I visited Told og Snaps for lunch today. Simply an excellent meal! I had the pickled herring w onions, capers and egg. Delicious! The herring was not as vinegary as my Aunt’s recipe so it wasn’t a direct comparison but it did take me back.
Then I had a fish of new potatoes w bacon and a sauce that seemed to based on crème fraiche. Another light and seemingly simple recipe that was a pleasure to eat. I really didn’t expect a really good restaurant this close to the touristy Nyhavn strip but it seems to be the real deal.
And I actually kind of like Nyhavn not despite the tourists (who am I to judge?) but because of the mix of locals and tourists. The other thing I like are the mini concerts every evening at Nyhavn and every afternoon (?) at Hojbro Plads. Moody Blues, Polka, Frank Sinatra, Suzanne Vega… you never know what music to expect!
The one thing that has shocked me is the price of everything! 280kr/$40US for a light lunch w one Tuborg Classic . $230US before taxes for a moderately nice room at the Admiral, more at 71 Nyhavn. 42kr/$6US for a cappuccino. 100kr/$14US for a 350ml/ 11 ounce bottle of Bacardi. 260kr/$35US for 3 kilos of laundry. folded. 32kr/$4.50 for a 1.25L bottle of still spring water at a grocery store.
Wow! And I thought the Washington DC area was expensive!
And American Spellcheck is not your friend if you are trying to enter Danish names!
It’s quite expensive to live in Copenhagen-only a few cities in the world can beat it (Oslo, Zürich & Tokyo come to my mind)
Glad you had a good time there.
We have Copenhagen Jazz festival the next two weeks that’s why you saw all that jazz music.
It’s every year in Copenhagen.
Ben Webster, the famous tenor saxophonist, and many many more jazz artists actually lived in Copenhagen because of the jazz music environment here.
He’s buried in Copenhagen.
So I broke down and bought a double cheeseburger at Gasoline Grill. Nice meal, but 145kr/$21US! Ok, I will stop the price mentions now! LOL!
And Jazz in Copenhagen?
Why, yes! I tried to download a short video of a trio at Cafe Bla Time but timed/sized out. They were good and drawing a good crowd.
Well, my culinary exploration just came to a sudden halt. I have had a scratchy throat for 2 days and this morning I was just exhausted, so out of an abundance of caution I got tested for Covid and came up positive. I was literally outside Schonnemann’s waiting for the results to come back before I went in. It was a 20 minute result time antigen test and I thought I knew it would be negative, but I am glad I waited.
So I get to spend the next several days in my hotel room, eating overpriced room service food.
Take the train to the modern art museum Louisiana just north of Copenhagen. Great art and an excellent restaurant overlooking the Oresund.
On the Stroget (walking street) there’s a lovely old restaurant Peder Oxe. Restaurant upstairs, cafe/pub downstairs.
In Fredericksburg Haven (park), in one of the old castle outbuildings, is Mielcke & Hurtigkarl. Descended from Hurtigkarl, founded by a famous Danish chef, his son is I think one of the proprietors. Lovely setting and fabulous food.
Lovely park and part of town. Sometimes you can see a giraffe neck from the zoo bob up and down in the distance. Family got married there and family grew up there with bomb shelters behind their beautiful apartment building.
Oh no! So bummed for you. I don’t normally dispense advice, particularly that of a medical nature, but I checked in with my husband, who is a medical professional. Outdoor transmission is rare, especially if you are properly masked (preferably an N95). I can envision you getting takeout and having a picnic and not putting anyone at risk. I think you can feel comfortable walking around and taking in the sights and you can wear a mask to mitigate any concerns of transmission.
Bottom line - I don’t want Covid to ruin this portion of your vacation. I’ve been enjoying your food reports and general observations (we just got back from Iceland, so we won’t feel sticker shock but thanks for the head’s up).
Having recently been in a similar situation wrt Covid I think even if there are no official rules anymore in Denmark once you are infected it is also good to follow the recommendations of the country you are visiting (which in case of Denmark recommends to self isolate and depending on your symptoms there are certain timeframes how to end the self isolation.) And yes, infections towards others outside is less likely (though not completely unlikely) but for example getting takeout food would require pick up some food most likely inside a shop or restaurant
Thank you all for your suggestions and your kind comments! I am going to isolate for another day, my symptoms changed but I still have a bit of a head cold so I will stay in the room. I think I will feel safe walking outdoors with a mask tomorrow but I will play those cards as they are dealt.
My usual last minute planning works well in low season, but not in Scandinavia in the Summer. My original plan was to take the DFDS ferry to Oslo Thursday but the price was sky high so I decided to explore more of Zealand and Scania, especially up to Hillerod, which I will probably try to see Tuesday if I feel that I am no risk to people near me on the train. But for outdoor walking with a mask, it sounds like Tivoli and Frederickshaven are on my list for tomorrow and maybe down the Stroget to see where Peder Oxe is. I still want to visit Krogs and find somewhere that sells salted licorice outdoors as well. The hot dogs Franske I will be able to find easily! LOL!
Let me see if I can include my rather amteurish video clip of the blues bar… https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPvk5wdOH8hZfqf2Jq7fsOdQPIEtxe-UBI0R7P6
That may actually have worked! Yea!
Now my world, this is the view from my room. Things could be worse!
Still on Iceland time so I’m up at 5 am, reading the news and HO. Your positive attitude and flexibility will surely turn this unfortunate turn of events into a memorable trip (nice view from your room!). Sounds like you’re feeling better.
(BTW, I get a 404 error when I try to view your video.)
Iceland is another country I really want to explore a bit, but I think I will plan it in advance instead of trying to make it up on the fly! LOL!
My last international trip pre-Covid (Cabo san Lucas doesn’t count!) was to Greece in a shoulder month (late Feb/early March) when there were very few tourists and it was great. The hiking paths were empty, the weather was cool and clear, people were happy to see an outsider and not tired of the tourists, yet. And the cafes had just opened up for the season. A week later Covid hit. Sorry, I am rambling. Too much time on my hands.
The house with the roses (?) and the huge fountain are in Lund, Scania. Very cool university town!
Rats, I thought the link to the Jazz bar would work, sorry!
I walked past this exact spot 1 hour ago between your hotel (Admiral) and the harbour.
It’s one of my favourite walks - I walk there 2-3 times a month.
I start at Osterport station and walk on the bridge across the train tracks over to Kastellet then down to Langelinije and along the harbour into Nyhavn.
Thanks for your nice photo of the harbour and opera house.
Hang in there! If you go to Frederikshaven, take a slight detour to the old Carlsberg Brewery to see the “Elephant Gate”. They no longer brew beer there, but the Carlsberg Laboratory is still functioning. Some seminal early work on protein chemistry was done there. Louis Pasteur was a consultant. The modern concept of “pH” was developed there.
