I have also long been on the hunt for the perfect cold sesame noodle - for me, that’s a dupe for my favorite NYC takeout sesame noodles (from a place in Queens). I’ve tried a ton, including the NYT recipe you and @Gello referenced.
Although I like the NYT recipe in and of itself, it is NOTHING like the takeout noodles I was trying to mimic. After quite a bit of research, I found that the secret to sesame noodles that taste like the ones from hole-in-the-wall joints in Queens (and maybe all over NYC, I can’t speak to that) is that you really don’t need sesame at all. Nor vinegar, ginger, or any number of other ingredients. Instead, these places use a really simple and inexpensive blend of peanut butter, oil, soy sauce, sugar and maybe a little garlic and chili oil or other spicy element - that’s it. The other important thing is that you must use fresh or frozen egg noodles, the kind used for lo mein, for them to taste right with this sauce. Cooking up a box of dried spaghetti just doesn’t work.
Here’s my recipe for a pound of fresh lo mein:
1/2 cup soy sauce (regular sodium)
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
1/2 cup peanut oil
A few cloves of minced garlic or a couple of teaspoons of garlic paste from a tube, sauteed briefly in oil
2 t. red chili flakes, sauteed briefly in oil (or just use chili oil)
1 T. sugar (or to taste, I prefer it less sweet)
Sesame seeds, a drizzle of sesame oil and sliced green onions for garnish
Stir all sauce ingredients (except for garnishes) together until smooth. Meanwhile, boil the noodles until desired texture, drain and rinse with cold water until they are room temperature. Add sauce and mix well, adding a bit of water or oil to loosen if necessary. Serve immediately.
I also use the NYT recipe as a basis for a more “salad”-like recipe I make frequently in the summer:
1 pound dry noodles (I prefer regular fettucine or wide rice noodles)
One medium carrot, julienne (use a peeler to make long paper-thin shreds)
One red bell pepper, julienne
One small bunch green onions, chopped
One small bunch cilantro, chopped
1/2 cup chopped roasted peanuts
One minced jalapeno (if desired for spice)
- For Dressing
3 tablespoons sesame oil
3 tablespoon soy sauce
2 t. Chinese rice vinegar
2 t. white miso or extra tahini
2 tablespoons Chinese sesame paste
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon finely grated ginger
1 tablespoon grated garlic
2 tablespoons chili-garlic paste or Sriracha (more to taste)
salt to taste
1/2 cup warm water (or more to thin dressing)
Combine all dressing ingredients except water and whisk until completely combined. The dressing should be approximately the consistency of homemade mayonnaise - add some warm water if it is too thick. Taste for spice level/seasoning before adding to salad.
Cook the noodles just past al dente. Drain, rinse with cold water and toss with a little sesame or peanut oil to keep from sticking (noodles should be warm/room temperature). Combine with vegetables and dressing, adding a little warm water and/or additional sesame oil if salad seems dry (the noodles will absorb a lot of sauce). Garnish with chopped peanuts and additional green onion, if desired. Serve at room temperature (if you want to make ahead and refrigerate, pull it out of the fridge an hour before serving and refresh by mixing in a little warm water).
I’ve also made this recipe from David Lebovitz, which I liked but wasn’t in a hurry to repeat: https://www.davidlebovitz.com/cold-noodles-with-peanut-sauce/
And I have had this recipe saved for a while, but haven’t gotten around to trying it as Mr. Bionda isn’t a fan of Sichuan peppercorns. I would probably cut back on the vinegar in this as well - it seems excessive for the amount of other ingredients: https://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/cold-peanut-sesame-noodles
