Christmas in Paris

[MaxEntropy]

We got off to an auspicious start. Arrived CDG at 7am, and our AirBnB host was very kind to let us check in when we arrived in central Paris at 9am. Lunch at Gemellus was a 45 minute walk, but we appreciated the exercise. The unassuming entrance brings you into a small “vestibule” formed by curtains separating the front door from the dining room. The room is small - one round table suitable for 4, a smaller round table suitable for 3, and around 7 rectangular 2-tops that can be pushed together for larger groups. A small bar stands in the middle, functioning as a serving station and holding a bucket with an assortment of wines on ice.

The ceiling is quite formal, coffered with a dramatic classical glass chandelier suspended over the middle of the room, remnants from a former incarnation as an Italian restaurant. Three walls are dominated by large modern paintings, one a brightly-colored primitive that reminds me of an action-hero comic book or a Lichenstein. The other two are abstract. Table settings include circular leather placemats, with a semicircular cut-out on one side, where a leather coaster made from the same material can nestle. Cutler is perched on small stone holders in the stile of chopsticks.

We opted for the full 4-course lunch offering. Not listed is the amuse, consisting of 3 distinct treats. A small cup of deeply rich bouillon, small chestnut crakers topped with foie gras and served atop a bowl of chestnuts, and a single oyster topped with a bright green herbal sauce and something close to creme fraiche. The entree was was mackerel with foie gras, a combination that wouldn’t have occured to me, but worked well. Then octopus, followed by pork loin, both very pleasant (apologies for not having detailed descriptions - I thought I scanned the menu but I apparently fogot to hit “save”.) Dessert was a choice of either a small cake or a chocolate soufflé. The creme anglaise proffered with the soufflé was gladly accepted. The soufflé was deep dark but not sweet, much to my spouse’s enjoyment who is not normally a dark chocolate fan.

Mignardises served with coffee included a shot of a clear pear juice and small petites fours. Coffee (espresso for me) was somewhat bitter, which dominated my spouses capucinno as well. A matter of taste I guess.

The only disappointment, not the fault of the restaurant, was that our daugther was late due to traffic getting in from CDG. She joined us in time for octupus and desert. They were very gracious about accommodating her late arrival with two large suitcases. Fortunately we were among the last in the dinning room at lunch and we were able to park her gear next to us without disturbing anyone.

A very pleasant start to our Christmas holday in Paris.

[GretchenS]

Sounds wonderful! Can’t wait to read more of your adventures!

[MaxEntropy]

Day 2 - started and ended well.

We had tickets to join the opening tranche at Fondation Louis Vuitton, about an hour walk from our AirBnB. Stopped at the local boulangerie enroute for a coffee then made the trek past the Arc d’ Triomphe and across part of Bois de Boulogne. The building is striking inside and out, though it doesn’t quite compete with Gehry’s Guggenheim in Bilbao, either for the building or the setting. The art on exhibition was a Gerhard Richter retrospective, truly comprehensive and took us well over an hour to traverse. I was familiar with a few Rhicter works in the Busch-Reisinger, but had no clue about the breadth of his oeuvre. Truly impressive, and worth a trip to Paris to see it - it was assembled from collections across the globe.

Lunch broght my first screw up, probbaly not the last. The doorman at Le Jules Verne couldn’t find our lunch reservation, and we discovered it is for tomorrow. The same day that I have (had) a lunch reservation at Tour d’ Argent. Pleading on the phone with Tour d’ Argent, they kindly moved our reservation to Saturday dinner, so we’ll return to the Eiffel Tower tomorrow. In the mean time, what to do about lunch? It turns out this was not the first time I screwed up a lunch reservation at Le Jules Verne. 27 years ago I did something similar. (I think I’ve relayed that story more than once on HO). My girlfriend (now spouse) remebered a place nearby that Fodors recommended, Au Bon Accueil, and once again, they were able to accomdate us. The food nor the warmth of the greeting were not quite up to our recollection, but it sufficed given the circumstances. I think we’ll be pleased if we never have to return.

After a respite at the AirBnB, SO_1 and SO_2 were ready for some shopping, so we started with Galleries Lafayette (Champs Elysee). They found this lacking, because it didn’t have a Carel shoe section. So off to the mother ship, off Haussmann. After a couple of hours seeking out the dad/boyfriend chairs (there were a few, but not nearly enough), I was saved by the store closing at 8pm. A hankering for oysters called for a quick search of the area, and unfortunately for some reason the Paris oyster Google map maintained by enterprising Onions wouldn’t load on my phone. A couple of random web sites recommended the plateau fruits de mer at Au Petit Riche, a short walk away. Without a reservation they offered us bar tables, but within a few minutes offered us a table in one of the dining rooms. We started with a dugastion of oysters, from Bretagne, Fin de Clairs, Belons, and Utah Beach. My SO_1 is particularly fond of Bretagne oysters, but she was won over by the Utah Beach. Plumper than her usual want, but a nice texture and somewhat complex. We had rosé all around with the oysters, SO_1 a Sancerre and SO_2 and I a Veuve Cliquot brut rose. Next up a shared assortment of entrees (starters), no mains. A pumpkin soup with fourme d’Ambert, pork sausage en croute, a rustic pork terrine, and foie gras (duck). Nothing fancy but all were just so. The wine card had an extensive collection of wines from the Loire, but not a Sancerre by the glass. A pleasant Pouilly -fumé served admirably. The rooms were classic French, woodwork that belied a century or more, high ceilings and mirrored walls. We had eyed the cheese selection on the way in, but couldn’t muster the fortiitude, so we stopped after the entrees. Gemellus notwithstanding, this was the most enjoyable meal so far.

The oysters were shucked in a station outside, manned by a solitary shucker.

A place we would come back to.

[MaxEntropy]

Christmas Eve Day started with a visit to Notre Dame. The restoration was a monumental effort, but somehow seems…sterile. The stained glass that survived remains breathtaking, though. Afterwards a brief stop at an adjacent cafe for a crepe (SO_1) and omelette (SO_2)…just a cafe creme for me…gave us sustenance for more shopping. Shoes were scored all around (well, by the SOs who shop) and we made it to Le Jules Verne, this time on the correct day, for lunch. It didn’t disappoint, and it seems the food has improved since our last visit. We opted for the smallest of the available menus, “Views over Paris”, at 4 courses, but of course there is always more. There were two amuse, another chestnut-themed morsel, a bite-sized tartlet with a cherry reduction, and small morsel of duck liver with a Parmesan foam.

The crab and langoustine that I opted for both arrived in multiple realizations, one a crab soup. The langoustine was delicatley cooked (sous vide) and paired with risotto flavored by crab roe. Both outstanding. The cheese supplment was a Mont d’Or Vacherin, served warm in the traditional spruce wrapper, topped with a generous supply of black truffle and served with a small brioche bun. Easily the most decandent dish we’ve tucked into so far.

The pineapple dessert also came in multiple realizations, including a tartlet and sorbet. Mignardises sent us on our way in need of a nap.

While the food has climbed a notch or two since our last visit, the service was noticeably slow at the beginning and end. A minor irritation was the somewhat officious email reminder that jeans, sneakers, and sportswear are not permitted, and jackets for men de rigueur, which proved to be hot air as we rode up the elevator with a group dressed in jeans, sweatshirts, designer sneaks, and without jackets. They were not alone in the restaurant dressed in apparent contradiction to the terms of service.

Still, the experience of being nestled among the steelwork of the Eiffel Tower, gazing out over this magnificant city, is incomparable. Spending a few hours with my spouse and daugther made it all the more worthwhile.

[MaxEntropy]

Christmas Day started with a brief excursion to the nearby boulangerie for a fresh baguette, and assorted pastries. Bless the French for deeming boulangeries to be “essential services”. We joined these with French butter, speck, gravlax, avocado and tomato picked up days prior at the local Monoprix for a delightful Christmas morning breakfast.

A lazy morning gave way to a brisk walk to Market by Jean-George Vongerichten, just off Champs Elysee for Christmas dinner. The room is casual but smart. The menu was supplemented by a few Christmas offerings. SO_2 started with a cucumber-infused martini (very very good), SO_1 and I started with mocktails from an extensive list, a ginger-infused tea for her and a mango/guava/lime/mint concoction for me. Very refreshing. We shared a “black plate” comprised of five different morsels: salmon sushi over crispy rice, crab roll, tuna spring roll, shrimp satay, and chicken samosa. The last four each had a dedicated sauce, served in a rectabgular plate divided into four wells. A fun way to start.

We shared a salad of endive, apple, pear, and blue cheese, a pleasant intermezzo.

For mains SO_1 had sea bream in a sweet and sour sauce, SO_2 had charred duck breast with cabbage and a chili/lime sauce, and I had a Christmas special of poulet en papillote, with black truffle and foie gras, sauce “Jacqueline”, and pomme “Maxime”. I’m not familiar with Jacqueline or Maxime, but I was delighted to share their namesakes. The potatoes were exceedingly thin, perhaps using a microtome if not a very fine mandolin, with a lovely slight crispy texture at the edges. Another decadent dish, sort of an alternative to beef Wellington.

For dessert SO_2 opted for a classical sundae, SO_1 a Gran Marnier “cake” composed of layers of crepes, and I had simple sorbet.

Service was especially welcoming, our waitress clearly enjoyed the food and shared her enthusiasm for specific dishes. We chose Market in part because we miss the Market that was in Boston for a few years, and because it was among a handful of places we could make a reservation for Christmas Day. I needn’t have been quite so concerned – quite a number of restaurants were open.

I was on a waitling list for the sold-out performance of Le Nozze Di Figaro, and received an alert yesterday of 3 available tickets - so we are off to the Paris Opera this evening.

Merry Christmas, Onions!

[medgirl]

@MaxEntropy

The cheese supplment was a Mont d’Or Vacherin, served warm in the traditional spruce wrapper, topped with a generous supply of black truffle and served with a small broche bun. Easily the most decandent dish we’ve tucked into so far.

Wow! That looks and sounds totes amazeballs

[MaxEntropy]

@medgirl

totes amazeballs

I will forever quote you @medgirl !

[MaxEntropy]

Day after Christmas – I may have to turn in my Hungry Onion card.

Turns out we are not so hungry. SOOOO much food, we turned in our rez at Geosmine. The thought of another 4-course meal (really 6 or 7) was too much.

We did eat, though. A stop at a random place along Avenue George V for crepes and coffee fortified us for the walk to Musee d’Orsay. Turns out the Paris Musem Pass doesn’t help a great deal with getting in - we spent 30 minutes in the “C1” queue before gaining entrance. The John Singer Sargent exhibition was impressive in its breadth ( a few familiar paintings from Boston and New York made the trip) and while very busy, wasn’t as slammed as the rest of the museum. We gave up on trying to see most of the Impressionist collection, with the odd exception of Manet, who seemed to attract little attention.

A chance article in the NY Times about a small boutique in the left bank near the Musee sent us on a mini-diversion, then later on to the department store Samritaine to complete some tax-free paperwork, this time with passport in hand. A lovely cafe on the fifth floor provided refreshment while admiring the Art Nouveau architecture. At this point we could think about eating again, and decided to brave the line at Relais de Venise Port Maillot. We arrived at 6:30pm, ahead of the 6:45 opening, but were too far back in line to make the opening wave. SO_1 and SO_2, though they both abhor lines, decided to stick it out. Just after 7:30 we made it in. We were ushered to a small upstairs dining room, the first time we’ve been above the ground floor. Our order was taken before we even fully settled in - efficiency, thy name is Relais d’ Venise. Bread, a simple salad and our wine arrived in minutes. The steak followed as soon as our salad plates were cleared. On our last visit the famous sauce was looking a little wan, but this time it had returned to the enchanting green-hued sauce of our memories. More (perfect) fries than I needed, and not leaving a drop of sauce behind, we still had room for desert. I don’t think I recalled the extensive desert menu - this time we ordered the towering Vacherin, the “tulip” (chantilly cream with kiwi in a pastry shell the shape of a tulip), and the cheese plate. The cheese plate was phenomenal, three soft ripe cheeses (goat, possible a Camembert, and a creamy blue) and something resembling an alpine cows milk cheese.

The Paris-knowleggable among our HO clan will no doubt be disapproving, but we hold a fondness for Relais de Venise that perhaps defies logic. We were first sent there by a dear departed friend from Besancon, but I think our enjoyment is not entirely attributable to nostalgia or the amazo effect. The food is simple but really good. At 30 EUR for salad and a generous portion of steak and frites (and that mystery sauce, which is still debated) it’s an undeniable bargain.

We managed to get to 15,000 steps, but we need to get in more before braving Tour d’Argent for dinner tomorrow.

[MaxEntropy]

Well, our culinary journey in Paris came to an abrupt end when our daugther contracted food poisoning. I guess we are fortunate that it occured two days before our departure and not the day before - she is on the mend and should be ready to fly home tomorrow.

The ultimate meal was at Tour 'Argent. This venerable institution has been counting it’s ducks (literally) for more than a century. We arrived precisely at 7pm for our 7pm reservation, and were invited to the ground-floor cocktail lounge for aperitif. An excellent dirty martini (so says my daugther), kir royale (spouse) and glass of Champagne and about 30 minutes later we were inivited up to the restaurant. Our table was close to the entrance, not the best table in the house (but no complaints as my scheduling screw-ups made us happy for ANY table) but it turned out to have one advantage. It was a few steps above the main part of the dining room, so we had an undistrubed view down the Seine (and of Notre Dame) over the heads of the other diners. The room was alive with dark-suited waiters, sommeliers, bussers and who knows how many stages of the hierarchy. The amount of movement (and avoidance of collisions) made it look like modern choreography. As we sat we were immediately offered water and someone else lit the three candles in a silver candelabra on the far side of the large table. Water was served in rather substantial silver chalices.

The menu prominently features duck, with 3 different options for the main course (the glass duck on the table is a hint). Two are for two persons - my daugther and I opted to share the “Mazarine” duckling, served in two courses. But first, the amuse and entrees. Two rounds of amuse - the first a enlongated plate with 3 bites, and a separate bite served on a small stone slab, to be eaten in a prescribed order. A second amuse was a soup (that we think included raw egg, a likely suspect as the cause of our daughter’s distress).

The somm was very engaging, and wow - the wine list is an 8 inch book. I could only nod as she pointed. She steered us toward a half-bottle of 2009 Savennieres, and a bottle of 2020 Cote Rotie. The Savennieres had a golden color, and was suprisingly sweet - at first we thought it an odd recommendation for our entrees (lobster bisque for our daugther, langoustine for my spouse, and pike quenelles with mushroom duxelles and truffle for me. But it went quite well. All three dishes were gorgeous, but my spouse declared the quenelles the winner. She deemed the langoustine at Le Jules Verne the better rendition. Our daugther loved the lobster bisque, but sadly this was the last dish she would enjoy.

My spouse opted for John Dory with truffles. The first duck course (for daugther and me) arrived plated as two generous portions of breast with braised endive. The Cote Rotie by this point had opened up, and went swimmingly with the duck. Our daugther managed just a couple of bites before the gastric distress became too much for her to soldier on, and she retired for a lengthy visit to the ladies room. In seconds after she departed a server materialized with a silver plate cover, a vain attempt to keep her dish warm. She was never able to finish it. She did return and managed a bite of the second duck course, a “sausage” made from the confit leg, but unfortunately she was in no position to enjoy the rest of the evening, even if just sitting. We canceled our dessert orders but my spouse and I did soldier on through the cheese course - served from a cart (I should say "one of the carts - there were two similarly provisioned carts in the dining room).

I’m terrible at pictures, but these are courtesy of our daugther. Note our duck number, 1,203,234.

A few final thoughts. Food poisoning notwithstanding, the flavors and service at Tour d’Argent were exceptional. Michelin has afforded them one star - yet two for Le Jules Verne. This relative assessment is as baffling to me as the recent Michelin assessment of restuarants in my home town of Boston.

We ended up not being able to sample widely (other than Gemellus) from the more au courant restaurants described by our Parisian Hungry Onions, but then, a more general statement could be that a week in Paris is not enough.

The most memorable/enjoyable dishes on the trip included the langoustine at Le Jules Verne (spouse), the Mont d’Or with truffles and potato foam at Le Jules Verne (all of us), the duck at Tour d’Argent (we have to bring our daugther back so she can enjoy it too), the simple steak frites at Relais de Venise, and the “black plate” at Market by Jean-George.

We greatly appreciated the Sophie Lebreuilly boulangerie near our AirBnB. It’s a small chain that doesn’t seem to get a lot of love, but fresh baguettes and proximity carried the day for us.

While our daugter was resting this aftrenoon my spouse and I went for a short walk, on this our final full day in Paris, to climb to the top of Arc 'd Triomphe. Looking out over the city we were reminded of how much there is still to explore. I think the phrase is “je reviens”.

[onzieme]

Thanks for your report, MaxEntropy.

Very sorry for your daughter’s food poisoning. At least, as you point out, it came towards the end of the trip.

Re two stars at Jules Verne and one at Tour d’Argent (I’ve never been to either):

1. it’s just one visit to each that you had; but more importantly,
2. Michelin more or less admits that beyond one star, the food is not necessarily better, but just more luxurious ingredients and other luxurious accoutrements in the restaurant.
   For me and some other HO regulars I know, our vote for the best restaurant in Paris is a one-star (Alliance).

[Tucsonbabe (Barbara)]

You’ve got that right! I am having lunch there today.

[Tucsonbabe (Barbara)]

Thank you Max for your thorough report. That is a shame about your daughter’s food poisoning. I hope she recovered quickly.
I was very interested in your report on Tour d’Argent.
My late husband I ate lunch there soon after it reopened after the major renovation. We had not been there in many years. Perhaps it is because they had just reopened., but the place was a disaster. The weight staff was very disorganized and obviously under a great deal of stress. Who knows it might’ve been a completely new staff as I think they were closed for over two years.
It was so bad, that I finally poured the last half bottle of our wine myself. Not that pouring wine is beneath me,
but at the Tour’s prices, it should not be necessary. It left a bad taste ( no pun intended) and we will never return.
From your description, it appears they might have otter their act together.

[Tucsonbabe (Barbara)]

Sorry, my iPad decided to send my reply before I edited it. I meant Wait Staff and my last line was gotten their act together.
I too am in Paris with my son,his wife and my two grandchildren. They went off to Mont Saint-Michel this morning. Since I have no intention of entertaining frostbite, I stayed behind and am taking myself to lunch at Alliance, which as Onzieme says, is the best restaurant in Paris.

[MaxEntropy]

Barbara, I agree that at the prices Tour d’Argent commands, there is no excuse for missteps. I would say the same of Le Jules Verne too, but the tarrif there is not as steep as at Tour d’Argent.

Enjoy Alliance!

[MaxEntropy]

@onzieme , thanks for all the insights you (and @ParnParis et al.) have shared with us. I learned on this trip that I need to plan further in advance in some instances, and be quicker entering my particulars when reservations are released (I was too slow typing to grab openings at Septime).

My spouse and I have an extended work-related visit to Frankfurt coming up in February/March, and we hope to make it to Paris for at least one weekend. Restaurant Alliance is at the top of my list. Though their web site poses a different set of challenges - my French is nonexistent, so I’ll be leaning on Google Translate.

[sfcarole (Carole)]

The top left corner of the Alliance website allows you to toggle between English and French. This is true of most restaurant sites in Paris. Also, you can train your computer to autofill your name, email, phone, address fairly easily. For the phone number you do have to scroll down to United States to get the right country code. Filling out a reservation form shouldn’t take more than 30 seconds.

[MaxEntropy]

Thanks for the IT support! Landing on their web site from a French IP address that option didn’t appear. It’s there now. I did manage to enter my particulars in under 30 seconds with the help of Safari, but still not fast enough for Septime. Or for last-minute tickets for the Paris Opera, until the 4th try.

[VaPaula (Paula)]

Thanks for reporting back! Sounded like a (mostly) successful trip. Hope you have smooth & uneventful travels back home,

[MaxEntropy]

How was lunch?

[Tucsonbabe (Barbara)]

Absolutely wonderful.Thank you for asking. The food was extraordinary (as always) and Shawn made me feel perfectly comfortable dining solo.
I discovered last Spring when my sister and I lunched there that his mother is French/American. She spent many of her younger years in the U.S. She and his father were having lunch also and Shawn introduced
us. I immediately realized where Shawn gets his charm.
Alliance is truly a Parisian treasure.