Oops. Late to the party thanks to my summer hols.
Very well-balanced. Bravo.
I’ll make sacrifices to the gods to make sure you have cool weather for your old geezer’s meal at Joséphine Chez Dumonet. And I’ll add a gratuitous observation for others: Joséphine’s street, rue Cherche Midi, is the best restaurant street in the 6th and perfect for visitors who want to play usually very risky restaurant roulette, wandering around and looking for a restaurant that looks good. Wine-centric Sauvage and veggie-centric Anicia (and, surprisingly, one of the best bouillabaisses in Paris) for modern French; Cantine du Troquet Cherche-Midi, Joséphine Chez Dumonet, and Le Petit Verdot for trad; Mamie Gâteaux salon de thé for a light lunch or afternoon tea; Crying Tiger for way above average Thai; Garçon ! for an eclectic and mostly modern menu (that includes one of the best versions of a croque monsieur that I’ve ever had) and a trendy clientele.
More useless observations. I used to loathe the once rather joyless Huîtrerie Régis but a change of ownership a few years ago has massively enlivened it and widened the menu. But still a quandary because I also like the similar Seulement Sea just a few minutes away on rue Lobineau… the choice usually depends on whether I am in the mood for lots of tourists at Régis or running into people I know at Seulement Sea. But not a quandary for you because Seulement Sea is closed on Monday.
Chez Alain Miam Miam. The lunchtime queues at both the stand in the Marché des Enfants Rouges and the sandwich shop around the corner on rue Charlot can be enormous. An hour or more wait is not uncommon but less common on Tue or Wed. Even so, best to arrive early (i.e. 11:30am) or late (2pm). But it’s easy to improvise on the rue Bretagne (which the food writers at Le Figaro once described as the “le nouveau Pays de Cocagne”/ the new land of plenty) and surrounding area. Not only the other deli counters (like Mmmozza for paninis and antipasta plates) and mini-restos in the Marche des Enfants Rouges but also Caractère de Cochon on rue Charlot @ r. Bretagne for very superior ham sandwiches, Maison Verot for a slice of award-winning pâté en croûte or lots of other takeout items for a little bench picnic in the nearby Square du Temple (great little park), or sit-down crêpes at Crêperie Gigi on rue Corderie (and an opportunity to explore the world of crepes beyond Breizh Café). And, for me, an obligatory afternoon “pause” in Bontemps pâtisserie/ salon de thé is a joy.
Since I’m a before-and-after kind of guy, I’d change dinner for lunch at Chez Michel or its sibling, the equally good Chez Casimir. The immediate neighbourhood is not exactly sparkling at night when the cast of louche characters that congregate around the Gare du Nord spread out.
Indra Cabrillo at Le Condesa is one of my more passionate chef crushes. Many Michelin-starred restaurants can be joyless and reverential but Cabrillo’s talent, charm, and personality makes Le Condessa a joy. And speaking of crushes, a strong recommendation for adding Amandine Chaignot’s Pouliche (which means filly in polite French and “babe” in slang). Very talented and a master of improvisation. Indeed the menu at Pouliche changes daily depending on what’s best at the market that day. Not a conventional menu but a sort of mini-tasting menu for the starters and then a limited choice of mains but she will take into account your wife’s no-no’s if you specify them when booking.
For your week in the 11th, also consider Le Collier de la Reine on rue Charlot in the Haut Marais/ upper 3rd. Excellent oysters and fruits de mer (as well as other items on the menu for your wife), buzzy vibe, trendy décor. But they can be a bit pushy in turning over tables so better to dine no earlier than 8:30pm—and the later, the better-- if you want a leisurely meal. Lots of possibilities for a before or an after in the neighbourhood. It’s challenging my allegiance to Istr.
Unless you are intimidated by hipness, you should also consider Le Grand Bain on street-art paradise rue Denoyez in Belleville just a short walk from Parmentier has a stunningly good price/ quality ratio. Other suggestions for less “significant” but enjoyable noshing to add more variety to your eating experience in or near the 11th, Marchon on rue Saint-Maur, neighbourhood hangout Café du Coin on rue Camille Desmoulins, the very new Brasserie Martin (a sibling of the also very good Brasserie Duvivier in the 2nd and Brasserie Bellanger in the 9th) on rue Saint-Ambroise for honest, well-priced, and “fait maison”/ made-from-scratch trad brasserie fare and a very enjoyable buzz.
Sorry for long-winded post. I’m bored waiting for a flight at Pisa airport.