I was in the SE corner off the island in 2023, and again in September of 2024.
I wrote some pretty long reports about where I ate; you might have to wade past areas that are not on your itinerary, but I hope this helps. In Ragusa, I would not repeat at IL Duomo; nothing was at all bad about it but I did not feel as if it carried the sense of place that so imbues LA MADIA in Licata. If you were to take a detour, I would highly recommend LA MADIA. But even without that detour, there is such marvelous eating all around there…
In case you will begin your trip in Catania:
Long ahead, with Ragusa beginning in post#34, and more towards the end of the thread, and details of LA MADIA, Salina (Aeolians, and more Catania…kind of jumbled up cause I had trouble posting photos)
We had one dinner in Scicli, at BAQQALA:
In Siracusa, DON CAMILLO gets very mixed reports. They have a la carte as well as tasting. It’s on the elegant side but, as you’d expect, far from formal. The same warmth and welcome from staff as we found all over the island. I went for their spaghetti with Ricci di mare, which was not so easily found in September. (Not sure if it was the month or if there was a ban, but after confirming that they had it here–it’s one of their signature dishes–I booked, and we had an excellent dinner)
Our second dinner was on the Siracusa side of the bridge, a few steps from that bridge, at LATTERIA DI MAMA IABICA, recommended to me here by Jen Kalb, via SlowFood’s Osterie guide.
That evening, the restaurant played host to a large group of dressed-up Italians from the G7 summit, but we sat outside and service did not suffer in the least. Seemed like a popular spot for locals and we were happy with our dinner, but I was very sorry that I ordered the tuna, rather than the rabbit. (Imagine the I still remember my mistake, more than half a year later). The tuna was fine, just plain, and I had such memories of a rabbit in agrodolce that I had just swooned over on Salina. Never minding all that, I’d recommend a meal here; I think they have no website, but now bookable on TheFork.
If you don’t mind sharing the link to your AirB&B (if it’s rural), I could try to recommend restaurants within an easy drive…(assumption that you will have a car, perhaps wrong. (??). )
Thank you so much for all of this! We fly in and out of Catania & have a rental to get to our place in Scicli and, of course, to drive around the area.
I don’t know that we’ll be spending much time in Catania, but we have no set plans as of now.
Catania is a fascinating, beautiful city, but maybe not in the hot summer. Maybe will still be a bit green if you go now The baroque towns SW of Siracusa, the canyons (Patalica, Cassabile) and the big nature refuge (Vendicari) all have a lot of interest. Modica as well as Ragusa, Sciclli and Noto. The slowfood app is a great guide in this area to delicious non-Michelin level food and its even in English now. That will lead you to places that make the regional speciaties, which, inland from the coast, include a lot of rich pork pasta and main dish specialties and little pastries like scacci which are delicious. Its been two years since my most recent trip, here are some tips I reported.