The great NY Times columnist, Frank Bruni, who was formerly its restaurant critic, is departing the paper this week. In his online newsletter, he recalled some of the columns that were of personal import to him, and also noted his appreciation of other writers, one of whom he credits with cleverly anthropomorphizing her baking results: cookies “puffed like politicians”, e.g. The phrase comes from this wonderful piece about recreating family recipes. It’s beautifully written, with dishes that are alternately tempting and repellent. Personally, I’d like to translate and try the oat “cake”.
Cooking Backwards, by Pamela Petro