The idea of of concentric induction rings to even the resulting heat sounds simple, but it’s not. This is mostly a safety and detector issue. Assuming you design the coils so they do not interfere with each other or excite the pan beyond its ability to stay in shape and hold together, you definitely do not want an active coil operating outside the circumference of any given pan.
Have you tried setting Power Boil with progressively smaller pans? Below a certain size I expect you won’t be able to even use that mode. You may be able to spoof it into working with multiple pans, though, depending on where the detectors are located.
I actually noticed the outer area of the large hob didn’t activate for my Lagostina 28cm frypan today on power boil, just the small donut of the inner 18cm. It’s disc is a bit shy of 22cm in the exterior bottom.
My Zwilling Prime disc saute with 23,5cm bottom worked.
My Falk 24 saute has worked, though I could see the power boil was not so optimal anymore on it, lacking in power.
According to the manual the larger wattages from the dual hob are for bottoms 245mm upwards.
Also the Falk 24cm frypan seemed to “work” on power boil, but needed to be very well centered, it would probably not work in practise for cooking there. I would use the 24cm frypan on the smaller hobs anyway, its fine there. The 24cm saute I would rather use on the larger one in cooking if it still works in practise there, at least it clearly did well for reheating soup with bubbling around the edges.
I have tried heating a de Buyer 28cm frypan with 20,5cm flat exterior bottom, but more with the sloping sides and it has appeared to work also there. This pan would mostly go the 21cm hobs also though and could have similar issues as the Falk 24cm in keeping centered.
I had also wondered that perhaps its not so wise to even attempt using some real edge cases like the Falk 24cm frypan and the de Buyer on the large hob, when it comes to the pans staying in shape. Also if they are not centered, the resulting heat could be a bit all over the place for cooking, too.
When I bought my first home, my mom have me two BGH (yup Better Homes and Gardens) that she had stashed somewhere and never used. They’re 3 ply: one a 10" sauté and one a 1.5 Q saucepan. I love those two pieces to this day.
The more I use Apilco or Pillivuyt gratins and roasters, the more impressed I am. Clean up after a roast chicken is easy. Baked on Gruyere comes right off.
I’m always kind of afraid to use my porcelain roasters - they are pieces from my Villeroy and Boch dinnerware; they’ve sat in my cabinet for more than 40 years - but I have smaller Apilco pieces that I use all the time without disasters. Maybe I’ll give them a try … someday.
The Premium Porcelain used to make every ovenproof dish was developed specially by Villeroy & Boch and benefits from its great strength and high resistance to impact and chipping. For this reason, this material is not only suitable for crockery, but also for cooking and baking dishes.
I am making no representations and assuming no responsibility for the accuracy and truthfulness of the foregoing, but Villeroy & Boch seems to be ok with using them in the oven.
This is quite nice! And always a great endorsement when it has been in their collection for so long, and that you haven’t tired of it.
I have been looking into expanding my existing Rosenthal pure white porcelain dinner plates, with something more floral lol, but it would indeed also be good to check out Villeroy & Boch. What other designs do you like from them?
The various iterations of “French Garden” are all floral and beautiful. My mom had a set of Villeroy & Boch - I think it was called “Basket” - no longer made - that the late restaurant “La Cote Basque” in NYC used as its tableware. I think that’s where she saw it. I have a cup and saucer from the pattern that I use in her memory. I like classic patterns. My own bone china is Wedgewood Kutani Crane, also no longer made, but very classic floral/bird/lattice/Asian. I’ve never been tempted to part with it for something else, either.
Zwilling Aurora - made in Belgium, not China . . .
it’s 5-ply. now. . . . for most of me I totally diss’ed the ply question.
I have Bourgeat copper, 100+ year old Griswold cast iron, Darto steel…
the Aurora does indeed heat quicker, no opinion on the ‘holding heat’ issue as for certain task I go with the copper / cast iron.
absolute not able to offer an opinion on 3 ply vs 5 ply vs 600 ply stainless outer cookware - but it is clear to me the Aurora is quicker to heat up / boil - and does a dang fine job at saute - that however is due (mostly?) to the geometry of the pan - if you want to saute and flip stuff in the pan - a straight walled Bourgeat copper ‘saute pan’ cannot compete with the ease of flip&mix the Aurora rounded chine pans do. . . .
I love Kutani Crane. We got Aynsley Pembroke in 1975, somewhat similar. It rarely gets used because I inherited a ton of old blue and white Canton and we never really filled out the Aynsley. Plus, the Aynsley flunks the lead test and the old Canton doesn’t. Imagine how more awareness of things like lead would have changed the stuff we collected over the years!
I have my mother’s Royal Doulton Old Chelsea (pink, not green). I have no idea of its lead content; when I was little I thought it was the prettiest stuff in the world. My mother would give me tea in one of the teacups when I was sick, and soup in one of the soup bowls with ears. I felt better right away. I’ve never used it since she died; I just look at some pieces in my cabinet. I guess I should check on the lead. I also like Mason’s Mandarin Ironstone; my mom had several serving pieces of it, and I’ve gotten some demitasse cups and plates. I had to replace the dinner plates of my Kutani Crane - I only had 6 stacked, and nothing on top of them, but when I went to rearrange my cabinet, they were all cracked in half. I’ve never figured out why or how.
