapter Nine again, which uses 100% Kame No O Rice. This was dramatically different from Chapter One and Chapter Two that we had previously. It was shocking, but also very enlightening. This Kame No O had an earthiness, but also a sharp, distinct quality.
Nasu Tempura (Japanese Eggplant, Shaved Onion, Sweet Soy):
We adore a good Nasu (Eggplant) Tempura. This version was a bit too greasy / oily, the batter didn’t hold up well. It was fine for a local neighborhood spot, but when compared to a Tempura Specialist like Inaba, there’s no comparison.
Pork Belly Yakisoba (Pan-Fried Noodles, Bean Sprouts, Aonori, Beni Shoga):
Their Yakisoba was passable. Too oily and greasy, it was fine for a simple local spot, but again, nothing to write home about unfortunately. (Note this dish changes over time (more below).)
Kikuhime - Yamahai Ginjo Genshu Origarami Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):
I’ve enjoyed Kikuhime (“Chrysanthemum Princess”) brewery previously, so it was great to see this new bottling. Another great recommendation from Sommelier Kaplan, this Kikuhime is a Yamahai style (using naturally occurring lactic bacteria (instead of commercial lactic acid)), and we learned the Origarami moniker denotes a “hazy” style of Sake, where a small amount of the Rice particulate is left in the bottle. This was a bit wild, fragrant, with quite a few layers of taste. Enjoyable.
Another Visit:
On a subsequent visit over the past year, we started with…
Chokaisan - Junmai Daiginjo Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Akita, Japan):
We normally lean more towards Junmai Daiginjo Sake (the highest level of Rice polishing), but to see one that’s also Muroka (No Charcoal Filtration), Nama (Unpasteurized) and Genshu (Undiluted) is much rarer. This sounded fun.
The nose and front palate on this was mainly acetone. There was some alcoholic burn, but beyond that there were some refined notes with a decent finish.
Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns (Soy, Wasabi):
These were, indeed, Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, freshly dispatched, and plump, firm, but supple, creamy and delicious. The pairing worked pretty well actually, but by itself, the Chokaisan isn’t something we’d order again.
Takachiyo 59 - Chapter Two - Aiyama - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):
On this visit, they just restocked the Takachiyo 59, Chapter Two bottle, exploring 100% Aiyama Rice, which was our favorite of the series. Taking a sip, it tasted different from what I remembered (which was about 2 years earlier): This was musty, with wet forest, dank notes, but a very clean finish. It was interesting, different, but enjoyable. We remembered this being less heavy in the past, but perhaps it was just nostalgia, or over the past few years this Chapter Two has changed slightly from bottling to bottling.
Kyuru Sunomono (Vinegared Cucumbers, Avocado, Dungeness Crab):
This was fine.
Tamagawa - Ice Breaker - Nama Junmai Ginjo Sake (Kyoto, Japan):
I’ve heard a lot about Tamagawa’s “Ice Breaker” Sake and have been eager to try it. Plus, just look at the label! Penguins.
This was refreshing, sweet, floral, zesty, bold! Later on there are almost coffee chocolatey notes. 
A nice way to open the meal.
Radicchio Salad (Fennel, Blush Tomatoes, Avocado, Parmesan, Soy Vinaigrette):
I appreciate the Vegetable offerings that Chef Namba and team have been keeping on the menu at Ototo and Tsubaki. While not commonly found in Japan, this is a great dish reflecting California that worked here. I loved the fresh, Farmers Market Radicchio, the inherent bitterness, crispness, balanced by the sweet umami Blush Tomatoes, creamy Avocado and the Soy Vinaigrette.
Gindara Tempura (Black Cod Tempura, Tentsuyu Oroshi):
This was much better than the previous Eggplant Tempura (which was too oily). The batter held up better here.
Yaki Onigiri (Grilled Rice Balls):
Yaki Onigiri are always a nice way to wrap up a meal. These are pretty solid, with a nice crunch, but it does feel like it lacks the smokiness of a great Binchotan Grilled version. Also, it’s a bit disconcerting to hear our server say that they use Butter(!) in the Onigiri. Just unnecessary.
Nikuman (Housemade Steamed Pork Buns, Shoyu, Karashi Hot Mustard):
There is definitely a lack of Housemade Nikuman (Steamed Pork Buns) in Southern California, so when we see it offered on a menu, it’s a must-order. Unfortunately, Ototo’s new Nikuman are pretty mediocre. 
The issue is the Steamed Bun exterior: It’s just too stodgy. The inside Marinated Ground Pork is fine, but a bit one note. Japanese Bakery Cream Pan’s Nikuman is far superior (fluffy, moist, and a well-balanced filling). (@ipsedixit @BradFord and all.)
Another Visit:
On this visit, Sommelier Kaplan had just got in a rare Shizuku bottle, so we had to give that a try!
Shichi Hon Yari - “The Seven Spearsmen” - Shizuku Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Shiga, Japan):
Ever since we tried the stunning Kokuryu (Black Dragon) Shizuku Sake at Mori Sushi, we’ve been on a hunt to try more Shizuku (Unpressed or “Gravity Pressed”) Sake when possible.
While not a exquisite as the Kokuryu (Black Dragon), this Shichi Hon Yari (The Seven Spearsmen) Shizuku was delicate, lightly floral, clean, smooth, and with a lingering, dry, easy finish. Lovely. 
(@BradFord @A5KOBE @Sgee and all)
Hiramasa Sashimi (Yellowtail Amberjack, Fresh Wasabi, Shoyu):
This was fine. Meaty, tender, a nice balance of fat and lean, but lacking that bit to elevate it to top tier Sashimi (sourcing, knife skills, etc.) (see Aburiya Raku back in the day for stunning Sashimi preparation).
Ebi Fry (Panko-Fried New Caledonian Blue Prawns, Yuzu Tartar Sauce, Cured Ikura, Kushi Katsu Sauce):
The Ebi Fry with Panko-Fried Caledonian Blue Prawns is another passable dish. It’s not bad, the Fried Prawns taste fresh, but the frying technique and execution just tastes OK. It’s soaked up too much oil, it’s not crispy enough, but for the neighborhood, this is probably the best you’re going to get.
KID - Hiyaoroshi - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Wakayama, Japan):
We’re big fans of Heiwa Shuzou’s KID Sake. Most of their bottlings we’ve tried have been fresh, bright and tasty. This seasonal bottle of KID is a Hiyaoroshi, celebrating the Autumn season. Only once pasteurized, and then matured for a few seasons, KID’s version of Hiyaoroshi was round and rich, full of flavor. Definitely a tasty Sake, but between the 2 most recent Hiyaoroshi Sake we’ve had, we liked the Shichida Hiyaoroshi just a touch more. Still, we’d be glad to drink either.
Miyazaki A5 Wagyu Niku Jaga (Japanese-style “Meat & Potatoes,” Shirataki Noodles, Soy Dashi Broth):
This sounded luxurious and amazing, because a legit Niku Jaga is one of our favorite dishes in Japan. With Ototo trying a version with Grade A5 Wagyu Beef from Miyazaki, Japan, it sounded like a win-win. Sadly, this was undermined by the star ingredient: If this was Grade A5 Wagyu Beef, then the team needs to inquire into the sourcing because the Beef slices we got in this bowl were stringy, full of gristle. 
I’ve never had real Grade A5 Wagyu with this much gristle before. So there was some rich fattiness, but then you got a mouthful of stringy gristle mixed in, and had to stop and discreetly spit out the unchewable gristle before taking another bite.
The actual Niku Jaga flavors were fine, but a bit too sweet as well, reminding us more of a Sukiyaki than more home-style Niku Jaga. It’s examples like this, that still show the weakness at Tsubaki and Ototo.
Tonkatsu (Panko-Fried Peads & Barnetts Pork Loin, Sesame Tonkatsu Sauce):
This turned out to be a solid version of Tonkatsu (Deep Fried Pork Cutlet). The Pork Loin was moist and meaty, Peads and Barnetts has usually delivered a nice porcine flavor in their various Pork cuts. This was another noteworthy dish to order at Ototo as their menu develops.
Tae no Hana - Sublime Beauty - Arabashiri Kimoto Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Mie, Japan):
This Tae no Hana Sake had a nuttiness, but also a pleasant earthiness, and an overall robust mouthfeel.
Tsubaki - Another Visit:
On this visit, we stopped into Tsubaki, the more “formal” (still casual, but more formal than Ototo) sister restaurant to Ototo next door. The menu is still from Chef Charles Namba and Sommelier Courtney Kaplan brings together the Sake menu at both places.
Jikon - Tokubetsu Junmai Sake (Mie, Japan):
The nose on this was a bit of a surprise: Strawberries, fruitiness, a light funk. Taking a sip: Sweet, smooth, vibrant, but an unpleasant note of Rubbing Alcohol.
Kanpachi Sashimi (Great Amberjack):
A touch too soft, and not as bright as the best Kanpachi offerings we’ve had around the city.
Green Beans, Sesame Dressing Salad:
Oshinko - Assorted Japanese Pickles of Yuzu Asian Pear, Sesame Cucumber, Ume Daikon:
The Oshinko course is another good example of the challenges of the food at Tsubaki: It’s tastes like it’s a fusion / reinvention of the dish but in a way that’s off-balance. Each of the Pickles were too extreme. The Yuzu Asian Pear pickled were too tart and sweet, the Sesame Cucumber was lip smacking and the Ume Daikon was also too much.
Kojima Sohonten - Untitled - Cedar Barrel Aged Sake (Yamagata, Japan):
This was a cool, unique bottle that Sommelier Kaplan recommended from Kojima Sohonten. It’s “Untitled” and is a Cedar Barrel Aged Sake(!). The initial smell is light and delicately sweet. There’s definitely Cedar wood notes as well. The taste is super light, delicate, smooth, clean with a long trailing finish. Definitely interesting.
Atsu-Age Kushiyaki (Thick Cut, Fried Meiji Tofu Skewer, Scallions, Katsuobushi, Myoga Ginger):
I love a good Atsu-Age offering. I appreciate that they source from local Tofu makers Meiji, but the execution is once again underwhelming. It’s fine, nothing standout, a bit chewy and thick and it tastes like the sum of its parts.
BORN - Muroka Nama Genshu - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):
BORN is another enjoyable lineup that we enjoy (from Gold, to Nihon no Tsubasa and more). On this evening, Tsubaki had their Muroka Nama Genshu Sake in stock. There’s a very delicate, tame nose. Then after a sip, you get rich, robust, rough flavors. It’s a bit uneven though, but then again, this is a Muroka Nama Genshu, so you’re prepared for a more dynamic offering. It has a good, clean finish.
Soriresu (Chicken Oysters):
One of the weakest links in Tsubaki’s menu has always been their mediocre Yakitori (Grilled Chicken Skewers). Compared to the various Yakitori offerings around the city, and Tsubaki’s skewers have always been average at best. It had been since before the pandemic but we wanted to see if there was any improvement, so we ordered a few.
The Soriresu (Chicken Oysters) should be a standout skewer based on the succulent bit of Oyster-shaped meat from the Chicken Thigh. Taking a bite:
Still as average as before. There’s no finesse, no smoke that you’d get from a solid version grilled over Binchotan (Japanese White Charcoal) at other spots locally (this isn’t even comparing to Japan). It’s overly salty and just not good. (@BradFord @ipsedixit and all.)
Sunagimo - Chicken Gizzards:
This was fine. Again, no smoke, tasting mainly of cooked-through, salty Chicken Gizzards over a gas flame perhaps.
Nankotsu (Chicken Cartilage) & Bonchiri (Chicken Tail):
Perhaps part of the challenge / frustration is that all of the Yakitori are over-seasoned, perhaps to compensate for the fact that they don’t offer any traditional Shichimi Togarashi (7 Spice Condiment) nor Sansho Pepper condiment that’s usually found at many local Yakitori-ya. And it’s fine if their Shio (Salt) or Tare (Soy Sauce-based Sauce) seasonings were balanced, but they aren’t. It just tastes excessive, a bit clumsy and with no smoke and a lack of legit Yakitori execution, you get skewers like this. Made for the local hamster crowd and nothing more.
Kani Chahan (Garlic Fried Rice with Dungeness Crab):
A word of warning that they usually use a bunch of Butter in their Fried Rice offerings. If this were French cuisine, sure, you expect a ton of Butter in various dishes, but for Japanese Fried Rice? No. It’s unnecessary and is distracting. So we asked for them to make it without it on this visit. This was fine. It lacks any real Breath of the Work, but it’s a decent version and something safe to order if you need some food with the great Sake offerings.
Akitabare - Suirakuten - Daiginjo Sake (Akita, Japan):
Always an enjoyable Sake, it had been a few years since we last had this Akitare. It was balanced, sweet, round and just pleasurable to drink. It had a smooth, clean, crisp finish. Just a solid Daiginjo Sake if you’re looking for something in this vein.
Ototo - Lunch - Another Visit:
In a partial return to pre-COVID-19 times, Ototo started up Lunch offerings again (although To-Go Only), with 2 interesting-sounding offerings that I have a soft spot for.
Ototo Fried Chicken:
We’re always on the lookout for great Fried Chicken, so when Ototo announced they were going to have a Fried Chicken Lunch Special, it was off to give it a try.
We placed our order for a specific time and showed up 5 minutes early. Even showing up early, it looks like our Fried Chicken was already ready and packaged (which is disastrous for Fried Chicken, since it “steams” in the To-Go packaging).
Thankfully it looks like it was only steaming for a few minutes because the Chicken was still slightly crunchy. Unfortunately, that was the only good thing. It was way too dark (see pics above), looking like it was fried at the wrong temperature and/or the frying oil was not clean / not a fresh batch.
Taking a bite: Slightly crunchy, too salty, and with a slight (just a hint) of burnt backnotes. The search continues. (@ipsedixit @paranoidgarliclover and all.)
Ototo Fish Sandwich:
In a tribute to the Golden Arches’ Filet-O-Fish Sandwich, here Ototo makes their version, but with higher quality ingredients. Thankfully the Ototo Fish Sandwich was much better than their Fried Chicken. The Sesame Seed Bun was pillowy and soft, but held together well (a huge improvement from McDonald’s version (one would hope!)). The Fried Fish was barely crisped, another disadvantage to getting items To-Go (but that was the only option), but it tasted of a high quality Fried Rockfish, flaky and moist. The Yuzu Tartar Sauce worked here with a hint of citrus lightening up each bite.
One can only hope they make this for Dinner, or Dine-In Lunch sometime, as eating it freshly fried out of the kitchen should be very good at that point. Definitely one of the better items from Ototo.
Ototo - Dinner - Another Visit:
Daikon Salad (Shaved Daikon, Market Radish, Gyoza Crisps, Ume Shiso Vinaigrette):
I appreciate Chef Namba and team trying different types of dressings for their veggie offerings. I love Ume and I love Shiso, but this Ume Shiso Vinaigrete on their Daikon Salad (for this visit a few months back) was excessively tart and overpowered the Daikon and Radish. That’s all you could taste.
Potato Salad (Whole Grain Mustard, Iburi Gakko, Kurobuta Pork Sausage):
Their Potato Salad was one of the better menu options on Ototo’s menu. On this visit, Chef Namba and team mix it up with using Iburi Gakko (Smoked, Pickled Daikon) and throwing in a Kurobuta Pork Sausage. The Potato Salad itself was still tasty, the Iburi Gakko lent a light smoky, crunchy quality (nice), but the Kurobuta Pork Sausage thrown on top was excessively salty and really didn’t need to be there.
Gasanryu - Gokugetsu - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Yamagata, Japan):
I’ve heard good things about Gasanryu. This Junmai Daiginjo had flavors of Berries, a bit prickly and zesty! But also with a nice florality and quite smooth. Tasty.
Crispy Tofu (Fried Silken Tofu, Housemade Sichuan Peppercorn Chili Oil):
On this occasion, Chef Namba was not in the kitchen, and this Crispy Tofu was sadly anything but crispy. It was drowning in their Sichuan Peppercorn Chili Oil, which turned the Tofu soggy, and it made each bite excessively salty and spicy.
Tonkatsu (Panko Fried Peads & Barnetts Pork Loin Cutlet, Sesame Tonkatsu Sauce, Hot Mustard, Snowy Cabbage):
Their Tonkatsu (Fried Pork Cutlet) on this visit was thankfully still solid. It won’t dethrone Kagura, but for something to pair with the excellent Sake menu, this is a safe bet.
Otokoyama - Shiboritate - Tokubetsu Junmai Nama Genshu Sake (Hokkaido, Japan):
Sake fans will recognize the name Otokoyama. It’s one of the bigger names seen on many menus locally. But this seasonal release for the Spring is rarer, and it’s got a polar bear on the label. This was very refreshing, clean, not as complex as we were thinking, but definitely a nice one to enjoy at this time of year.
Tebasaki (Nagoya-style Chicken Wings, Sesame Tare):
We were hoping for an improvement with their Tebasaki Chicken Wings. Unfortunately, it’s the same as before. Their Sesame Tare Sauce is just too much. It’s too salty, too sweet, and I definitely understand the idea for Izakaya offerings to encourage / pair with drinks, and even “pub food” in general, but the Sauce was simply excessive to the point that we’d need to gulp down lots of Sake or a big mouthful of Rice to balance it out.
Jikon - Tokubetsu Junmai Sake (Mie, Japan):
While the first time we had Jikon wasn’t very balanced, we were encouraged to give it another try. The Jikon Tokubetsu Junmai on this visit was much better! I’m not sure if it was a bad bottle last time (supply chain issues and all that), but on this visit, the Jikon was beautifully sweet, balanced with a pleasing round mouthfeel and a clean finish. Very good!
Tsubaki - Another Visit:
With the end of Spring, to celebrate the various Spring seasonal offerings, we stopped by Tsubaki for another visit a few months later.
KID - Haru no Kunpu (“Spring Breeze”) - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Wakayama, Japan):
KID continues to deliver some fun, refreshing offerings. Their Spring seasonal release this year is Haru no Kunpu “Spring Breeze”, and it was indeed evoking the Spring. Gentle floral notes, crisp, refreshing, excellent finish, a great starter.
Oshinko - Assorted Japanese Pickles of Yuzu Asian Pear, Sesame Cucumber, Ume Daikon:
Sadly, their Oshinko (Assorted Japanese Pickles) were still as unbalanced as previous visits. It’s passable, but too tart, too big in its flavors and it throws off your palate.
Saya Endo - Two Peas in a Pod (Sugar Snap Peas, Whipped Meiji Tofu, Ponzu Vinaigrette, Crispy Shallot, Sobacha):
This was refreshing and a good dish. The local farmers market Sugar Snap Peas were so crisp, fresh and super bright. The pairing with Whipped Meiji Tofu added a delicate creaminess, and the Crispy Shallots gave it just a touch of that fun umami. This is the type of stuff you were hoping Tsubaki could’ve delivered, but it’s just few and far inbetween.
Chawanmushi (Steamed Egg Custard, Dungeness Crab):
The Steamed Egg itself was light and custardy, but the texture was off (air bubbles throughout). The Dungeness Crab was inherently sweet and a good pairing. Not bad, but if they can master Chawanmushi making, this would be a noteworthy dish to order here.
Kinoko Tempura (Market Mushrooms, Tentsuyu Dipping Sauce, Grated Daikon, Yuzu Shichimi):
The frying for the Tempura on this visit to Tsubaki was much improved. The Mushroom Tempura was actually not greasy for once. This was a solid dish and something we’d actually order again.
Nankotsu (Chicken Cartilage):
In the hope against hope that their Yakitori skills improved, we ordered 2 skewers to test it out. Sadly, it’s the same as before. This is a passable, grilled skewer of Chicken Breast Meat with the Yagen (Chicken Breast Cartilage) intact. It’s actually got too much Chicken Breast Meat, so you’re not really eating Yagen as you are “Chicken Breast Skewer with a bit of Cartilage”. It lacked any smoke, the Tare Sauce was excessive.
Soriresu (Chicken Oysters):
The Soriresu (Chicken Oysters) Skewer was even worse, and the same as the previous 3 times we’ve tried it. Just excessively salty, unbalanced, and lacking any smoke or subtlety. At $12 per order, this also makes it that much worse. Avoid.
Rihaku - Origin of Purity - Junmai Ginjo Genshu Nama Sake (Shimane, Japan):
Another Spring Sake that Sommelier Kaplan imported in, the Rihaku “Origin of Purity” was a Nama (Unpasteurized) Sake that was fruity sweet, clean and had the lightness to celebrate Spring.
Kani Chahan (Garlic Fried Rice with Dungeness Crab):
No Breath of the Wok, but their Kani Chahan is thankfully consistently OK (make sure to ask them to omit the unnecessary Butter).
Ototo - Dinner - Another Visit:
While we had just visited Tsubaki recently, there are certain events that require Sake fans to make a return to a place, even if it’s only to drink the Sake. This was one of those times.
Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute - Natsu no Namazake (Ishikawa, Japan):
It turns out Sommelier Kaplan had just gotten in the rare Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute’s new Summer seasonal offering: Natsu no Namazake! For those that don’t know, Noguchi Naohiko is considered by many to be the “Godfather of Sake,” very well respected. We were blown away by his Honjozo offering awhile back, and there were very few bottles after that (jumping up excessively in price).
This Summer Sake was stunning! Zesty, like a party in your mouth. So many layers, complex, fun, lively. Another very good bottling from the Sake Institute and I can see why Noguchi-san is so respected (and this is a new release after he came back out of retirement)! (@BradFord @ipsedixit @A5KOBE and all.)
(NEW) Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings, Mustard, Shoyu):
We had very low hopes on this new dish that was recently added to Ototo’s menu. First, having Chef Namba attempt a Japanese-American interpretation of a Chinese Shumai dish sounded risky; especially with the uneven menu offerings at both restaurants (but moreso at Tsubaki). Taking a bite:
Seriously. These were flat-out delicious!
Plump, moist, delicately seasoned Marinated Ground Pork. These weren’t anything like a traditional Hong Kong / Cantonese Dim Sum Shumai, but we actually liked these much better than most Shumai around town. These just hit that perfect palate pleasing spectrum for us. A bit of Karashi (Japanese Mustard) just made it that much more fun and worked as well.
The first, simply delicious, great offering on either menu that we’d order again and again. Finally. (@ipsedixit @BradFord @paranoidgarliclover @A5KOBE @chienrouge and all.)
Shichida - Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake (Saga, Japan):
And the 2nd reason for our visit today (after the Noguchi Naohiko Institute Summer release), Sommelier Kaplan just got in this year’s Shichida - Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo Sake. For those that may not know, one of the most unique seasonal Sake offerings is Shichida’s Spring bottle release, their Muroka (Non-Charcoal Filtered) Nama (Unpasteurized) Genshu (Undiluted), which all adds up to huge flavors. It’s naturally effervescent, and that light fizziness adds to the fun.
And this 2022 Spring release is just as fun as last year’s bottle. It’s wild, fizzy, umami, sweetness, but not overly sweet, and beyond the complexity, it’s just a clean finish. Incredible! (@BradFord @A5KOBE and all)
Tonkatsu (Panko Fried Peads & Barnetts Pork Loin Cutlet, Sesame Tonkatsu Sauce):
And unfortunately on this visit with so many great things going on, their Tonkatsu was only OK (the previous 2 times were better). This was a touch overcooked (see pic above), leading to a dryish, meaty, chewy Tonkatsu. Like a Pork Chop overcooked. The breading also slipped off on a few pieces.
Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute - Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):
In a unique tasting chance, besides trying the Godfather of Sake’s new Summer Namazake release this evening, Sommelier Kaplan also got in Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute’s Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu! Also very rarely seen locally, this was a lot of fun to try in the same evening. Unlike the Summer release, this was on the earthier side. Still wild, a bit all over the place (in a good way), I think in the end, I preferred his OG Honjozo and the Natsu Namazake over this one, but we’re glad to have tried it. Very interesting.
Tedorigawa - Kinka - Daiginjo Nama Sake (Ishikawa, Japan):
One of the great subsequent losses after Aburiya Raku closed during the pandemic, was the loss of a consistent source of Tedorigawa “Kinka” Sake. One of my all-time favorites for just a fairly priced, absolutely delicious Sake, Raku was the primary source locally for a restaurant carrying this bottle and pairing it with great food.
So it was really nice to see Sommelier Kaplan finally add this to the menu on this visit (hopefully it stays). Taking a sip:
Incredibly clean, lightly fruity, delicately fragrant, but also a crisp, creamy, smooth fantastic finish. A stunner still, and a reason it’s so beloved.
Furosen Wataribune - Yamahai Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu Sake (Shiga, Japan):
Wow. A fantastic finishing Sake for the evening from Sommelier Courtney. This Furosen bottle was super flavorful, sweet Sugar notes, lactic acid, some tang, aromatic, and with a clean finish!
This was one of the greatest Sake tasting evenings we’ve had in a long time.
Ototo - Another Visit:
On a recent visit, we once again deferred to Sommelier Kaplan for a variety of recommendations. We started with:
Matsu no Tsukasa - Arabashiri 2021 - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Shiga, Japan):
This was a pleasant surprise. First debuting at Shibumi recently, we hadn’t seen Matsu no Tsukasa released anywhere else locally. But on this visit a month later, we were glad to see Ototo get this brewery’s bottles in stock as well.
This Arabashiri release is rather uncommon, representing the “first cut” or “initial rough run” of Sake. This was rich, earthy, sweet, round, with a clean, long finish. Very good!
Yaki Soba (Pan-Fried Noodles, Peads & Barnetts Pork Belly, Cabbage, Garlic Chives):
The kitchen is definitely improving over time. On one of our most recent visits (now a year since our first entry in this post), the Yaki Soba was much better in execution than before. Chef Namba was in the kitchen on this evening, and the Yaki Soba wasn’t greasy, nicely pan-fried, it was soft, but with enough texture and toothsome qualities, and it wasn’t overly seasoned. It was just a solid Yaki Soba dish that we’d be glad to order again. Well done.
Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings, Karashi, Shoyu):
Wanting to make sure our last time trying this new dish wasn’t a fluke, on this 2nd time trying it, it was thankfully as delicious as our 1st time! Juicy, moist, tender Marinated Ground Pork filling, this Buta Shumai was legit delicious, especially with a bit of the Karashi Japanese Hot Mustard.
Matsu no Tsukasa - Raku - Shiboritate Nama 2021 - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Shiga, Japan):
And the Matsu no Tsukasa bottle that captured my attention last month at Shibumi, their Raku bottling that is a Shiboritate Nama, also showed up here at Ototo this evening! Taking a sip:
This was also quite round, full-flavored, sweet, but not as sweet as the Arabashiri, with orchard fruits, minerality and a dry, clean finish. Amazing!
Minato - “Harbor” - Yamahai Nama Genshu Sake (Akita, Japan):
And we finished off this evening with a final rec from Sommelier Kaplan. Besides the distinct, metal cannister of a bottle, this Minato “Harbor” Sake was a monster Sake. It was heavy. At 21% ABV (42 Proof), that’s far above many Sake offerings, and it felt like you were punched by big flavor, dusty woods, mushroom, earthiness, and again, very heavy. This is not a Sake you drink straight up by itself. We needed some greasy food to balance this out.
Ototo - Latest Visit:
And finally on our most recent visit last week, we rounded this out with a few more interesting Sake from Sommelier Kaplan, not only for the tastiness of chilled, cool Sake, but to beat the Summer heat!
Potato Salad (Weiser Magic Myrna Potatoes, Celery, Anchovy, Sorrel, Whole Grain Mustard, Fried Capers):
OK, this latest iteration of Chef Namba’s Japanese Potato Salad is probably his best one yet. I appreciate the slight tweaking, each time to give it a subtle variation. I liked the Iburi Gakko twist last time, but this visit had a change to using one of the best local farmers - Weiser Family Farms - famous for their excellent Potatoes (so many varieties!), and the Celery, Anchovy, Sorrel was just excellent! This is one of the better Japanese Potato Salads we have locally that I’ve tried in a longtime.
This is noteworthy in that this marks the 2nd solid, tasty dish that we’d order again and want to eat at Ototo.
KID - Natsu no Shippu (“Summer’s Strong Wind”) - Junmai Ginjo Sake (Wakayama, Japan):
And in time for Summer, Sommelier Kaplan starts us off with an excellent new seasonal Summer release from KID, their Natsu no Shippu (“Summer’s Strong Wind”), a Junmai Ginjo Sake. Loved this one. Some nice balance of fresh but also good acidity, a clean, easy finish as to be expected from KID.
Daikon Salad (Shaved Japanese Radish, Gyoza Crisps, Ume Shiso Vinaigrette):
It had been almost a year since we last tried this Daikon Salad. On this most recent visit, there’s a much more balanced, deft hand at work with Chef Namba’s current Daikon Salad. It’s no longer excessively overdressed. It still feels like a touch too much Ume Vinaigrette, but otherwise, it was crisp and refreshing enough that it was a decent local starter to consider.
Chikurin - Otoro - Namazake Junmai Ginjo (Okayama, Japan):
We liked the previous Chikurin release, but this one is their new Spring seasonal bottle. Benig a Nama, it’s Unpasteurized, but this led to some very distinct, crazy flavors. It was yeasty, mushroomy, dank, wet woodsy, and there was an unpleasant alcoholic burn. Very different, and we appreciated the exploration, but definitely not a favorite of ours.
Tamanegi Tempura (Farmers Market Spring Onions, Truffled Creme Fraiche):
Their Tempura batter remains a weak spot. But this Tamanegi Tempura with Farmers Market Spring Onions was delicate and sweet from the Onion itself, only a touch greasy, but otherwise a good Sake partner this evening. We’d order it again.
Yaki Soba (Pan-Fried Noodles, Peads & Barnetts Pork Belly, Cabbage, Garlic Chives):
And thankfully, their Yaki Soba (Pan-Fried Noodles) on this evening were as good as the previous visit. This is definitely getting to be a solid, comfort food dish that Chef Namba and team have honed in on, executing it on a consistent, solid basis.
Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings, Karashi, Shoyu):
That’s how good Chef Namba’s new Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings) are. We’ve never ordered any dish from Tsubaki or Ototo 3 times in a row, but this marks the first time it’s ever happened, with good reason. It’s a relatively simple dish that won’t change the world, but it’s just simply delicious on various levels.
Kara-age (Japanese Fried Chicken, Curry Salt, Yuzu Daikon Pickles):
Sadly, their Kara-age (Japanese Fried Chicken) is only marginally better than their To-Go Bone-In Fried Chicken dish they had earlier this year. First, again, it’s fried way too dark. The Chicken itself tasted OK for the first couple bites, but then it started to grow heavy in its oiliness. The Curry Salt seemed kinda interesting at first, but that, too, grew heavy-handed and felt too excessive after more than 1 piece.
Senkin - Immortal Wing - Classic Muku - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Tochigi, Japan):
We finished with Senkin “Immortal Wing” Junmai Daiginjo Sake. Made with 100% Yamada Nishiki Rice, this was a dramatic improvement over the last seasonal Chikurin bottle. Easy drinking, not overly sweet, but with a nice complexity, and a dry, clean finish, this was a great way to finish off the evening.
Over this past year, we’re thankful for the fantastic Sake Lists at both Tsubaki and Ototo sister restaurants. They offer distinctly different Sake at each restaurant (even though they are next door to each other), probably to make each other stand out. Food-wise, Tsubaki remains a frustration of average to mediocre “elevated” dishes that we really don’t have an interest in seeking out again. Maybe the Sugar Snap Peas with Whipped Meiji Tofu, and a Chahan (Fried Rice).
On Ototo’s side, things get better. Perhaps it’s because it’s an emphasis on dressed-down, simpler Japanese comfort foods, but it’s allowed Chef Namba to pare down the unecessary ingredients and overseasoning from Tsubaki, and just deliver better dishes. From Ototo, we would definitely order their Ode to Mos Burger (A Japanese Chili Burger) again, their Tomato Salad (driven by excellent Farmers Market Tomatoes each time we’ve tried it), their Japanese Potato Salad is actually very good, and our 2nd favorite item on their menu (previously, we had none)!
But it’s their new Buta Shumai (Steamed Pork Dumplings) with a bit of Karashi Japanese Hot Mustard that really shines here. So delicious! And we’d also order their Yaki Soba, Pan-Fried Noodles, a dish which we’ve thankfully seen transform from stodgy a year ago, to something that’s well-executed and a good version of Yaki Soba locally. The rest of the menu? Still has some misses and it still feels like it’s missing a couple expected, good offerings to really make it shine. But there’s food we’d want to return for at Ototo, which is a pleasant surprise.
Ultimately, though, you are here for Co-Owner and Sommelier Courtney Kaplan’s wonderful Sake recommendations. Her insight and knowledge really make your visit feel like an amazing, interesting Sake School, learning about something interesting and distinct with the world of Sake and its various breweries. For newbies and old Sake veterans, it’s worth a visit to see what new bottles Sommelier Kaplan has just brought in.
Tsubaki
1356 Allison Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Tel: (213) 900-4900
Ototo Sake Bar
(Next Door)
1360 Allison Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Tel: (213) 784-7930
