As @GretchenS observed previously, for some of us that space will always be “the old Rialto space”. We ate there on several occasion back in those days, delighting in the Clinton years on Clintonian sightings (people in or around the Clinton administration). I threw a landmark, surprise party for my wife there one year, with a table overlooking Charles Square filled with friends before we arrived. Jody Adams graciously came out to chat. A few years later when it was now Benedetto we ate there for another birthday, but didn’t like it as much.
It’s been Bar Enza for a few years now, although we missed the brief period when it was run by Mark Ladner (we’ve eaten at Del Posto in NY, and had been looking forward to his 100-layer lasagna here). But, we finally experienced it in a huge way recently.
I needed to throw at very short notice a party to mark an important, although rather complex event and I chose one of the private dining rooms that Bar Enza offers. By coincidence, the room turned out to be in the very same region of the dining space, overlooking Charles Square, as our table had been at that birthday celebration at Rialto many years ago. With curtains drawn back at my request, and the lights on around the Charles Square Market below, the event took on a magical effect.
The execution of the party was flawless, although it involved complex choreographing, and guests coming from all the nearby New territories – New Hampshire, New York, New Jersey. The food came out timed precisely as I needed it to be – this was an essential because of the precise needs of our guest of honor – and the entire staff did exactly what was expected, including following some complex social-distancing rules (that were absolutely essential in this case). I could not have asked for a better-run affair. If you’ve a party to throw, throw it here.
OK, I’ve heard rumors that this is a food group, so what of the food?
I was too busy orchestrating to eat the way I normally like to eat, but whatever I ate was very good. Of the 5 apps, the shrimp tempura were superb and the arancini a close second. All three pastas – Bolognese, porcini fusilli, and gnocchi with lobster were exceptional, the sliced steak and roast chicken close behind, especially the very chicken-fatty (in a good way) chicken. I like my chicken to taste distinctly like chicken, not some “could be anything” bland, mystery meat.
Desserts were simple – cookies and suchlike, all also very good (although not clear if made in-house).
Based on this, I’ll certainly eat at the restaurant when I can. The space is not as graciously laid out as it was in Rialto days, but still looked pleasant enough. The night we had our party the rest of the restaurant was packed.
I suppose I could go without them again.
