Bangkok Thailand 2025, and maybe a little Lampang, Hua Hin or Ko Tao later...

Flying in to Thailand is always a thrill and this trip is no different. I actually flew into the old Don Mueang Airport rather than the new Suvarnabhumi, but it was nice to see the old place. The trip into town was faster due to the “new” raised highway that wasn’t there 20+ years ago (?) when I last flew into Don Mueang. And my driver was trying to beat the morning rush into the city by driving at 120 to 140 kph on the straight parts of the road. Like any courageous sort, (sarc/) I did not look up at the road or the traffic. I kept my eyes down on my Kindle reader until traffic forced my Grab driver to slow down.
It was 8am so my room was not ready to so I walked down Sukhumvit Road to Sarnie’s, a coffee and ice cream place on a Soi nearby. Very quiet, unassuming place that now has power plugs at most tables which is great. Ordered a mediocre iced latte and a great home made vanilla ice cream/peach lemongrass gelato. Great welcome back to Bangkok!

Room still was not going to be ready so I visited my favorite Michelin Bib place on Sukhumvit, Rung Rueang Pork Tung for the small version of their Tom Yum with mixed meats. And then remembered that I like the fish ball and minced pork better and that the small is just too small a bowl to work well. I will remember next time.

Wandered about by Gentle Monster at Emquartier and got a kick out of the last remaining Christmas decorations.

Then my room was ready and I fell out, slept like a log for several hours. Woke up just in time for dinner and I was Jonesing for some Pad Kra Prao, so it was off to the Marriott Marquis for their “boutique” street food cafe, the Siam Tea Room. Sounds oxymoronic to me but they tried. I ordered Pad Kra Prao and the waitress recommended pork belly instead of minced pork and I unwisely agreed. The pork belly is not right for the dish and the fried egg was overdone, not jammy at all. But the mango and passionfruit shake was on point!

Walked home in the comforting heat, traffic noise and humidity of Bangkok. It is interesting to see what seems like home after a few weeks of travel.
As soon as the sun was up I was showered and went down to the breakfast rooms for a quick perusal of the options. Rembrandt believes in a little of everything, so I spooned up a small amount of several dishes, then grabbed a machine made cappuccino and a fruit yogurt. Nice breakie. Then it was off to the Sky Train to Surasak Station and a walk up Surasak Road to the Bangkokian Museum of early Bangkok life. First, I love the Sky Train, it is just a cool way to travel around Bangkok. Second, the Bangkokian Museum is old fashioned fun. It is three old homes from the late 1890’s and early 1900’s with many of the original furnishings and LOTS of photos of Grandmother and a sculpture of Dr. Grandfather. And tons of memorabilia. Well worth a visit! And it is free!

Then it was a short’ish walk to Chinatown past an elementary school and a Mecha sculpture. Pretty cool!

I visited 2 favorite places of mine in Chinatown, both places recommended to me by Peter years ago. I hit Jay Hieng Fishball Soup for an excellent bowl. Started with just a few tastes of the broth. Just about perfect. Rich, savory, just a great dish. Love this place. As I was leaving I realized that they had not charged me for my Coca Cola so I held up the change and explained. They both smiled and nodded and shooed me down the road. I do not know what that was about but it was charming.

Then I spotted a cool elephant sculpture and stood for 10 minutes waiting for a tuk tuk to roll by in back of it. The light was bad and the photo did not turn out that well but I liked the elephant so it was worth it. The street sweeper laughed when I explained why I was standing there with my phone camera in hand. Glad to give him a moment of humor. :slight_smile:

Then I stopped at Ek Teng Phu Ki for Ceylon Milk Tea and Coconut Cream Custard Toast. Love this place and the little AC cooled nook upstairs is a great place to recharge your energy levels. And both tea and toast are perfect.

Then I saw two cats just napping the afternoon away and realized it was time for my own siesta.

When I woke up again I wandered over to the Emsphere. It is just an over the top conglomeration of fairly decent cafes, tons of punters and a very nice display of Lotus roadsters.

I left there and visited a Mom and Pop place called Flowers Cafe. I was seated at a group table that appeared to be a billiards table with a piece of plywood over the felt. The downside was that of the three groups at the table 2 were German, 1 was French and then there was me. I have found that food in Thailand tends to be better in cafes that have fewer of people like me. Western I mean, not just American. I was the only “Anglo” at Jay Hieng and Ek Teng and at both of them the food was great.
Anyway, I ordered Seafood Yum Woon Sen and Fried Morning Glory. Good, not great, but it was so quirky I am tempted to go back to delve deeper into the menu.

Home again, happy to be back in Thailand! Not sure if I will go north or south next week. Guess I will play it by ear.

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Love Bangkok!! :slight_smile:

And your pics!

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Living vicariously through you! I really want to return to Thailand, with a few nights in Bangkok for sure.

I can conjure the taste of the many noodle soups in my mouth to this day.

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It has been decades since I saw mosquito netting on a bed – the pic transported me right back to my grandparents’ home, where the nets were set up every night and taken down every morning!

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Looks absolutely delish.

The Thais call this “kuai tiao nam sai”, a Taechiu-Chinese noodle dish. In Singapore, we call this same noodle dish “bak chor mee”, also of Taechiu (called Teochew in Singapore) origin - we even have a 1-MICHELIN-star one by Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle.

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I spent 5 days in Bangkok and ate very well at times and indifferently at others. I really, really wish there was a way to quantify how spicy you want a dish! LOL!
I stayed off of Sukhumvit Road at the Rembrandt, an old hangout from my younger years. Love the place and the people. Just very nice. As I got up every morning I enjoyed the sight of the meticulously maintained home prayer temple. I think it is san phra phum. I used to think it was Buddhist, then I thought it was animist, then I saw a Buddhist monk blessing one and looked into it and it is both. A Thai way of doing things is not always like it is done everywhere else. And I found out the reason for the red Fanta drink I see on this little temple most days. Kind of makes you go “Hmmm??”
I am not sure if the tale I have been told is completely true, but a couple Thai people said red Fanta is best for offerings because it looks more like blood.
Not saying that is true, but that is the story they gave this farang.

Then it was off to Chinatown on the MRT subway. But shortly after I got to Surasak station, this cat refused to let me pass unless I walked off the sidewalk and into traffic. Fine, it is his street. So I walked with the buses for a minute and I look back and a Thai family is following me. The cat would not let them pass either.
This has happened to me before.
Dogs like me.
Cats do not.

I tried to get into an old Hokkien structure, Hong Sieng Kong House, but it was closed so I snapped this shot and resumed my foot tour of Talat Noi, the old neighborhood just south of Chinatown.

Talat Noi is full of street art of varying quality, most rather good.

I have a few videos I wish I could download of panning shots of wider artwork. Very cool area.

I was not sure what to think of that one.
This one i like a lot.

Then it was onto the Chao Phraya River on one of the Express Boats. Always a beautiful trip!

I got off at Phra Arthit, near Ram Buttri Road and Ko San Road, which is traveler central. I used to stay on Ram Buttri for years, loved the crazy aspect of it.
This is my favorite Tom Yum Goong dish in BKK.

Near Ram Buttri is Soi Kraisi, which is home to the family business that makes my favorite street food, Mam Tom Yum Goong. Simply phenomenal Thai seafood soup. Someday, though, I really need to find out how to eat those big, half peeled shrimp without wearing a good amount of the juice…

Then I returned to Krua Apsorn for my favorite Golden Curry with Crab. And got a very, very mild version of the dish I got last time.

I wish that there was a way to order dishes so that I do not get the White Bread version, but I also do not want to get the version where the chef is adding a huge amount of chiles so that it will be hotter than the competition. I just had a dish in Hua Hin (at Dar) that was rated as 55 on the kitchens scale of 120 heat units.

And it was blistering hot. The waiter brought me a steel bowl to show me how many chiles went in the dish and I was just thinking, what ever. It felt like I was in a “stump the tourist” game and I was the target. That happened once to me at Hong Kong Palace in Falls Church and i carry a grudge to this day.

And to make it worse, the dish was too hot to enjoy the flavors, plus the mussels and shrimp were tough, apparently they were cooked long in advance.

Argh.
Wandered by Gentle Monster/emQuartier on the way home. I love Bangkok!

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But then it was home to the Rembrandt and relaxing by the pool w a cold Singha beer.

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The cat gate keeper:
What… is your name?
What… is your quest?
What… is the capital of Assyria?
Great photos and a great cato encounter :sweat_smile:

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Fantastic report, thank you so much for sharing your adventures with us :pray:t2:

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The vexing problem of “spicy, but not too spicy” continues to plague visitors and now sometimes even locals. Over the past 100 years, and in particular the last 20 with rise in prominence of Isaan and Southern Thai cuisine among locals, Thai food has gotten spicier. Many new Thai restaurants that have arisen in the last 5 years with talent returning to Bangkok during COVID are now refusing to adjust spice levels at all, even for locals who may not be accustomed to regional intensity. It’s actually become easier to identify restaurants to avoid simply if they even ask or allow spice level to be considered.

My strategy is the following: I say in Thai “I can eat spicy food like a Bangkok native”, sometimes adding but not like Isaan. This gets out of the “1-5” range for western tourists and indicates a passing knowledge of how spice level varies in different parts of the country and it usually does the trick in avoiding both the farang tourist bland and the “you want spicy? We will give you spicy” game that is sometimes played (see the now shuttered Ugly Baby in NYC which made a game of this).

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Seems like you need one of those old Chowhound passports you can show to restaurants to know you mean business. I still have one or two in a drawer somewhere. I actually used it once to some positive effect, though it was another customer who had to explain. I can’t be sure the cook was literate.

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My last few days were split between the Thai beach resort city of Hua Hin and the transit center/market city of Chumphon. Both are places i have been visiting since 1995 so they are old, comfortable favorites. They both have seen the closing of my old favorite bar/guest houses so it is kind of bittersweet to visit. All Nations in Hua Hin and the Farang Bar were sort of homes away from home where the owner recognized familiar faces, or faked it, when you arrived.
But Hua Hin is the winter getaway destination for a high school friend of mine who grew up in my old home town so it is fun to see her there.
We met at the Pae Moi Tuesday Night Market and this was not our best choice. We skirted the fried insect table and went straight for the Kanom Jeeb (?) griddle, love these sweet little flat waffle things.

Then i got barbecued pork ribs that seemed a bit off. Not great food but excellent company.
I was happy to see my hotel lit up as i got home. Loligo is a friendly sort of place.

Grabbed a mixed plate of breakfast there in the morning. Not great but a nice bite in the am.

Walked to Hua Hin Beach and admired the ponies and the waves.

Then hit Bluport Mall for a coffee and fell seriously in like with a Thai plate set. $260US for the plate alone. Maybe not going home with me after all. It is beautiful though. But at that price I want some knowledgeable advice before i buy.

Went home and saw a kitten stalking me as i neared home. Animals always brighten a travel day.

Then it was off to the train station to head south to Surat Thani. Diesel Rail Car trips are probably best if you limit them to 2 or 3 hours. Loud, jerky and uncushioned is no way to go through life.

But a travel day is a good day even if it is a bit less than perfect. To see new places makes it a good day from the git go. Just seeing my pack in a train station brings a smile to my face.

Sorry i did not take many photos of food. The most memorable meal was at Dar, which is the place i already vented about.
Grumble, grumble, grumble.
So i am off to Chumphon, Surat Thani next, then Trang, then Koh Mook.

I am looking forward to the islands.

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I miss Thai islands/beaches, but I don’t miss Thai trains. :grinning:

Can’t wait for the next installment!

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Riding a horse on the beach was on my bucket list ever since I started riding. Did it once in Scotland (not quite the same, as you might imagine), but would love to again some day.

Your report makes me want to go back to Thailand something fierce!

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Total Thai noob here with a potentially dumb question. Do places as such generally have an English menu?

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90 to 10 they will have an english version of their menu. And the 10 that do not, well you have Google Translate.
Which works well half of the time and is laughably wrong the other half.
So there is the pesky 5/100 where you have to just guess and hope for the best.

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Fabulous reporting as always! Love your animal encounters!!

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Still working my way south. Chumphon is known most for being the jumping off place for people traveling to Ko Tao and Ko Phangan, but I have always enjoyed hanging out here for a day or two and checking out cafes that tend to be more for Thai people than tourists. But I hit a slightly “Western” place called the Glass Cafe for “Northern” Gaeng Ped Sen Lek/Red Curry with Duck. The noodles did not seem right (more like Italian pasta) but the duck was good.

The best meal I had in Chumphon this trip was one of the “simplest”, my old favorite, Pad Kra Pao. This time at Chaifu Trakulkhao oppo the train station. Love this dish! A little vinegar w/chilis from the chili tray and it is even better! They also served it with a small bowl of a very nice light soup. Or the contents of the finger bowl were delicious. Not sure…

Then I was off to the other side of town. Ran into a cute little dog enjoying a siesta.

Last dish I had before I left Chumphon was at Suksamar, Green Curry with Rice Noodles. Mild but not boring. Not sure what the Thai name of this dish is, it is served a little differently from what I am used to here. They plate the noodles separately and you add as many or as little as you like. Interesting. Nice balance of spice and richness, finely minced chili, coconut milk, basil and palm sugar if Wiki is right. Maybe a bit too sweet but good.

Then it was off to the mini-van stop and a reminder of what it used to be like to “shower” using a mandi or doing you business with the older squat toilets then flush the thing with water from the ladle/bowl. Almost none of the touristed areas have the squat toilets any more let alone the mandi. The old shower mandis usually had a larger water container further from the toilet but the concept was similar. This may look kind of old fashioned, but it is a lot easier to clean than a western toilet and it does not require a lot of plumbing to do its job.

There was a brief stop in Surat Thani, then I was finally pulling into Trang, a city I have not visited in over 20 years. Not much has changed except for a new mall with a Robinson’s and a Starbucks. Same southern style Tuk Tuks with the old school drivers.

First stop was at a Mom and Pop place, the Lunch Box Shop on Phattalung Road. I ordered the crab with fried rice and it was perfect. Big chunks of flavorful crab with the perfectly seasoned rice. Love this dish. “Mama” peeked at me around the corner as I was tucking in to the food, nothing I like better than seeing a cook taking satisfaction in a guest really enjoying their food.

I checked into Nara Residence, nice room and a warm welcome.

After getting settled in, I wandered through the weekend night market, got chicken skewers and walked by the Clock Tower.

Then stopped off at a cool older (?) reno’ed building to dine at Limoncino where I enjoyed a welcoming glass of Lemoncello, a nice Arugula salad, excellent spinach ravioli, roast lamb (only so-so) and a couple Japanese Chita Highball cocktails. Toddled home stuffed and slightly unsteady on my pins.

Visited Laytrang 2 for dim sum the next day, crab curry, pork buns, pork riblets, some crispy noodle wrapped thing, robusta coffee with milk, nice meal!

Ready to get my van and boat to Ko Mook soon! Nara Residences has been very comfortable! Interesting thing is that I have not had one over or under-spiced dish in Trang, all of them were nicely spicy but not over the top, burn the house down, rolling Scovilles hot. And I am almost the only tourist in town, or so it seems. I think I see a pattern here. LOL!
I have met the enemy and he is us!

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Wow, that crab fried rice looks amazing! And I remember both the squat toilets and the mandi. Up north we ‘showered’ by pouring buckets of water over ourselves. Good times.

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I’m doing all I can to clear up my working schedule so I can go to Thailand in the next coming months! So far no luck though… :frowning:

Great pics and indeed that crab fried rice looks amazing.

I’m starting to appreciate the smaller cities in Thailand more and more, indeed to really experience daily life but with all the Thai elements like great food, friendly people, and just a relaxed vibe!

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Just note that in the coming months the hot season starts (March-early June) and provincial capitals and small towns are much harder to operate in as the heat can be oppressive with less options for relief than in Bangkok or the beaches…

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