A quick intro:
Promoted to a Michelin 2* since the last time I visited. The kitchen of this New York icon is currently under the helm of talented Chef Thomas Allen. At the tender age of only 22, Chef Allen ( who grew up in Canada! ) was a key member of the team that won the prestigious Bocuse d’Or USA cooking tournament in 2010 and placed 10th (out of 23) in the world during the subsequent final phase of this ‘World’s hardest chef competition‘ held in Lyon, France. He then went on to work under Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park, Thomas Keller at Per Se and finally onward to Paris and became sous chef at the 3* Le Meurice under Yannick Alléno.
Now, onto our meal:
For once, I am going to start off a review with a spoiler alert………The meal at this 2* was splendid and dazzling!.. imbued with strings of visual and taste wow factors. Thoroughly enjoyable in every aspects, the ‘total package’ of food, wine, atmosphere, service and value trumped the Michelin 3* meal we had at Le Bernardin….hands down……except the bread service!
First, the arrival:
Our dedicated lady server ‘Hope’ kicked off our dining experience with the biggest of smiles and friendliest of welcome! We were seated in a bright, airy, high ceiling, glass enclosed dining room with a view of the outdoor garden. This resplendent and conspicuous space lifted our spirit and mood on a dull, wet and rainy day.
Next, the culinary adventure:
To create our own individual 4 course condensed luncheon tasting menu, the six of us combined to pick the following picturesque and sensational dishes:
Appetizer - Eggs on Eggs on Eggs
Caviar, Poached Egg Yolk, Egg Custard, Dill, Onion and
Toasted Brioche ( Wow!! Truly Amazing! One of my all
time favorite first-bites! Perfectly balanced texture and
taste! )
First Course - Chilled Lobster Salad with Kiwi and Buttermilk
( Fresh and refreshing. Perfectly cooked lobster
nuggets )
- Sweet Corn Ravioli, glazed with Jamon Iberico and
** Celtuce**
( A simple yet stunning creation. The creamy sweet
corn filling interacts with the savory, umami packed
Iberico Ham to create wonderful flavor sensation )
Main Course - Heritage Pork cooked pink, Black Truffle Marmalade
** and Lovage**
( Perfectly cooked pieces of flavourful and juicy
meat. Bold and uber-delicious sauce )
- American Wagyu Ribeye with charred Eggplant, **
** Endives and Anchovy
( What a gorgeous and generous piece of top-
notched steak! Cooked perfectly rare as requested.
Tender and full of flavor. Sauce accompaniment
was complex and sublime. The addition of a touch
of chili-oil elevated the dish to another level……a
stroke of genius! )
Dessert - Cookies and Cream
( Wonderful flavor. Sadly, a touch on the overly-sweet
side. Otherwise exquisite! )
- Apple Beignet with Caramel and Spiced Wine
( I love anything ‘Apple’ and this yummy dessert made
my day! Piping hot and addictive! The combo of
crunchy/chewy shell together with the gooey lava apple
filling……so gooood! )
- Lemon Frozen Yoghurt with Mascarpone and sesame.
( Artfully presente. Bright, fresh and refreshing. Delish! )
Wine - 2019 Sylvaner, Albert Boxler, Alsace
( This is one of the reasons for my occasional dining at a
Michelin star establishment!. A rare encounter of a scarce
product. This wine came from a compact domain, the
winemaker practicing artisan precept and making classic
Alsace as complex as a great Burgundy! This was clearly
reflected in this great quality/price ratio wine.
- 2021 Gonzalez Bastia Naranjo, Valle de Maule, Chile
( First time encountering this grape varietal used in this
Rose/Orange wine. Unique floral pattern and taste profile.
Paired surprisingly well with the pork! )
What a memorable and incredible dining experience! If my memory serves me correct, this meal was more stimulating, imaginative and enjoyable than the one I had, when the kitchen was under the helm of Gabriel Kreuther. Apart from the food, the great, attentive service by our vivacious lady-server ‘ Hope ‘ definitely contributed to our overall enjoyment!
