Christmas in Paris

We are booked for 5 days in Paris over Christmas. I’m making note of the fabulous recommendations from @onzieme, @ParnParis et al., but I’m wondering what to do about Christmas Eve and Christmas Day? We will be arround the corner from George V, and I imagine one or more of their restaurants will be open for service. Thoughts?

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Eight years ago, but pretty sobering. Our experience at 3 star restaurants has been so mixed we tend to avoid them on principle.

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My late husband and I took our son and his family to Paris for Christmas in 2023. I found that many of the wonderful recommendations from Onzieme and the rest of the marvelous Hungry Onion crew were closed over the Christmas holidays.
We rented an apartment, so with the help of Picard I handled Christmas Eve dinner. After much searching
(and not wanting to go to one of the overpriced buffets at the high end hotels), I finally settled on the
Brasserie Lutetia in the Hotel Lutetia.
We had a lovely Christmas lunch in elegant surroundings in the upstairs dining room . The menu was a la carte. The wait staff was excellent and very kind to my two grandchildren. The food was delicious.
I am taking the family back to Paris again this coming Christmas and do hope that the Lutetia is still serving on Christmas day.

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Barbara, sorry to hear that you lost your husband, but happy to know you shared a wonderful Christmas in Paris with your family. Brasserie Lutetia sounds delightful.

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Paris by Mouth often publishes lists of restaurants open Dec. 24, 25 31 and Jan. 1. I ate at Dilia NYE last year, a restaurant I love and was well taken care of. Here’s the link to their 2023 edition: https://parisbymouth.com/celebrating-christmas-new-years-in-paris/

Pho… or Chine Massena for dim sum.

Are dim sum really good there? Never tried them. I always go to Tricotin.

Not like in America, but OK….

Hid behind a paywall, unfortunately

Quite a few places (Granite, Pantagruel) are closed for precisely the duration of our visit. Septime hasn’t posted the December schedule yet. Places with openings include Tour d’Argent, Taillevent, Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse. Thoughts?

There are a few good ideas in this article: https://parismood.com/blog/a-locals-guide-to-spending-christmas-eve-and-christmas-day-in-paris-2025-edition/. But most of my faves seem to be closed for Christmas, even the ones that used to be opened, such as Dilia and Géosmine. However, Bouillon Pigalle does seem to be open Christmas Day.

A couple of years ago I recommended Le Gabriel in La Réserve for Christmas to a friend. She and her family loved it. But it’s a Michelin 3-star now, so pricey. Other restaurants in hotels are also probably open, as well as oyster places. Maybe wine bars with their tapas menus?

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Thanks, the article has quite a few good suggestions. We had been wondering about one of the seafood places in Montparnasse.

Le Bistrot du Dôme at 1 rue Delambre (not its pricier sibling Le Dôme on Montparnasse) is a favorite of @Deuxchevaux and is excellent. I just don’t know if it’s open on Christmas Day. La Rotonde is not open from Dec. 24 -26 according to their FB page. But it appears that you can make an online reservation at Le Dôme on Christmas! Le Bistrot du Dôme appears to only take reservations by phone. Maybe @Deuxchevaux can explain how he does it…

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Hi Carole, just now noticing your last passage/ question about making reservations at le Bistro du Dome. Years ago, one could reserve on Fork. But in recent years, as you note, it takes reservations only by phone — and so now we usually ask our hotel to make that reservation for us. (Same regarding our favorite tables at La Rotonde.)

Jake

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It was a bit of a frustrating experience, but I managed to cobble together a lineup, all for lunch, as we will have dinners at “home” with the exception of planned evening outings for oysters and a visit to Relais d’ Venise (no reservations). On successive days we’ll visit

Gemellus
Le Jules Verne
Tour d’Argent
Market by Jean-Georges
Geosmine

I tried mightily but failed to score a reservation at Septime. I set my alarm for 3:58am (Boston time) so I could be ready when they released new times. Try as I might, I was never fast enough entering my details. I would click on an open time and by the time I finished entering my details it would tell me the time is no longer available.

Since we’ll be cooking at “home”, can anyone recommend cheese mongers, wine shops, boulangerie, … in or near the Golden Triangle?

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One of my favorite open markets in Paris, le Marché Président Wilson, is open from 7am to 1:30pm on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Great for shopping before lunch, for your “at home” meals.

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Oh, wow. 10 minute walk from our apartment!

My friend goes to this market and loves it. I am more Left Bank so a bit useless on Right Bank things. For standard type things, if you have Amazon (not sure if Prime needed)- Monoprix delivers through them. but two hour windows. Thinking water, s&p, TP, sponge, cooking oil etc- stuff that is a pain to carry and not fun- when doing basic stocking. Plus the grocery can get nuts during holiday. Won’t stop me from Le Grande Epiceire- got a jam problem. Well, a lot problems. My cheesemonger might hate me- there is a dolce gorgonzola interspersed with rows of masrcarpone- it is my dessert. Androuet has a truffle honey goat, also dessert. Quattre Hommes is also well regarded. I mostly eat dinner at home. It might be on the expensive side but like Compaignie Francaise Des Poivres & Des Epices. I am so happy to be in Paris- just not ready to grocery.

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Thanks for the tip on delivery of basics. Gorgonzola and mascarpone…yum. Reminds me of Gorgonzola cremifacato that you have to serve with a spoon.